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What did YOU do to your Explorer today?

BKennedy

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1994 XLT
The window motors have what Ford calls "Plugs" that act as bushings inside the motor. There are three in each motor and they fall apart. Fairly certain it applies to your year Explorer. They are all over the internet. If you hear the motor turning and thumping, with no window motion, then that's what is wrong. You pull the motor, there is one torx head screw holding the plate on, rebuild with new plugs.
 


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A .SCOTT

Member
Joined
November 19, 2001
Messages
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43
City, State
San Anselmo, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT.
The window motors have what Ford calls "Plugs" that act as bushings inside the motor. There are three in each motor and they fall apart. Fairly certain it applies to your year Explorer. They are all over the internet. If you hear the motor turning and thumping, with no window motion, then that's what is wrong. You pull the motor, there is one torx head screw holding the plate on, rebuild with new plug
What BKennedy said above and there is a one touch module on the door panel inside that maybe bad.
Here is a link 3rd post down.
 




A .SCOTT

Member
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Messages
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City, State
San Anselmo, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT.
Painted and Installed the U bolt sliders that were made by @Brian1.
Thanks Brian.
The rear sway bar was removed to give room for the shocks since they are a few inches higher now.
After my last trip out the lowest point was my shocks and clearly they got scraped up a bit on some rocks including the factory brackets.
These new sliders with the higher shock mounting points will alleviate this problem.
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CDW6212R

Hauls the mail.
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City, State
Knoxville, TN
Year, Model & Trim Level
98 Limited AWD
Update: DUH...already knew the switch getting power BUT no window motion, has to be the window motor? Cause all the others work although slowly. Any hints on lubricating the others so their motors don't fail? Or should I count on replacing all the window motors as they've been used since '98?

You only can test the window motors well by applying power and ground to their two wires.

The master switch is the weakest link given the age. Replace that no matter what, the motors are the most reliable components, they almost never fail. There are plastic drive pucks inside the gear section, which are made to wear out, which saves the motors. Those could be ready to go on all of the door motors, do those when you can.
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
What BKennedy said above and there is a one touch module on the door panel inside that maybe bad.
Here is a link 3rd post down.
I bypassed my One Touch Module, took about five minutes. Just one less thing to go bad when 50 miles from a paved road. I also got new door switches off eBay for cheap. I replaced all four of them when the master switch (driver door) started going bad.

Do a search, there are multiple threads on power windows.
 




A .SCOTT

Member
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City, State
San Anselmo, CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT.
The other day I Installed a fan on my transmission cooler.
I found a Ford NOS fan part # F1TZ-19E736-A on eBay.
The bracket that came with the fan lined up with the holes on the center support brace.
I did have to make some spacers and a bracket on the other side but the install was easy.
I used a relay and used my rear wiper switch to operate the fan.
I removed the rear wiper motor awhile back ago since it was broken when I bought the X and not planning on putting another one in.
Today I made a aluminum plate to cover the open space below the radiator as well.
Pics..

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0806211503a.jpg
 




Joined
September 25, 2020
Messages
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City, State
Chico CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer Eddie
The other day I Installed a fan on my transmission cooler.
I found a Ford NOS fan part # F1TZ-19E736-A on eBay.
The bracket that came with the fan lined up with the holes on the center support brace.
I did have to make some spacers and a bracket on the other side but the install was easy.
I used a relay and used my rear wiper switch to operate the fan.
I removed the rear wiper motor awhile back ago since it was broken when I bought the X and not planning on putting another one in.
Today I made a aluminum plate to cover the open space below the radiator as well.
Pics..

View attachment 341302

View attachment 341304

View attachment 341306

View attachment 341307

View attachment 341308
I like that no bumper look.
 




JSWarrell

Elite Explorer
Joined
April 12, 2021
Messages
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City, State
Levittown, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT
I started a new job a month ago after being out of work for so long and finally have some money to throw around, so I spent the last couple of weeks taking on a few projects that I've been putting off.

I decided I wanted the stock look back to my dashboard and got myself a factory CD head unit out of a Windstar. The head unit that was in it previously was a Pioneer that the previous owner put in probably in 2008 or later. There was a lot I didn't like about that thing, but the last straw was when my new phone wouldn't connect to it after pairing, that and the mounting cradle prevented me from getting the dash apart because of all the tabs bent out to hold it in place. Thankfully the previous owner didn't permanently modify any of the harness, but I found out upon installing it that the Amplifier had been bypassed because all I heard out of the speakers was low level audio that was distorting and clipping like crazy.

