Wits End - Coolant Leak

[94Eddie]

Here is another source for a shop manual.

Ford Explorer 2006 2007 2008 2009 2010 Factory Service Repair Workshop Manual | eBay

 

[il66pony]

Just bought it. Thanks. Looks like I will not get the download until Monday. This should convince me to either try and do it myself or have someone do it or sell it to CarMax

 

[94Eddie]

Just bought it. Thanks. Looks like I will not get the download until Monday. This should convince me to either try and do it myself or have someone do it or sell it to CarMax

It is very comprehensive and the PDF file has over 5,300 pages in it. I was able to download the file within 24 hours.

 

[il66pony]

It is very comprehensive and the PDF file has over 5,300 pages in it. I was able to download the file within 24 hours.

And the chapter for replacing the heater core is only what? 1,000 pages? LOL

 

[Bazz270]

Heater core replacement found on chapter 303-03

 

[il66pony]

Heater core replacement found on chapter 303-03

I have read that taking out the front seats will make accessibility easier. What do you think? Keep in mind that I am 71 years old and not as flexible as I once was.

I will take it to the Ford dealer tomorrow for a quote. They had the car for two hours two weeks ago and did not properly diagnose the issue. They said it was the "Y" hose that I bought after coaching them that I thought that to be the problem. I will then take it to a local radiator shop to see what they say.

 

[Bazz270]

Removing ( or release 8 seats bolts and move the seats to the second row)front seats could help (optional in my opinion) .you will need an assistance for taking the dashboard out of the car.

 

[D Hook]

I would be very very surprised if it's the heater core. You should be able to discern the odor of hot antifreeze inside the cabin. I can't think of a good path the antifreeze could take to get outside the cabin and not leave a lingering odor. I'd be more suspect of something in the engine compartment leaking down to the location you indicated. Have you closely inspected the top of the then engine for pooling antifreeze? I'm retired too but don't know if I would tackle the dash removal without being 1 million % sure that was the problem. Before you condemn the heater hoses maybe try to find a diagram for the heater plumbing so you can see where everything inside the cabin is located so you could see a path the antifreeze might take. You might be able to locate the leak to confirm before pulling everything out.

Good luck. Keep us updated.

 

[94Eddie]

Every heater core that I have had that leaked left a smell of coolant inside the cabin when the heat was on. They also left a film on the windshield from the coolant when the heat was on high and the defrost position was being used. Especially in cooler weather.

 

[Bazz270]

In my case no any coolant odor detected (hot weather )

Just a huge puddle under transmission in the morning.
In hot weather washed with a/c condensate

The most common leaks locations on V8 modular are:

1.radiator lower plastic case and fittings
2.radiator hoses.
3.Y-fitting hose assembly/Valve and related heater hoses
4.coolant pump shaft.
5.front heater core.
6.rear heater core and hoses (beneath exhaust and spare tire carrier.
7.intake manifold gaskets
8.oil filter adapter gasket.

After approx 100+ miles all of this plastic and aluminum garbage suspected as failed as well as crap ford electric components and harness and timing related parts.
The less common locations are radiator cap,coolant tank,termostat housing,engine block plugs,rear and front coolant metal piping and valve head gasket.


The only way for coolant to enter cabin area are front heater core and rear heater core plus rubber inlet/outlet hoses(for the rear only- no inner hoses for the front one)
Front heater core leak could be detected using flex cable mini endoscopic camera (with flash light)via center console removed or something


Or the simple way

Bypass your heater core and check for leaks again.

 

[il66pony]

So, I went to the Ford dealer. $1,800. 7 hours of labor at $200 per hour. But the Motorcraft heater core has been on back-order for a while and there is not ETA. And, they will not offer any guarantee without using the Motorcraft part. I found one on Cardid.com but still not guarantee it as it is not coming from Ford. Went to a radiator shop I have used in the past for AC in my 1968 Mustang whom I trust. He told me that they don't do the heater cores any longer as his guys are getting older and it it puts too much strain on their backs. Along with it takes a lot of time and he is a small shop. He told me to go to a shop nearby that does them that he refers his heater core customers to. Went there. $950 is the quote. He will not use a Motorcraft but he says what he gets is just as good if not better and will guarantee it.



