Wits End - Coolant Leak

[94Eddie]

Not too bad at $180.00 So, I will try the JB Weld. If it does not work, I will then get the part. Then I will take it to have the cooling system flushed as it has never been done and I am at 103,000 miles. Probably do the transfer case as well.

If you plan on keeping the vehicle a while then I would suggest also doing a transmission pan drop and filter change along with servicing the front and rear differentials if these things haven't been done.

Edit:
That is a nice looking Mustang. Is it all stock?

 

[il66pony]

If you plan on keeping the vehicle a while then I would suggest also doing a transmission pan drop and filter change along with servicing the front and rear differentials if these things haven't been done.

Edit:
That is a nice looking Mustang. Is it all stock?

Good Advice I guess the transfer case as well? Probably will keep it a while longer. The Mustang. It has Shelby valve covers and intake manifold with an Edelbrock carb. Also a Sanden compressor. Other than that, bone stock.

 

[Bazz270]

Scotchbright pad. Good idea and I have some. JB weld will be here later today. I am thinking you applied several layers to build up the strength of the pipe where the weld is. Sounds like you waited an hour between layers. I did find the part. It is most of the under hood heater plumbing including the "Y" piping. It also has the shut off valve. It is Motorcraft. Here is a link to it.

2006-2010 Ford Hose Assembly - Coolant Inlet 6L2Z-18C553-C | Group 1 Auto Parts

Not too bad at $180.00 So, I will try the JB Weld. If it does not work, I will then get the part. Then I will take it to have the cooling system flushed as it has never been done and I am at 103,000 miles. Probably do the transfer case as well.

I am really glad I did not feel that I needed to try the Bar's Liquid Aluminum. I am taking it back to O'Rielly's today!

You can also fix it by real aluminum welding (at radiator shop for example).

Anyways
Ford oem quality parts are the best solution for any repair,also in your case.

 

[C5Mike]

Here are a couple of photos of what my fix looks like. Not pretty but it works. I did it in a single layer so that the material is homogenous. Funny the similarities between us. I'm 70 and retired, not as agile as I once was, both have similar SUVs, and both have Mustang GTCS. Mine is a 2007. I feel the same as you about the technology overloaded new vehicles.

 

[il66pony]

Here are a couple of photos of what my fix looks like. Not pretty but it works. I did it in a single layer so that the material is homogenous. Funny the similarities between us. I'm 70 and retired, not as agile as I once was, both have similar SUVs, and both have Mustang GTCS. Mine is a 2007. I feel the same as you about the technology overloaded new vehicles.

View attachment 342719

View attachment 342720

View attachment 342721

Thanks Nice GTCS Love that color. I clearly am not as agile as I once was. Does not help with our low slung Mustangs LOL.

 

[il66pony]

You can also fix it by real aluminum welding (at radiator shop for example).

Anyways
Ford oem quality parts are the best solution for any repair,also in your case.

I would agree

 

[il66pony]

Thanks Nice GTCS Love that color. I clearly am not as agile as I once was. Does not help with our low slung Mustangs LOL.

So I just went out to scotchbrite the welded area and noticed that the backside of it is very hard to get to due to that other pipe running behind it. Did you use anything like a Popsicle stick to spread and massage the JB on the back side? Or did you remove the stability clamp that attaches to the firewall to get yourself more room?

 

[94Eddie]

Here are a couple of photos of what my fix looks like. Not pretty but it works. I did it in a single layer so that the material is homogenous. Funny the similarities between us. I'm 70 and retired, not as agile as I once was, both have similar SUVs, and both have Mustang GTCS. Mine is a 2007. I feel the same as you about the technology overloaded new vehicles.

Nice looking Mustang. You have a little age on me. I don't have a CS Mustang but I do have a Steeda worked over 2007 GT and a '89 LX 5.0L I factory ordered. I figure I will drive them until my knees give out and can't work a clutch. The 2007 sits so low I can't get a normal floor jack under it.

