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what is this worth?

catdaddy

Elite Explorer
Joined
November 24, 2006
Messages
226
Reaction score
7
City, State
new orleans,la
Year, Model & Trim Level
92 xlt
Truck ran hot again and I can't figure out why. Ran it for about 1 hundred miles off and on, and after a 20 min. stop for food drove 2 more miles home where the temp gauge shot to the L, and when I turned it off heard the coolant gurgling, I think some flowed out of the tank. Still gonna fix it, but if I decide to sell, what would be a fair price?

mkum1u.jpg
 



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It's most likely the thermostat.

If you sell it without replacing the 'stat, it will probably be worth even less.

The thing about highly customized vehicles, though, especially permanent mods like suicide doors and the like, is that they only make the vehicle worth more to certain people who want that type of stuff. To the general buyer, it usually makes it worth even less than a stocker. First gens don't seem to be going for a whole heck of a lot these days unless it's a highly modified 4x4. You'll probably get the most for it by selling it long term, keeping for sale signs in the windows and advertising online until you find the person who decides it's exactly what they're looking for.
 






The 4.0 ohv doesn't like being overheated. when they overheat they tend to crack heads.. If your lucky, its a thermostat.. if your unlucky its cracked heads which takes about 12 hours of work to fix (thats just r&r of heads and all the stuff in the way)..

~Mark
 






That's got to be awkward opening the rear door with the handle in the factory location, but right next to the hinge.
However I do like the black paint and the wheels.
 






Gonna replace the t-stat. What else should I check? Is there a way to tell definitely if I busted a gasket or cracked a head b4 I pull it apart? Don't wanna sell :( like to pass by the stock models & :D
 






That's got to be awkward opening the rear door with the handle in the factory location, but right next to the hinge.
However I do like the black paint and the wheels.

Nope, hardly ever open them, no one rides back there
 






If the temp gauge never went past the L, you might still be okay. I had mine creep up on me but shut it off in time so it never completely overheated to crack anything.

Usually when the needle keeps creeping up and up every so often, it means the 'stat is opening less and less, until finally the pressure backs up and overflows the reservoir.

I'd say the best thing to do for now is replace the 'stat (I prefer the factory Motorcraft 190 degree 'stat, but it's $20+ bucks, you can get a 195 degree Stant at parts stores for ~$5), then refill the system with all new coolant & water. If you notice oil in the drained coolant or coolant in the oil at the next oil change, or white smoke or something, you'll know you've got head issues, either a blown gasket or cracks. Either or will require head removal, at which time you can check the heads for cracks.
 






Man i would love to drive that :p
haha
looks great man
did you do all the work?
 






Thanks BrianD. Doors & paint out-sourced. Changed the t-stat (all I could find was 198 degree) and ran it w/the rad. cap off, aft about 5 min. pushed some antifreeze out like every 3 sec. but no bubles, and aft. 15 min. temp. gauge (which tested OK) went as far as the R. Blew a little grey smoke for a couple min. & no wet plugs, oil and antifreeze look OK. :dunno: Any thoughts?
 






Ah, now isnt that more readable? :)
 






font too big?
 






A little - not everyone has big screens (some people even use PDAs / mobile phones). But its all good.
 






looks good for a 4 door. I admire the work ppl put into their cars, trucks, bikes. personally I keep the stock look on the outside. Less tickets :)
 






looks good for a 4 door. I admire the work ppl put into their cars, trucks, bikes. personally I keep the stock look on the outside. Less tickets :)

Heeeeyyyyy, I look stock & not too flashy. Took about a 5 mile drive to the parts store, temp. gauge still went to the L, reservoir level went up, no white smoke but the oil's starting to look suspect.
 






I need the EF Think Tank. Here's what I did today, ran engine to warm-up b4 compression testing. It ran for 6 min. w/radiator cap off, no bubbles in radiator b4 pushing water out. There is water/anti-freeze in the oil. Plugs look O.K. Compression on pass, side good: 175, 175, 180, compression on driver's side: 4=100, 5=130, 6=150. 2nd test on pass. side w/oil added to cylinders, 4=110, 5=135, 6=150. does any of this info. definitely point to where my leak is. Tried to bounce ideas off of the wife like House, but it don't work. Oh, I ain't selling. This place rocks.:salute:
 






Yes, I think you pinpointed it. Driver's side of the engine, especially cyl's 4&5, can't tell if it's the gasket or a crack or both until you pull that head. That side has quite a bit of difference in compression compared to the passenger side. Let's hope for the best that you only need to replace the gaskets.
 






Has anyone ever encountered a warped head or block, maybe my torque tech. needs improvement.
 






Warped heads are more common with aluminum, but it's still possible if the engine overheated. Sometimes it's just a blown head gasket, but the stock Explorer heads are pretty weak and cracked heads are unfortunately rather common. Luckily new aftermarket ones aren't too expensive, and they are better than factory. Great excuse to add some more performance while you're at it.
 






I only like the modded look when it's done properly. If it's not done properly then I just hate it.

To be nice I'll simply say that I wouldn't be too interested in buying it.
 



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I only like the modded look when it's done properly. If it's not done properly then I just hate it.

To be nice I'll simply say that I wouldn't be too interested in buying it.

Not selling.
 






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