DHook and 94Eddie and of course Buzz - Thanks for your replies. Especially given what I found when I got home from my get estimates travels today. I left the car outside to clean up the "coolant" that leaked yesterday after my early morning drive. Now yesterday, I did not bother to analyze what had dripped on the floor as in my mind, it could only be coolant from having the heater cranked up to 85 degrees during my coolish early morning drive. But, all wetness is gone from the big pan I had under the car and it had also dripped directly on the floor missing the pan. Not even a dried brownish residue! So, it was just water dripping out. Not sure why I would get condensate only having the heat on?



So, I continue to be at my wits end. Especially now having read what the two new guys on the thread said. When I was in college, my heater core on my 1963 Dodge sprung a leak in the heater core. Could definitely smell it and the windows were all fogged with sweet stuff that I could not effectively get rid of. Bypassed the the heater at a close rest stop and did the remaining 500 mile drive in 10 degree weather with no heat.



After we get rid of the warm and humid weather today, it will be in the mid-sixties the next couple of days. So, I will try the heat again. I also read that Barr's Stop Leak Liquid aluminum is really good for radiators and heater cores. So, I bought a bottle yesterday afternoon (using my wife's car to get it. What do you guys think? Should I try it? What is the worst that can happen? I clog the heater core? LOL



Oh and yes, I have the download link for the shop manual so I will download it now. Although if it is the heater core, for $900 I will let the independent shop do it.

Thanks for sticking with me on my problem.

 

[donalds]

Use K seal

 

[il66pony]

Use K seal

Just looked at it online. Looks good. What type of leak did you have and I assume it worked well for you.

 

[94Eddie]

So, I went to the Ford dealer. $1,800. 7 hours of labor at $200 per hour. But the Motorcraft heater core has been on back-order for a while and there is not ETA. And, they will not offer any guarantee without using the Motorcraft part. I found one on Cardid.com but still not guarantee it as it is not coming from Ford. Went to a radiator shop I have used in the past for AC in my 1968 Mustang whom I trust. He told me that they don't do the heater cores any longer as his guys are getting older and it it puts too much strain on their backs. Along with it takes a lot of time and he is a small shop. He told me to go to a shop nearby that does them that he refers his heater core customers to. Went there. $950 is the quote. He will not use a Motorcraft but he says what he gets is just as good if not better and will guarantee it.



DHook and 94Eddie and of course Buzz - Thanks for your replies. Especially given what I found when I got home from my get estimates travels today. I left the car outside to clean up the "coolant" that leaked yesterday after my early morning drive. Now yesterday, I did not bother to analyze what had dripped on the floor as in my mind, it could only be coolant from having the heater cranked up to 85 degrees during my coolish early morning drive. But, all wetness is gone from the big pan I had under the car and it had also dripped directly on the floor missing the pan. Not even a dried brownish residue! So, it was just water dripping out. Not sure why I would get condensate only having the heat on?



So, I continue to be at my wits end. Especially now having read what the two new guys on the thread said. When I was in college, my heater core on my 1963 Dodge sprung a leak in the heater core. Could definitely smell it and the windows were all fogged with sweet stuff that I could not effectively get rid of. Bypassed the the heater at a close rest stop and did the remaining 500 mile drive in 10 degree weather with no heat.



After we get rid of the warm and humid weather today, it will be in the mid-sixties the next couple of days. So, I will try the heat again. I also read that Barr's Stop Leak Liquid aluminum is really good for radiators and heater cores. So, I bought a bottle yesterday afternoon (using my wife's car to get it. What do you guys think? Should I try it? What is the worst that can happen? I clog the heater core? LOL



Oh and yes, I have the download link for the shop manual so I will download it now. Although if it is the heater core, for $900 I will let the independent shop do it.

Thanks for sticking with me on my problem.

If you try a stop leak be sure to report back here with the results. It will be useful in the future for people to know if it worked, or not, and what brand you used.

 

[donalds]

Just looked at it online. Looks good. What type of leak did you have and I assume it worked well for you.

I can't remember
but I love this stuff
It actually works

 

[MakinJeepsWeep!]

If your going to use a stop leak get a can of pepper and put about half in the coolant and watch it stop leaking. No chemicals and it works wonders, drove a ranger for years with pepper blocking a hole in the plastic radiator i put there when a wrench slipped. Plus should you ever fix the issue it comes out easy with a good water hose flush. Its (from what i have been told) a old trucker trick.

 

[il66pony]

If you try a stop leak be sure to report back here with the results. It will be useful in the future for people to know if it worked, or not, and what brand you used.

Will do.

