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Torsion Bar Adjusters (kevlar pad replacement?)

nscarnati

Active Member
Joined
July 13, 2007
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City, State
Mechanicsburg, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
'98 XLT SOHC
My Torsion Bar Adjusters pads are worn out, creating noise every time I hit a bump.

I can't fathom paying $45 per adjuster from fast parts network (or the $75 each from the dealer) to just get that tiny piece of kevlar padding since the adjuster itself is fine

I've read through dozens of torsion bar threads where people have thought about or were going to try replacing the kevlar pads themselves, or else use delrin or something in its place, but no one posted any results.

Has anyone found a way to replace the padding (either buying kevlar padding or bulk kevlar), or using another material?
 



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Have you checked on the 98-01 pad, or the 95-97 key(which has the kevlar on it)? I believe that it is very rare for any 98-01 truck to have the better design wear out. The 98-01's are made to allow the kevlar insert to be replaced, it sets up into the frame pocket. I think all four of mine are good. Regards,
 






Have you checked on the 98-01 pad, or the 95-97 key(which has the kevlar on it)? I believe that it is very rare for any 98-01 truck to have the better design wear out. The 98-01's are made to allow the kevlar insert to be replaced, it sets up into the frame pocket. I think all four of mine are good. Regards,


Are you saying you can get just the kevlar pad somewhere? Because that's what I want, but I can't find the pads anywhere, and everyone says you have to replace the entire adjuster
 






The 95-97 trucks have the kevlar on the adjuster, many here have posted pictures showing how bad those get. We 98-01 owners have the isolation material surrounding a pad/block which is above the adjuster. The pocket in the frame is a rectangle, here is a picture with the cover plate removed. I think I had checked on those at one time and they were just over $30 each. Search for torsion bar isolator. Check yours first, they should not be bad.

99Torsionbarisolator.JPG
 






Problem is you cannot convert the 95-97 style frame and t basr brackets easily to use the 98+ style

My reasearch found that not only is this a kevlar piece it is also aramid fibers and epoxy.
I was un able to find any material at all, meaning I would call (nationwide fabric, hobby, auto parts, plastics stores) around and ask for Kevlar material, explain what I was looking for and why, and people thought I was nuts, no idea what I was looking for.
I cannot believe with teh # of these trucks on the road (ranger edge, Sport Trac and Explorer) the aftermarket does not make a replacement for a part that is made to wear out. I believe because it is only 95-97 and they are now 10+ years old, nobody ever even bothers.....
the kevlar pads on my truck were not worn too bad actually, but they were completely smooshed, they slid out of the bracket and adjsuter area and were hanging off to the side, so it was metal on metal anyway

Instead of spending $40 each for new adjusters that will wear out again in 2-3 years or sooner I decided to leave my truck metal on metal, I cleaned both surfaces and placed a bit of wheel bearing grease in there.

I now have minimal noises compared to before, I personaly didnt spend the $$ because I plan to ditch the t bars and go with some coilover shocks up front
I hate torsion bars

Usually I love the way Ford does things, so easy to work on, straight forward, makes good sense, etc but every once in a while.....something they do just makes you go

hmmmmmm?

I guess nobody's perfect! hahaha
 






The 95-97 trucks have the kevlar on the adjuster, many here have posted pictures showing how bad those get. We 98-01 owners have the isolation material surrounding a pad(I haven't had one out) which is above the adjuster. The pocket in the frame is a rectangle, here is a picture with the cover plate removed. I think I had checked on those at one time and they were just over $30 each. Search for torsion bar isolator. Check yours first, they should not be bad.

Thanks - that picture's excellent.

Mine ex has 175k miles, and the isolators or pads have never been replaced, so i'm thinking that's where a lot of my front end clunk is coming from. I've already replaced the balls joints, control arm bushings, etc which did not get rid of the clunk when going over bumps, so the torsion bar pads/isolators seemed like the next logical replacement since a lot of people complained about clunk coming from them

Thanks for clarrifying the 97 vs 98 difference - which part of the picture is the isolator? The orange thing or the little green things around it?
 






I know Jamie, but you have that first 95-97 design, unlike the picture above. That's a big reason why I have told people looking for an Explorer to hunt a 98-01 model. Major improvements like this are worth having, skipping the early trucks.
 






Thanks - that picture's excellent.

Mine ex has 175k miles, and the isolators or pads have never been replaced, so i'm thinking that's where a lot of my front end clunk is coming from. I've already replaced the balls joints, control arm bushings, etc which did not get rid of the clunk when going over bumps, so the torsion bar pads/isolators seemed like the next logical replacement since a lot of people complained about clunk coming from them

Thanks for clarrifying the 97 vs 98 difference - which part of the picture is the isolator? The orange thing or the little green things around it?

The isolator is that rusty metal chunk, the blue/green will be the isolation material. it may fall out, mine in my 98 didn't, or pry out.

Truly though that should be the last thing I'd suspect for noises(clunks). Look hard at the suspension points, the driveshafts, the transmission mounts etc. Look for loose bolts, grease or oil splattering/leaking. I'd bet on anything else before those isolators.
 






The isolator is that rusty metal chunk, the blue/green will be the isolation material. it may fall out, mine in my 98 didn't, or pry out.

Truly though that should be the last thing I'd suspect for noises(clunks). Look hard at the suspension points, the driveshafts, the transmission mounts etc. Look for loose bolts, grease or oil splattering/leaking. I'd bet on anything else before those isolators.

Thanks for the help. I'll be spending Thanksgiving under the truck, yet again looking for the source of the mysterious clunk.
 






Check your control arm bushings. The UCA bushings on my '99 Sport were shot and in dry, hot weather they sounded HORRIBLE.

Also grease your sway bar endlinks
 






Check your control arm bushings. The UCA bushings on my '99 Sport were shot and in dry, hot weather they sounded HORRIBLE.

Also grease your sway bar endlinks

Thanks - the lowers were already replaced, I'll check the uppers though
 






The 95-97 trucks have the kevlar on the adjuster, many here have posted pictures showing how bad those get. We 98-01 owners have the isolation material surrounding a pad/block which is above the adjuster. The pocket in the frame is a rectangle, here is a picture with the cover plate removed. I think I had checked on those at one time and they were just over $30 each. Search for torsion bar isolator. Check yours first, they should not be bad.

View attachment 43558
I replaced My pads today the blue ones crumbled
The new pads are Made of a hard rubber type material
What a pain in the butt
I am aware this is a old thread
 






My original blue isolator pads were a very hard rubber too. I wonder why some disintegrated far earlier than others. I need to look at my other trucks and see how the are doing.
 






My original blue isolator pads were a very hard rubber too. I wonder why some disintegrated far earlier than others. I need to look at my other trucks and see how the are doing.

received_476957424359511.jpeg received_464283339002139.jpeg
 












No movement just a crumbling pad
 


















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