Solved Transfer Case 4x4 Issue

[J_C]

When all else fails I just use a moly, lithium based grease on something like that. Ford seems to have used lithium grease, even on applications where a more expensive silicone grease would have been more appropriate, so the compatibility odds are higher, unless you clean out all old grease then you are starting from scratch again and can use whatever you want.

 

[410Fortune]

Any good water repelling grease will work white lithium would work good there

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Looks like there used to be a gasket where the shift motor case meets the transfer case so I already did some RTV just to be sure but I'll smear some grease on the selector shaft too

Any good water repelling grease will work white lithium would work good there

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Got the sensors and everything connected, shift motor does turn, but the GEM is still doing the clicking noise and locks me out of 4 low. There aren't even any codes stored in the PCM or GEM though, before I had the 4x4L circuit stuck open code but now there's nothing. I'm at a total loss.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Just thought to check live sensor data, I have absolutely no speed sensor input, either from the transfer case sensors, rear diff speed sensor, or wheel speed sensors. Transfer case keeps trying to throw itself in 4 wheel drive, I think because it's not getting any input it doesn't know what to do.

 

[Mbrooks420]

What makes you think
It’s trying to “throw itself in 4wd”? With no inputs it should fault, and only give 2wd.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

What makes you think
It’s trying to “throw itself in 4wd”? With no inputs it should fault, and only give 2wd.

It binds when making sharp turns like it always does in 4high

 

[Mbrooks420]

Something might be damaged inside the case.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Something might be damaged inside the case.

And that's well and good, I'm more concerned about why I have no speed readings on anything, it's even affecting my ABS still, if I brake the ABS locks up

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

I'm not trying to sound rude or anything and I appreciate the input, but the ABS issue started after my mechanic did the hubs and wheel speed sensor, the binding issue has been happening since we put bigger tires on, and generally only happens when you turn the tires to the absolute most they'll turn.

 

[J_C]

There are several topics on how to troubleshoot ABS, but if this is a result of an improper repair by the mechanic, why isn't s/he tasked with fixing it?

You can either measure for AC voltage at the ABS module, for each speed sensor, or at each speed sensor connector (either way, spinning the wheel, does not require the vehicle to be powered on) or use a scan tool capable of Ford specific codes, for example an ELM327 based dongle and forscan app on a phone/tablet/laptop/etc. while driving to cause the ABS activation event.

Recently there was even a topic where the sensor connector just wasn't plugged in all the way. It's in an awkward to see location.

Abs light after hub job

I got an ABS light after doing the driver side hub on my 2000 explorer. Everything drove fine before except for extreme hub noise. So when it was nice decided to take on the challenge, rusty as hell and complicated. Abs cord is plugged into the sensor that was my first guess what else could it be?

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Mbrooks420]

I'm not trying to sound rude or anything and I appreciate the input, but the ABS issue started after my mechanic did the hubs and wheel speed sensor, the binding issue has been happening since we put bigger tires on, and generally only happens when you turn the tires to the absolute most they'll turn.

If your abs works the sensors are obvious reporting data.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

There are several topics on how to troubleshoot ABS, but if this is a result of an improper repair by the mechanic, why isn't s/he tasked with fixing it?

You can either measure for AC voltage at the ABS module, for each speed sensor, or at each speed sensor connector (either way, spinning the wheel, does not require the vehicle to be powered on) or use a scan tool capable of Ford specific codes, for example an ELM327 based dongle and forscan app on a phone/tablet/laptop/etc. while driving to cause the ABS activation event.

Recently there was even a topic where the sensor connector just wasn't plugged in all the way. It's in an awkward to see location.

Abs light after hub job

I got an ABS light after doing the driver side hub on my 2000 explorer. Everything drove fine before except for extreme hub noise. So when it was nice decided to take on the challenge, rusty as hell and complicated. Abs cord is plugged into the sensor that was my first guess what else could it be?

www.explorerforum.com

My mechanic is blaming my wiring, since I redid the shift motor harness he refuses to work on anything electrical saying it's a liability issue. I'm think you may be right about one of the ABS speed sensors being off and possibly it's just grounding out and messing with anything else loosely connect to it. I'll tear into it when I get home and see what I can find, it's just weird I don't have any codes or ABS light or anything.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

If your abs works the sensors are obvious reporting data.

Yeah but it's like it's oversensitive, if I just tap the brakes at 2mph it flips out and trips the ABS to come on. I'll post some screenshots of the live data when I get home.

 

[Mbrooks420]

Maybe you’re having an issue with your scanner. Sounds very much like a faulty wheel speed sensor.

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Maybe you’re having an issue with your scanner. Sounds very much like a faulty wheel speed sensor.

For some reason all my speed sensors read now, wheel speed sensors and rear diff speed sensors were all synced exactly. The rear output shaft is about 1mph off from the VSS and the front output shaft sensor is dead. Guess I found my issue, brand new sensor though so I guess my splice could be messed up.

 

[410Fortune]

Could be!

Once the computer goes into the p0500
Mode (no vss signal) it doesn’t think you are moving it can take it a minute to recognize the vss signal again once it is restored.

The stupid gem module controlling the t case can also get wonky with these signals sometimes a good battery disconnect for a few
Minutes can reset the system

Also when a t case gets stuck in low or high especially after working on or with the shift motor the shift motor armature itself might need a slight adjustment (the three little toed screws) to get it back into range into a position it can recognize so it can then start shifting again

You must have a vss signal if you want low range shift to work and many many other things to work again

I would check that dudes wiring

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

4 high definitely engages, no 4 low though, it's like it won't even try to engage, but still no error codes for GEM or PCM. The overdrive light also blinks several times then goes out after driving for a little while.

 

[410Fortune]

Ahhhh the flashing od light

Check manufacture specific codes in pcm
Likely speed sensor issue still

 

[ThatOneGuy99]

Ahhhh the flashing od light

Check manufacture specific codes in pcm
Likely speed sensor issue still

No codes but I agree with you on that, just wanted to make sure the sensor issue could be causing the flashing OD light. Also when I put the shift motor back on the range selector shaft lines up with the shift motor but the shift motor mounting bolts don't line up with the transfer case, I can move it to line up but it feels like it's under tension. Did I miss an adjustment or something?