 

[donalds]

My son loves your red 89

 

[94Eddie]

My son loves your red 89

Fox bodies are rare to see on the road these days. I am planning to get rid of one of them but am torn with which one it will be. I have a lot of sweat, blood, money and history into the '89. I worked hard to keep it a sleeper. The only tell from the outside is the rims where I switched from four to five lugs. It has a T-56 six speed which I absolutely love. The KB blower isn't on it now. I planned to do an EFI 392 cid stroker using a 351W block but never got around to it. If you look at the outlet manifold on top of the blower you can see where I put my water injection port. The white bottle on the inside of the driver's fender is where the water is located. The pump is inside that bottle. The control box for it is mounted inside the car.

The 2007 though is an absolute blast to drive. The suspension mods Steeda did to it are incredible. It handles insanely well. I plan to run it on some road coarse tracks this fall and winter. Steeda did a custom tune and a few engine light engine mods to it that added about 40-50 hp. They also installed 4.10 gears which I really like. It is completely stock the way it came from the Ford dealer and I plan to keep it that way. I bought it a couple of years ago with 52k miles on it and it has 60k on it now. After driving it the past two years it would be hard living with the handling of the '89. I would have to spend a massive amount of time and money to get it close to the handling level of the 2007. I have the original window stickers for it and it is hard to believe the dealer sold it for nearly $42k when it was new.

 

[Blackhawkxx]

I wish I still had my Fox 85 GT. I have also always really wanted a 93 Cobra, just loved that car.

 

[Tgerpwz]

2007 Mountaineer 4.6 V8, rear heating and AC, 103k miles. A couple of weeks ago, I noticed coolant dripping from a bolt on the bottom of the passenger side frame rail. It was dripping (not much) about 18 inches back of the rear edge of the front fender. I looked but could find no obvious leak so I came here and posted about it. Seems like the culprit would be the "Y" hose assembly that runs to the right side of the exhaust manifold and down for the rear heater. So I got the part yesterday, took off the air intake assembly, wheel, and a rubber flap in the wheel well. Everything was dry as a bone with no sign of any kind of leak. And of course antifreeze does not evaporate. So, traced the heat and AC lines all the way back to where they enter the cabin in the rear. Everything dry as a bone. Side of engine, rear of engine, bell housing, tranny not a single trace of coolant. BTW, when I first noticed this the overflow tank was empty when cold. I did put some in to get a little in the tank.

So, while driving it in the last couple of weeks, coming home and parking it, it has leaked several times but not every time. It has been pretty hot here so only the AC has been on. Have not driven it at night during all of this so no chance the heater kicked on. Today is cooler so I may take it out tonight and run bot front and rear heat and see what happens.

Has anyone ever had an elusive leak like this? Any ideas for me?

Again, thanks in advance.

Dave

I would pressure test it but if you are getting any window foging ...heater core.

 

[sport trac jr.]

Ding, Ding Ding! You are a genius. I just got home from my travels today. Had the heat on, then the AC on and back and forth. Then for the last 15 minutes had the system off. So, I just went out and found coolant on the underside of that pipe right by the weld. Thank you, thank you thank you! The y pipe is still completely dry. I guess I missed feeling the underside of that pipe because hey, a metal pipe won't leak! I did not see the weld. I was so excited that I did not even look to see if that is a replaceable part. I think I would rather replace it than try the JB Weld. Was there anything you did special with the JB weld? I assume you do it with the car stone cold. Did you clean and shine up the pipe with steel wool or very fine grit sandpaper?

Again, thank you so much for taking the time to find, read and reply to the the thread. The picture was perfect!

And thanks to all who weighed in on this thread over the past five days!

Dave

So my idea of drilling a drain hole in the floor is off the table

 

[il66pony]

So my idea of drilling a drain hole in the floor is off the table

The JB Water Weld did not work for me. Could never get the pipe dry. So I went to a radiator shop and he advised buying the part rather than trying to aluminum weld it. Got home from there and it was suddenly leaking a lot. Bought the part and it should be here Sunday. I am letting the radiator shop install it and do a flush of the system.