4N6yfEF.jpg


I figured since I have to remove the rear section of the interior that I would finally address my leaking rear quarter window as well.
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hDxnadS.jpg


It looks like I'll be having this apart again soon, I have some bad rust spots to take care of.
j3dBaUe.jpg


...and this is when I found out that the amp was not only bypassed, but removed entirely, forcing me to make yet another trip to the only salvage yard that still has 1st gen Explorers.
dDiqLWB.jpg


1 week later (My Tuesdays off are the only time I can make it to these salvage yards)
Amp's put in and it works great! Oh, and the window doesn't leak anymore. Mission accomplished.
nC2ORqo.jpg


It's so nice to have a gentle green (or slightly blue in this case, I don't mind) glow that matches the rest of the dashboard, and I missed the ease of use that comes with these radios. That and I believe it'll hold accurate time after a month and not gradually speed up like the Pioneer did, man I hated that.
Nt0gqkv.jpg

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Oh, and the third thing I did was replace the overhead console I put in two years ago with another one. The last one had to be either cycled through the modes or tapped to get it to work nearly every time I started it up, and a few weeks ago it finally died for good and wouldn't power up at all. Got this one out of a 97 Eddie Bauer Explorer, which worked out perfectly because it glows blue and matches the display on the radio.
mfYD5CQ.jpg


Still got plenty more planned, including wiring up a 2nd gen rear door lock switch (I may do a tutorial on this) and replacing the headliner and cargo carpet.
 




Joined
September 25, 2020
Messages
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City, State
Chico CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1991 Ford Explorer Eddie
Nice work JSWarrell
Is it pretty easy to add the top console. I grabbed a two piece cup holder for my center console. I have been told that it will change out ok. My trucks far from clean but I think an extra console with a compass/thermometer on it would be nice. Also I don't have a radio in yet. One day I was snipping a bunch of wires that were hooked up to a disc changer thing and I lost cruise control. If and probably when I go to get a radio in mine I will probably buy a couple speakers and maybe even do what you did and try to hook up a sub.
 




joney

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City, State
Eau Claire WI
Year, Model & Trim Level
1998 Explorer XLT
I started a new job a month ago after being out of work for so long and finally have some money to throw around, so I spent the last couple of weeks taking on a few projects that I've been putting off.

I decided I wanted the stock look back to my dashboard and got myself a factory CD head unit out of a Windstar. The head unit that was in it previously was a Pioneer that the previous owner put in probably in 2008 or later. There was a lot I didn't like about that thing, but the last straw was when my new phone wouldn't connect to it after pairing, that and the mounting cradle prevented me from getting the dash apart because of all the tabs bent out to hold it in place. Thankfully the previous owner didn't permanently modify any of the harness, but I found out upon installing it that the Amplifier had been bypassed because all I heard out of the speakers was low level audio that was distorting and clipping like crazy.

View attachment 342121

I figured since I have to remove the rear section of the interior that I would finally address my leaking rear quarter window as well.
View attachment 342122
View attachment 342123

It looks like I'll be having this apart again soon, I have some bad rust spots to take care of.
View attachment 342124

...and this is when I found out that the amp was not only bypassed, but removed entirely, forcing me to make yet another trip to the only salvage yard that still has 1st gen Explorers.
View attachment 342125

1 week later (My Tuesdays off are the only time I can make it to these salvage yards)
Amp's put in and it works great! Oh, and the window doesn't leak anymore. Mission accomplished.
View attachment 342126

It's so nice to have a gentle green (or slightly blue in this case, I don't mind) glow that matches the rest of the dashboard, and I missed the ease of use that comes with these radios. That and I believe it'll hold accurate time after a month and not gradually speed up like the Pioneer did, man I hated that.
View attachment 342127
View attachment 342128

Oh, and the third thing I did was replace the overhead console I put in two years ago with another one. The last one had to be either cycled through the modes or tapped to get it to work nearly every time I started it up, and a few weeks ago it finally died for good and wouldn't power up at all. Got this one out of a 97 Eddie Bauer Explorer, which worked out perfectly because it glows blue and matches the display on the radio.
View attachment 342129