 

[Bazz270]

So, I went to the Ford dealer. $1,800. 7 hours of labor at $200 per hour. But the Motorcraft heater core has been on back-order for a while and there is not ETA. And, they will not offer any guarantee without using the Motorcraft part. I found one on Cardid.com but still not guarantee it as it is not coming from Ford. Went to a radiator shop I have used in the past for AC in my 1968 Mustang whom I trust. He told me that they don't do the heater cores any longer as his guys are getting older and it it puts too much strain on their backs. Along with it takes a lot of time and he is a small shop. He told me to go to a shop nearby that does them that he refers his heater core customers to. Went there. $950 is the quote. He will not use a Motorcraft but he says what he gets is just as good if not better and will guarantee it.



DHook and 94Eddie and of course Buzz - Thanks for your replies. Especially given what I found when I got home from my get estimates travels today. I left the car outside to clean up the "coolant" that leaked yesterday after my early morning drive. Now yesterday, I did not bother to analyze what had dripped on the floor as in my mind, it could only be coolant from having the heater cranked up to 85 degrees during my coolish early morning drive. But, all wetness is gone from the big pan I had under the car and it had also dripped directly on the floor missing the pan. Not even a dried brownish residue! So, it was just water dripping out. Not sure why I would get condensate only having the heat on?



So, I continue to be at my wits end. Especially now having read what the two new guys on the thread said. When I was in college, my heater core on my 1963 Dodge sprung a leak in the heater core. Could definitely smell it and the windows were all fogged with sweet stuff that I could not effectively get rid of. Bypassed the the heater at a close rest stop and did the remaining 500 mile drive in 10 degree weather with no heat.



After we get rid of the warm and humid weather today, it will be in the mid-sixties the next couple of days. So, I will try the heat again. I also read that Barr's Stop Leak Liquid aluminum is really good for radiators and heater cores. So, I bought a bottle yesterday afternoon (using my wife's car to get it. What do you guys think? Should I try it? What is the worst that can happen? I clog the heater core? LOL



Oh and yes, I have the download link for the shop manual so I will download it now. Although if it is the heater core, for $900 I will let the independent shop do it.

Thanks for sticking with me on my problem.

Hi

Aftermarket parts on 1800 bucks job strongly not recommended even with shop warranty apply on em for a while.

Ive installed motorcraft heater core from ebay (not a shady seller but they still have minumum responsibilty for the listings)for my own risk..will never do it again.only new oem parts from ford authorized dealer for such a job (dont really have to be ford authorized mechanic as i said before).
Backorders without ETA usually takes 3-6 months until they start production line once again.

7 hours sound ok for this job( it really takes more if you have a lot of aftermarket wiring inside your dashboard).200 bucks per hour it is a bit higher than a local Israeli Ford dealer pricelist LOL..here we have approx 140 buçks average including VAT


Not sure about stop leaking chemicals because of relatively very high gen4 V8 engine coolant pump pressure (20 bar or so).interesting..

 

[D Hook]

I would try the pepper fix before the Barrs Leak product. I've used Barrs Leak in older engines and it worked fine. Don't know how it would do in the newer engines with closer tolerances and maybe smaller water passages. Might clog up where you don't want it to. At least the pepper is easier to rinse out. (But don't use cayenne pepper 'cause that will make your engine run hot.)

Have you determined if the liquid that's leaking IS anti-freeze for sure?

"...left the car outside to clean up the "coolant" that leaked yesterday after my early morning drive. Now yesterday, I did not bother to analyze what had dripped on the floor as in my mind, it could only be coolant from having the heater cranked up to 85 degrees during my coolish early morning drive. But, all wetness is gone from the big pan I had under the car and it had also dripped directly on the floor missing the pan. Not even a dried brownish residue! So, it was just water dripping out. Not sure why I would get condensate only having the heat on?"

I think sometimes the A/C runs to remove humidity from the cabin. That's the reason I ask if you know for sure it's antifreeze leaking on the ground. You seem to be saying that you have something leaking but it's more water than antifreeze. Passenger side is where the condensate tube empties out I think. It would really suck to spend all that time/money and STILL have the same leak. You might have to take some more trouble shooting steps before taking action. And I would check all those potential leak sights you mentioned above. As I'm sure you know, liquid can take a circuitous route before actually hitting the ground.

 

[94Eddie]

The AC comes on if the defrost vent setting is used no matter what temperature is set.