To 306 or not to 306? That is the question

[hinojosajc]

I have a 97 Xplorer eddie bauer package V8 5.0L that has 189000 miles.
I got at the auction for under $1000, and the body and interior are in really good shape.
But now, the engine is making a knocking noise, don't know if its the bottom end or top end.
I had some people take a look at it and told me it was the bottom and others, the top.
I have good oil pressure, engine runs with no problem.
I have found rebuild kit for $800 for the bottom. but also found a short block 306 for $900, which means all I have to do is transfer some parts of the old 302 engine to the new 306 block which comes with new connecting rods, pistons and pistons rings.
The only issue i see is that the 306 is advertise for 95 mustangs.
I email the website and asked if it worked for a Explorer and they told me that all I need is to use my own camshaft.
Any advise???

 

[2000StreetRod]

external balance

The Mustang engine crankshaft is probably designed for 28 inch/ounce external balance while the Explorer engine is designed for 50 inch/ounce external balance. You could use a Mustang flexplate but finding a 28 inch/ounce harmonic balancer with a trigger wheel and the correct diameter serpentine pulley will be very difficult.

 

[ssp.interceptor]

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[ssp.interceptor]

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[hinojosajc]

It would've help if I put more info about the New engine.
Its only a Short Block with new crank, rods, bearings, pistons and piston rings.
everything else has to be transfer from the old engine.
It did say it was for 81 to 95 Stang.

@ ssp.interceptor:
I am a full time student at Lincoln Tech school, so money is limited. And the Xplorer is also my only car for now. I drive 75% highway 25% street so
the Mod for off road will have to wait.
I can get a complete motor at the junk yard for $300 with no warranty but no way of knowing if its a good or bad engine. don't want to risk it or waste money. Also not that many 5.0L in good shape around here.

 

[hinojosajc]

Here is what I found about the sale:

Block: .030 over TREperformance roller 302 block
Crank: TREperformance production crankshaft, thermal cleaned, shot-peened, Magna Fluxed, precision ground, oil scooped and chamfered
Rods: Factory forgings 5.09" (CNC Diamond resized and fitted with ARP Wave Loc
Bearings: king rod/main
Pistons: Speed-Pro skirt coated hypereutectic

Everything else would have to be purchase.

 

[Turdle]

Are you sure the noise isn't just an exhaust leak? This is the most common problem with these ya know--( cracked header)

 

[ssp.interceptor]

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[hinojosajc]

Are you sure the noise isn't just an exhaust leak? This is the most common problem with these ya know--( cracked header)

I know I said I'm a student @ Lincoln Tech but even so, I know the difference... LOL...
No, really, its not the exhaust leak or cracked header. I checked.
Its down to a bad Rod or a bad Rod Bearing.

 

[ssp.interceptor]

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[hinojosajc]

I looked at the pistons the TRE shortblock comes with and it looks like you'll actually have LESS compression with them than stock. GT40 head are 62-64cc stock so you'll be in the 8.5-8.8:1 range with those pistons. I dunno fella... either way, if your SURE it's the rods and your going to change it out, your in for a choir. I don't know how good your wrenching skills are but I wouldn't plan on it being just a weekend project if it's your first time.

Well, the engine block that i was looking at is no longer available, so now I need to look for other options.
Its not that I don't know what I am doing, its that I just did not wanted to pay $900 for a kit if I could pay about $1000 for an machined block with new parts in it.

 

[hinojosajc]

Well, the engine block that i was looking at is no longer available, so now I need to look for other options.
Its not that I don't know what I am doing, its that I just did not wanted to pay $900 for a kit if I could pay about $1000 for an machined block with new parts in it.

Oh, and also, I wanted to upgrade what I could if I was going to already take out the engine and work on it.