trans pan gasket help please | Ford Explorer Forums

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trans pan gasket help please

donalds

Elite Explorer
Joined
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Location
Stem
City, State
Nc
Year, Model & Trim Level
1999 ford explorer sohc
help with ford gasket
 



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yes you can use it even without the metal pucks, the pucks are to keep you from over torquing the pan bolts and distort the pan
So don't over torque the bolts, 100 inch pounds should be just fine.
You can use some gasket tack to hold things in place, but it is not needed as you can use the bolts to make sure everything is lined up properly before final torque
You can even use a light coat of rtv on both sides of the gasket in order to ensure it does not leak and to help make up for any imperfections in the gasket, trans body or pan.

the cork gasket is not the best, I prefer the rubber ones with the pin, but you gotta use what you have.
If you go buy a new wix filter for your 5r55e it will also come with a new gasket, another option for you

Bottom line is I would NOT be afraid to run that Ford gasket, just do not over tighten, go slowly torque all the bolts evenly it does not take much to make a good seal.......100 inch pounds will snug them up nicely. You will not blow out the gasket, it is sandwiched between two flat metal surfaces, it does not pinch it in the small area's and try to squeeze it out... you are not in danger there.
 






Thanks I got a motorcraft filter with the gasket

We will see if it leaks lol
 






no leaks no leaks no leaks doing a little chant
 






I'm taking a break for a min 90 f out
Gasket is a really nice gasket for being cork
The cat came of nicely so that's a plus
I put the magnet from my original pan in this one so two magnets the fluid that came out looks new I'm gonna replace it with Mercon v supertech Wal-Mart brand says ford aproved
 






cat came out? just to replace the pan and filter? I have always managed to get the pan around the exhaust on these trucks, if you need a little extra clearance then you can remove the two trans mount nuts and lift the trans and t case 1.5" until it rubs the floorboard
 






Just makes it easier plus I got the heat shield that's always missing and not having the cat made it so easy to install
 






So I finished her up I used a very small amount of gasket tack on the pan side then I used a little Vaseline on the transmission side then wiped off most of it only need a little
torque to 90inch pound's 100 just felt like to much when I was using the torque wrench I started at 40in lb and went up ten inch pounds at a time got to 90 and felt like it was good

Do I need to torque them again or is it good ?

Here is some pictures just for fun

20190706_164207.jpg


20190706_164325.jpg


20190706_164247.jpg
 






well done! clean install is key to no leaks

leave it alone, a steel bolt into aluminum trans housing = if its tight, its tight!

Now the real fun filling the system
 






I pumped the fluid out through the dip stick tube
Then dropped the pan
put what was in the pan in the jug
came out to exactly a gallon so I put a gallon of new merk v
I took it on a drive to the dump and check the dipstick
And did not spill a drop while I was doing this whole job
A throw away kitty litter box is what I used for a drip pan then filled it with my basement trash then took it to the dump no mess
 






Well done. I've used many cork gaskets over the years, starting in 1980 with intake end gaskets. We just avoid them because they do harden etc, over a few years time. At Subaru in 1988 I watched countless valve cover gaskets go on with a layer of RTV or gasket maker on them, both sides. That was regular dealership protocol by mechanics then.

I reused the pan gasket for my 99 5R55E in 2006 with 75,450 miles. I don't recall it being compressed cork, but I'll find out soon. Hopefully there is a rubber or better gasket available, but I can make any gasket work if I have to.

Use just your wrist to tighten that kind of small bolt, one hand on a short ratchet should not be able to over tighten them. That works on VC's too, or all 5/16" small bolts.
 






It seems like a rubberized cork to me
 






Yeah, that's the newest version I've noticed. I wonder why they used cork at all after rubber became common? Cork is good for a wine bottle, but I don't see any other good use for it.
 






I'm not gonna spend $30 on a gasket and then not use it lol:):)
 






Absolutely.

I bought a reusable thermostat gasket a year or so back, and didn't realize until later it was for a Chevy V8. I gave over $15 for it, figuring I could use it forever for my nicest SBF engine. I might have to sell it if I can't make it work, but it only has the one large hole, unlike SBF's that have two(the bypass hole also).
 






Next time in 30k miles im gonna get the micro felt fiber gasket from Felpro or a rubber one from Felpro but I have to say the ford gasket is nice like a rubberized type deal the original cork lasted two hundred thousand miles hand was still leaks. Free
 






Felpro has forever been the gasket standard, I'll look for those when I get to my assembly. I got a new deeper($) pan a while back, and for the cost it came with bolts, but no gasket.:confused:
 






I like the factory hardware not that their is anything wrong with your new stuff
What I harvested the pan from my buddy's sport shoc and he beat the crap out of that truck

Anyways I got the hardware with the pan I put the bolts in a container with mineral spirits
For a couple days came out like new
 






any huge red puddles?

LMFAO

If no then you did good!!
 



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There has been lot of discussion regarding gasket materials and pan installation techniques. The biggest variable is the flatness of the pan rails. If they are bent from hitting something, or from some ham-fisted mechanic over-tightening the retaining bolts, you will have leaks. ATF is insidious stuff. The tiniest imperfections can result in leaks. IMO the more rubber-like gaskets work better than cork gaskets, because cork gaskets compressor over time and require addition tightening of the pan retaining bolts to prevent leaks. If you do everything right and there was no preexisting damage to the pan rails sealant should not be necessary to use in the trans pan to prevent leaking. A straight edge and a flashlight are useful tools to check the pan rails for damage. If you find your pan rail is bent I suggest you replace it with a new one (better yet a cast aluminum one).
 






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