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v8 + explorer= ?

sweet then I am not alone!

Oh and it IS possible to put a fully dressed 5.0L block back up ontot eh 33" tire by yourself after it toppled over, because your dad is coming home and your engine is in his barn!! I think I tore something LOL but at least dad was happy-ish

Harbor Freight has cheapo hydraulic rams that work well
 



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Not trying to steal the topic but This seems to be the place all the Ford SB nuts are at. I have a 1986 F-150 complete with a 5 speed that I want to go in my explorer. Question is I remember searching awhile back about a book telling you everything you need to know about wiring in the 5.0 into the 4.0 harness. Sound familar to anyone? Would it work with the setup I have or should I Just take everything out of the truck? Also is this a bad year of 5.0 to be working with? And for now I will prob just be putting in a c6 just to get it going but in the future I would like overdrive. So i guess AOD would be my best option? And I think it might be easier and cheaper to just use the transfer case thats in the F150. Has anyone done that or do you guys run the borg warner that comes in the explorers. Thanks for the help
 






your conversion you speak of has been done 10000 times

The OHV 4.0L in your explorer makes about the same power as that F-150 5.0L, so dont expect miracles

it can be done, yes, use everything from the F-150 since you already have it, wiring, computer, trans, t case, etc

Otherwise the BEST way to get a 5.0L into your explorer is to start with a 5.0L Explorer (96-01) it will save you ALOT of work

have you tried searching?
 






since you mentioned hp .....how much hp would that remanufactured jasper engine (91-94) produce ?? i hope it's more than the first gen 4.0 :shifty_ey lol ( i bet it's got at least the same amount of torque) .... also what was the rated hp of the 96 model explorers with v8's?


...thanks also .... i'll check into the rams at harbor freight.
 






96+ are Rated at something like 210hp and 230tq maybe. 4.0 is something like... I dont know i want to say 160 and 100 respectively but that doesn't sound right.

That's with the restrictive factory cam. The jasper I think will have a more aggresive cam.
 






Fuel Injection can be tuned more percisely than a carb to get the perfect air to fuel mixture. A C4 would work nice in it with a manual valve body!! just my 2 cents
 






4.0L OHV is 165 HP and 235 ft lbs if memory serves
 






Damn that's way more than I thought.
 






yeah the 4.0 is no slouch, just the tranny behind it is :)
Of course trying to move a 4 door explorer is alot different then a BII, about #1200 different
 






By no means would that 302 go in stock so no worries about hp numbers lol. I did get rumor of a complete but totaled 96 or newer explorer at the local junk yard that has a 302 . I think ill sell the truck and go see if he will sell me that. That way I can just take engine tranny transfer case and all the wiring as one.
 






that's what I will do on any future swaps.

Just jeep in mind. If you do 4wd the tcase from those Explorers won't work.
 






on the weight part of the explorer and bII 's ...hard to understand that the explorer is such a heavy truck for it's size....one would think that the 2 would be about the same .

update ...still in the process on looking at the parts...been working and trying to get time .....if i have to i'll heev that motor out of the shop on a hand truck and wheel it up to the house where i can work on it properlly lol.
 












They came with an AWD t case. Means it's running all the time.

For one thing, this system sucks. Robs horsepower and gas mileage by running all four wheels, all the time.

For another thing. I don't think the first gen front suspensinoon is designed to handle that kind of full time duty. Would put all kinds of stress on your front end and inevitably grenade the autolocking hubs on the front and maybe the D35 as well.

You can
A. Buy the adapter from Advance adapter for 500$ that mates the aod style(if that's what you go with) to the BW1354 tcase that is currently in your truck.(don't forget the mandatory trans teardown required to install the output shaft that comes with the adapter. Another 500$ easy.) It is adequet for most street vehicle that will see light to moderate 4x4 action.

B. Use a BW4406 tcase from late 90's f150's and excursions. Very stout. This is what most second gen guys switch to when they're tired of the AWD. Problem is, it's f-ing huge. We still haven't found out if it will work for a first gen.


C. I am still investigating the possibilty of using a BW1356. Which bold strait to the aod style trans.
 






Manual BW1356 - Bottom view
BW1356.jpg

BW1356 beside Electric BW1354
BW1356w1354copy.jpg

BW1356 in my Ex. It WILL fit - Barely w/2" body lift
1356CASE.jpg
 






I may use the 1356 yet.

Since it's and older case, do you think the electric shift will hook up to my first gen wiring?
 






I could be wrong but I think the motor and wiring is almost if not the same. It should plug right into your existing connector.
Part numbers are close for those on each model. Each is listed as round plug/7 pins.
 






that's what I was thinking from looking at a replacement motor at an online parts store.

And I justfound one for sale cheaper than the 4406 I was looking at.

Almost seals the deal.
 









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'89 - '96 F150's and Bronco's, Slip yoke/fixed flange respectively
'87 - '89 Bronco w/ rear fixed yoke
'85ish - '87 BW1345 (weaker)
Early '80's use NP208

1) One with a fixed yoke would be easiest to use as it will just bolt up to your driveshaft

2) A slip yoke will work but isn't the greatest offroad flexing

3) A fixed flange is easier to find than fixed yoke, is great for offroad but will need a slight mod to use with your current driveshaft flange. The bolt holes are drilled at a wider diameter than our Ex's but they mate together perfectly. I mated them together, clamped them, marked for new holes, drilled and tapped the new holes for driveshaft bolts. Done.
 






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