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Top transmission bolts

Gregorywade

Member
Joined
January 4, 2022
Messages
19
Reaction score
13
City, State
Barnardsville
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Sport
Hello!

I’m removing the engine from 1994 Ford Explorer but cannot figure out how to remove the top 4 bolts. Any guidance or tricks, please? Thank you!!
 



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There is a trap door under the console, or top of trans hump if you have short console. remove it, then pull carpet back over trans hump. Trap door cover is held with 8 mm bolts This new opening will help.
 












or you can remove the transmission crossmember and let the trans and t case hang down, then with a 24-36" extension wobbly and socket with an impact you can make very short work of all the top bolts...including the bellhousing and dipstick retainer bolt
 












Years and years ago I used to remove the upper intake then climb up over the engine with my knees on the radiator support and attack those top bolts with a wrench.......... HAHAHAHAHAHA
oh how times have changed. My knees hurt just thinking about doing that anymore. Now I use extensions and a dewalt impact........ I have dropped probably 50-75 transmissions on these suckers.....

Going through the floor (removing seats, console and pull carpet back) is an excellent way to get at the top T case bolts
If I am crushing the truck I will just sawzall or grinder the floor open enough to get at all the trans bolts :)
 






Years and years ago I used to remove the upper intake then climb up over the engine with my knees on the radiator support and attack those top bolts with a wrench.......... HAHAHAHAHAHA
oh how times have changed. My knees hurt just thinking about doing that anymore. Now I use extensions and a dewalt impact........ I have dropped probably 50-75 transmissions on these suckers.....

Going through the floor (removing seats, console and pull carpet back) is an excellent way to get at the top T case bolts
If I am crushing the truck I will just sawzall or grinder the floor open enough to get at all the trans bolts :)
Definitely some tight areas in the explorers! I think I’m gonna opt for the trap door method. I haven’t looked at it yet but didn’t realize I need to remove the seats too. Even still, it’s a good option.
I’m pulling the engine in order to fix a snapped exhaust manifold bolt and while I’m at it I’ll do a gasket kit to stop some of the leaks. It has 245K on it but I’m the second owner. It’s a 2 door sport which was well taken care of. No rust at all and a very nice interior. Any other suggestions I should do while I have the engine removed? I’m not wanting to do a
5AE546A6-F67A-4F0A-A5D8-AFD4257F0F1C.jpeg
full rebuild or anything like that. Not sure how much more money I should invest in it. Still need to figure out why the front hubs aren’t locking then tackle the power windows ( someone installed a new motor on the drivers side but it still won’t work the window up an down).
5AE546A6-F67A-4F0A-A5D8-AFD4257F0F1C.jpeg
 






That's one great-looking "Exploder!" And one worthy of your time and money to personalize. Speaking from years of experience doing what you have in mind to do, carefully inspect all of the internals and consider re-ringing and new bearings along with a quality reseal. Hopefully, you won't have enough cylinder wear to require new pistons and you can stay within budget. There is not too much worse than investing time and money to only have to do something twice.
 






or you can remove the transmission crossmember and let the trans and t case hang down, then with a 24-36" extension wobbly and socket with an impact you can make very short work of all the top bolts...including the bellhousing and dipstick retainer bolt
That's the way I use to do it. I don't think you have to drop the crossmember, but it's been awhile since I done a 2.9L. If I remember correctly I used 30" of extensions, a swivel and an impact.
 


















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