Still got plenty more planned, including wiring up a 2nd gen rear door lock switch (I may do a tutorial on this) and replacing the headliner and cargo carpet.
Very nice work! I notice your stock radio shows the time...Mine doesn't (stock 1998 XLT the cassette/disc in the head) Am I missing something or were there different stock radios..
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
I changed the oil / filter. This process for me also includes checking all the fluids and doing a through inspection of the engine compartment, and underside / suspension. Engine oil pan is leaking again at the front. I changed it twice already, so maybe next time I change the oil I will drop the pan and just RTV the heck out it. I change the oil about once a year whether it needs it or not and it was about 3/4 quart low so its not leaking that much but just enough to cover the pan with gunk. Write the date on the bottom of the filter so I can see it when crawling around underneath. Also changed out the door lights. I had some LED bulbs in there that were some kind of ugly gray color, changed them for warm white bulbs.
Not a big deal, but that's what I did to my Explorer today.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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City, State
Polk County Texas
Year, Model & Trim Level
96 Explorer 5.0L AWD
Callsign
Big Red
@JSWarrell Seeing how good of shape yours is in and having rust spot scares me for when i plan on pulling my interior for pressure washing later on after i finish trans rebuild. I had a leak i ignored for awhile not having time now im worried it was leaking before i noticed and it might have rust. I fixed the leak quit awhile ago but never checked for what damage it caused stupid me!
 




JSWarrell

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City, State
Levittown, PA
Year, Model & Trim Level
1994 Explorer XLT
@Abramwithda1991fourdoor On mine it was easy because the holes that need to be drilled for the mounting bracket were already there (93 and 94 were the only years for a 1st gen Limited, which had the console). Cutting into the headliner is a very unsettling process, but necessary and worth it once it's done. The hard part was making a harness for it and splicing it into all the circuits it would normally use, plus finding a spot to mount the ambient temperature sensor. Mine's tucked up under the front bumper on the driver side and run through a hole I drilled through the cover plate where the clutch would normally be. I think there's a couple of threads around here dedicated to retrofitting these consoles into 1st gens that might help you out, especially since you'll most likely have to get it centered properly to drill those holes since you presumably have a 91.

@joney I don't know, this one was out of a 98 Windstar. I thought all Ford head units displayed the time.

@MakinJeepsWeep! Yeah I feel you, I think mine was leaking for a while before the previous owner sold it to me. I ended up ignoring it further for about two years before I finally got around to fixing it. This thing's got plenty of rust spots in other places as well, but I plan on learning how to weld in the near future and patching in my own steel to fix it.
 




MakinJeepsWeep!

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96 Explorer 5.0L AWD
Callsign
Big Red
Get a good hood that is adjustable and i really enjoy the grind function they have too. When i first started out welding i had a cheapo hood and man what a change after getting a good. Also personally i dont care for the big viewing window ones lets in too much light to me.
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
Do not get those Harbor Freight auto hoods. I had one go out on me while I was welding. I was seeing spots for days. I have a Lincoln auto helmet and it has been flawless. Got it at Home Depot so easy to find one.

I hear those new Harbor Freight flux core migs are pretty good for a starter welder.
 




kmack

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City, State
San Antonio, TX
Year, Model & Trim Level
1993 Ford Explorer
My HF flux-core MIG (110V) has been running strong since 1999. But I also didn't get the cheapest one they had either.
This is the current equivalent version of mine: 170 Amp-DC, 240 Volt, MIG/Flux Cored Welder
Although I paid a bit more for mine back in the day!
Only thing I've done to it was add an electric fan from a computer to the case. Since that mod, I've yet to hit the duty cycle on it ever again.
 




BKennedy

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1994 XLT
All the welding on my Explorer was done with a Lincoln Weld-Pak 110 welder. It works great for anything up to 1/4" thick. I have had it for 15 years and it still works great.
 




~X~

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Location
Shady cove, Oregon
City, State
Southern Oregon
Year, Model & Trim Level
6 Explorers & a 91 Ranger
I went from a Miller 35 to a Titanium 170......great little machine. I like the digital display and the inductance setting. I've done a ton of projects with it & when the gun wears out I'll replace it with a Tweco.
 






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