Vibration when braking

[MM0126]

I have a 1994 xlt that gives off a vibration under braking. Brake pedal feels fine. I have plenty of padding left on the pads and the rotars feel smooth (Front). The vibration stops as soon as I lift off the brake and does not occur under any other driving conditions. The "thumping" slows down as the car slows down. The sound seems to be comming from the front end.

Thanks to all who reply.
This is my first post
MM0126@aol.com

 

[shorty_2low]

its your rotors, so get new ones! go to napa get a set and take 2-3 hours and fix it

 

[MM0126]

Thanks for the info...I'll give it a look again!

 

[410Fortune]

Wow! thats amazing. Rotors are the problem right off the bat?

I would also look at a few other things before I drop $100 for rotors, $40 for wheel bearings, and grease seals. And if you are in there you mine as well plan on new pads...another $30-50. So it can get expensice fast. Some simple diagnosis / visual inspection should be done first.

The slide pins need to be cleaned and greased properly.

You need to make sure the anti-rattle clips are installed on all 4 front pads

You also should check the condition of your radius arm bushings, if they are old the whole front end will move back and forth when you brake

The wheel bearings should be checked from looseness as well.

If an anti rattle clip is missing this is your problem.
The caliper slide pins get dirty and can also cause a vibration under braking.

Good luck!

 

[Kadarom Douhrek]

Also, if it is the rotors it's usually a lot cheaper to get them turned instead of just replacing them.

 

[rocco123]

Just change the rotors out and be done with it. Don't turn the spindle nut without removing the key.

 

[410Fortune]

what?

Okay so lets say he goes out and spends $100 for new rotors and grease seals. Re-packs his old wheel bearings and gets it all installed properly. Assuming he already has a torque wrench and the correct spindle nut tool. If you've got the caliper off you mine as well replace the brake pads, so thats another $50.

Then he's driving the truck and the vibration is still there because it is actually being caused by worn ball joints or radius arm bushings, how can you justify that advise you are giving? That $200 he just spent and those 2 hours of labor could have been used towards solving the real problem.

Diagnose the problem, dont throw money at it........

That is just amazing that you guys can jump to conclusions like that...... Oh vibration under braking = rotors?

that just doesnt make sense...there are about 30 other things that can cause a vibration like that...... a warped rotor wont always vibrate either.....especially when going slow.........


Start with the basics.....

When were the brakes last replaced? How mnay miles are on them? Who did the work?

When does the vibration happen? Do you feel it in the brake pedal or in the steering wheel?

If you feel like dropping a couple hundered bucks on new rotors go for it, but if the vibration is still there whenyou are done, then what? Throw another $50-500 at it for radius arm bushings? Then the vibration is stillthere, now what, another $100-300 for ball joints, vibration still there, then what? tie rod ends? thats the WRONG way to find the problem

 

[88vert]

Where are you buying brake pads at?I got mine for 11.99 life time warranty from advance Auto parts.Have you tried turning the rotors?

 

[410Fortune]

I get my brake pads from my best friend. I use nothing but the best.....Bendix fleet grade pads..they are about $25 a side and last forever.........

 

[88vert]

The pads might last forever but everything else will go to ****,explorer braking systems suck

 

[MyExpWork]

I agree, if ur gonna change the rotors you need to change ur pads too. It would be a good time to inspect all other parts and replace as needed.

If you change the rotos and put the old pads on, ur probably gonna get the same vibration of make it worse.

Brian

 

[410Fortune]

Dude! Explorer braking systems do not suck if you take care of it!

Well I'm also lucky because I have a BII with a D35 TTB and a 31 spline disc brake 8.8 rear, so my truck has "overkill" brakes because the BII weights alot less then a 4 door Explorer....

The only thing I dont like about the pre95 Explorer braking systems inthe ABS. I have removed my RABS system from my truck, adjusted teh proportioning so that I get the correct amount of grab from the front and rear discs.

If ytou are not happy with your Explorer brakes I would suggest doing the rear disc conversion, it makes all the difference in the world. I can stop my BII faster, straighter, and better then pretty much any other SUV they sell.....I've been rear ended twice now because I could stop faster then the guy behind me in a panic stop type situation. Of course they were low speed collisions with small cars and all they did was scrape paint off my rear duff bumper.

The brakes saved my butt last week, driving down a dirt road in Wyoming on our way to the Flaming Gorge with my fully loaded boat in tow an Antalope stepped right out in front of me. I stopped with about 2' to spare....if I still had my original BII brakes we would have hit it.

Another thing to look at with your X brakes is your booster. Ford used several different boosters over the years, get and install the largest one you can find!!!

I have replaced everything in my braking system (except the hard lines) more then once and I am extremely happy with the results. The braking is one of my trucks best features, which is good since I use it mainly to tow stuff......

The rear discs conversion is impressive........

 

[88vert]

I dont ever tow much except for my 10 foot popup camper and with 4 people in my 92 sport and loaded down with gear it just seems the stopping power is not there and I am doing something or another to my truck at least once a week,now that i have changed rotors and pads and bled the whole system the brakes do work alot better,but no where near as good as my parents Tahoe and there truck is almost double the size and tows a 22 foot Searay behind it with 6 peolple in the truck

 

[rocco123]

If you have a runout gauge, check the rotors then. Bet that's it. And no don't bother getting them turned. It's just not worth throwing good money after bad. Rotors for my '94 were $25 ea.
I would only change the pads if they were getting overheated or worn more than 50% while they are off.
Bad radius rods will give a cluncking sound during acceleration or decelleration.
Of coarse you should perform a inspection during the job, but I would plan on changing rotors..especially if it's in sync with the vehicle speed.

 

[Kadarom Douhrek]

Originally posted by rocco123
If you have a runout gauge, check the rotors then. Bet that's it. And no don't bother getting them turned. It's just not worth throwing good money after bad. Rotors for my '94 were $25 ea.
I would only change the pads if they were getting overheated or worn more than 50% while they are off.
Bad radius rods will give a cluncking sound during acceleration or decelleration.
Of coarse you should perform a inspection during the job, but I would plan on changing rotors..especially if it's in sync with the vehicle speed.

Have you ever had rotors turned?
How is it throwing away money?

The Autozone near us will turn both rotors for $10.
That's a lot less than $50.

 

[MM0126]

What if I said that the vibration was like a thumping that slow downs as the car slows down. Sort of like running over rumble strips. or a succession of speed bumps. If I remove my foot while breaking it goes away and comes bake as soon as i re-apply the break. I do not feel it in the brake pedal or the steering wheel, I do feel it from under my feet below the floor board, definately from the front end.

Thanks for all your suggestions...I will follow them all, obviously from the easiest to the exstreme.

Be safe
MM0126

 

[88vert]

Its your rotors mine were doing the same thing before i got new ones

 

[Rhett]

All this talk and I can't believe no one mentioned ABS pulse as the vibration. Or maybe someone did and I missed it. hehehe. Vibe felt thru the pedal can be vac leak in the ABS system, or maybe vac leak in master cylinder.

Of course it can be all of the other things mentioned, rotors, ball joints, radius arm bushings, etc. I just thought I'd throw that out there. You might look into bleeding the brakes, or maybe having a Ford dealer bleed the ABS system.

 

[LudusHatesReese]

USE YOUR PARKING BRAKE TO STOP. IT WORKS JUST FINE.

 

[Adam Foote]

haha great advice.