Tips on aquiring/refurbishing lower steering shaft

[mattZ]

I just thought I would make a thread on repairing the lower steering shaft. During my search to find a replacement for mine, i realized that the only ones out there are aftermarket ones (about $135) or junkyard ones ($10-$20). I wasnt willing to pay that much for an aftermarket shaft, so I went searching at my local junkyard. Out of about 20 explorers, 3 had decent shafts left in them. I pulled the best one out of the 3 (no play in the joint area no matter how hard i worked at it).

I took it home and ripped off the torn boots, soaked the joint in Wd40 and cleaned out the crud. Next I packed it with grease and worked it in.

I realized i needed rubber boots, but couldnt find these online and wasnt willing to even ask my local dealership about them $$$. So I got an old bicycle inner tube and cleaned it up with alcohol. I was able to stretch it over the joint and put a thin strip of silicone under the ends. from there I used zip ties and got them really tight with pliers. (pic below)

Before I install the shaft, I am replacing the firewall boot (you may want to inspect it also). Once its on, I'm going to coat the new boots in PB blaster SILICONE (very important!!!) spray lube to elongate the life of the boots. Regular PB blaster will turn your rubber to mush.

Side note, I sanded down the aluminum joint housing and painted over it half for looks half because the aluminum was oxidizing.

I hope this helps anyone with lower steering shaft problems!! If someone is desperate for one, pm me because I will be heading to my local junkyard again soon and can grab one that you can either refurbish yourself or I can do it for you.

Keep in mind this is not going to be better than the aftermarket shaft, but for $14 and a few hours of time, it worth it to me!! looking to get a few years out of it.

 

[2000StreetRod]

good motivation post

Thank you for your post which motivates me to solve a similar problem. The boot on my steering shaft coupling was torn when I purchased my Sport about 5 years ago.

I searched for a replacement boot but was told by Ford it was only available by purchasing the entire coupling assembly (P/N 8L5Z-3B676-B) which currently costs $270.

I tried to find something similar (other vehicle steering boot, CV joint boot, industrial U joint boot, etc.) but failed. Please keep posting about how the bicycle tube holds up. My preference would be to find something I could install (maybe with two halves) that wouldn't require removing the shaft assembly.

 

[mattZ]

Thank you for your post which motivates me to solve a similar problem. The boot on my steering shaft coupling was torn when I purchased my Sport about 5 years ago.
View attachment 86340
I searched for a replacement boot but was told by Ford it was only available by purchasing the entire coupling assembly (P/N 8L5Z-3B676-B) which currently costs $270.
View attachment 86341
I tried to find something similar (other vehicle steering boot, CV joint boot, industrial U joint boot, etc.) but failed. Please keep posting about how the bicycle tube holds up. My preference would be to find something I could install (maybe with two halves) that wouldn't require removing the shaft assembly.

For sure! Ill keep posting updates. That looks pretty bad... do you have any play in your steering? Or does the joint casing wiggle at all if you try to move it by hand?

If you do try the bicycle tubing, try to find one that's a but larger than normal (try one from those beefy tires) I went to my local bicycle shop and just asked them for their trash. Haha.

I would also recommend taking it off and cleaning it out/re-greasing it. The homemade boot would be nice but cleaning out the rust and adding grease will extend the life of that o-so-expensive and rare piece.

It honestly was pretty easy to remove. I sprayed PB blaster (regular not silicone) on the upper and lower bolts and mid-shaft where you can see the telescoping part. Once you remove the lower bolt, a crow bar will get the bottom off. Then lossen the upper bolt and pry that also. If you pry from the fire wall, the telescoping part should break free and allow you to pull it out. Then you are free to go to town! Once it's off you can also check and see how worn out it is.

Sorry for the long response. Haha.

 

[sehaare]

great idea about the old inner tube. I'll file that away and I'm sure I use it someplace.

 

[mattZ]

Thank you for your post which motivates me to solve a similar problem. The boot on my steering shaft coupling was torn when I purchased my Sport about 5 years ago.
View attachment 86340
I searched for a replacement boot but was told by Ford it was only available by purchasing the entire coupling assembly (P/N 8L5Z-3B676-B) which currently costs $270.
View attachment 86341
I tried to find something similar (other vehicle steering boot, CV joint boot, industrial U joint boot, etc.) but failed. Please keep posting about how the bicycle tube holds up. My preference would be to find something I could install (maybe with two halves) that wouldn't require removing the shaft assembly.

Well I have the shaft installed and my steering is super tight. seems to be holding up so far. If you want to use the same technique, you can remove the lower bolt (can see it in your pic) and push the shaft up (it telescopes). Then you can try to install a inner tube boot. This may be difficult because it's hard to get to. Honestly not too hard to remove and install. About a 5 out of 10 in difficulty.

 

[mattZ]

Update! 3 years later and it's finally starting to get torn apart. I'm purchasing a doorman 614020 (2 of them). I'll update how they work with this shaft. Old junkyard shaft is still strong.

 

[CDW6212R]

Well done.

FYI, there were two shaft designs. The early 95-97 version has that larger joint/housing, and the later 98-01 uses a typical smaller u-joint design. I'm not sure of one is any better than the other, the later is just smaller.

 

[Turdle]

Why not use a cut down shock absorber boot?

I think the dorman part 614-020 is for the steering rack ends, and may be of a stiffer, more plastic like material.

 

[mattZ]

Why not use a cut down shock absorber boot?

I think the dorman part 614-020 is for the steering rack ends, and may be of a stiffer, more plastic like material.

That is a good idea. Have you tried this over the larger 95-97 models?
I may just swing by my local junkyard and grab a couple.

 

[CDW6212R]

That's smart Jon, shock boots are easy to come by, just gotta find the right size.

 

[mattZ]

I'll be putting these on over the weekend. They are more flexible and rubber like than a hard plastic. Since this is the only lower steering shaft I could find at my junkyards, I'm doing my best to make it last.

 

[mattZ]

Finally got around to it. These were very rubbery and flexible. Worked surprisingly well.i should be able to get quite a few more years out of it now.

 

[410Fortune]

Nice find! is that 614-020 or 614-029 hard to tell in pic

 

[mattZ]

Nice find! is that 614-020 or 614-029 hard to tell in pic

Its the doorman 614020. I slid it down from the top, but if I could re do it, I would cut it in half and slide it on from both sides. Then I would overlap them in the middle and tighten a zip tie on it. Would have been a lot easier. Haha.

 

[CDW6212R]

Its the doorman 614020. I slid it down from the top, but if I could re do it, I would cut it in half and slide it on from both sides. Then I would overlap them in the middle and tighten a zip tie on it. Would have been a lot easier. Haha.

That, or find a plastic pipe that just fits over the joint, and use a piece of that inside the boot, to install it.