 

[joney]

The less expensive piece with the Y is sold with just the Y and hoses. It does not include the other stuff that comes with the part listed above. But no matter. I am not dissing the dealer. Heck, it took me and all the great folks on this forum over two weeks to track down this leak.

I guess I have been lucky with my 2007 Mountaineer. At 7,000 miles, the right front tire rubbed through the brake hose so I lost front brakes. At 50,000 miles, the front passenger seat movement ate through the seat wiring harness which caused the air bag warning light to come on. That cost $250. At 80,000 miles I paid $500 to have the dealer replace the spark plugs using their process to ensure the old plugs did not break off. At 90,000, I did the brakes. That's it until this leak.

I love this car. New cars are like driving a video game and all the electronics scare me. I have read so many reviews of all types of cars and it seems people have problems ranging from annoying to serious stuff and multiple trips to the dealer. I am old school because I am old. Have a video display of the speedometer, tach and other guages rather than real needles is just wrong. Having a rotating knob to select the gear is just wrong. Having the car shut down at a stoplight is just wrong. Some of the electronics are good like blind spot monitors. But driving assist features, no way. Just leads to more distracted driving. Just because you can do something cool with technology does not mean you should always use it. Old baby boomer rant for today. Time to put us out to pasture.

I think I will take a cruise in my 1968 Mustang California Special today.
View attachment 342711

Beautiful Stang! RE: the tech, I like to focus on the road, hit the radio buttons without looking at them, occasionally glance at the gauges. Having a large video display, or worse, a touch screen, would be a large distraction for me. Have been driving too long to feel a need for a lot of the new features, even ABS. Yep, another boomer here.

 

[Larryholmes]

At this point, I am not sure of anything except the sun which did rise in the east again today. When I first spotted the "liquid" on the floor two weeks ago, it was definitely antifreeze. Tasted so sweet that I do not think any appreciable water was mixed in. Also, I do think you are right about the compressor running at times due to humidity in the cabin. Yesterday when I was running around getting estimates, I did not use the heater. It was fairly warm a quite humid. It also was raining on the way home. Obviously, a lot of water was dripping off the car. This morning, the floor is as dry as can be.

I have thought of another thing that I question. When installed, the core sits flat at the bottom and the tubes rise above it and exit near the top of the firewall. So that means, there is always coolant in the core even with the heat turned off. With the heat turned off, if just sits there and of course it is not circulating. Also, no pressure. So, it would seem to me that a large leak would drip out all the time even when the car is parked overnight.. So, if I am right about this, it seems like if I have a leak, it is small and only leaks under pressure. I suppose it is possible that I had a leak and gunk in the cooling system plugged it up and it is okay for now.

I will be on the road with the car for about two hours today and the temp will be in the upper sixties. So, I will run the heater some and see what drips and analyze quickly before whatever would have a chance to dry up. I will also really try to see if I can smell coolant with the heat on.

I will hold off using any kind of stop leak magic for now.

That is this morning's update.

Dave
View attachment 342694

For untold years I had a microscopic crack in the right side of my radiator. Never over heated but every drop of whatever I put into the reservoir quickly disappeared. It wasn’t on a seam but exactly in the middle of the right side. Last year I took it in to replace the AC compressor and a great mechanic found it. The shop sewed everything up for under $2K and I am driving with confidence again. Another 160K miles? Maybe. Take it to a pro!

 

[Bazz270]

The JB Water Weld did not work for me. Could never get the pipe dry. So I went to a radiator shop and he advised buying the part rather than trying to aluminum weld it. Got home from there and it was suddenly leaking a lot. Bought the part and it should be here Sunday. I am letting the radiator shop install it and do a flush of the system.

All the vehicle adhesives or sealants like this supposed to be an a temporary fix only (dont count on marketing tricks)

Steering liquid ,engine oil or coolant sealants are all the same.they are engineered to be an emergency road situation remedy but they probably will work for a long time too (in coolant case i believe that coolant liquid supposed to be drained and surfaced well cleaned prior to sealant apply).they all could fail in any moment especially in high pressure coolant systems.

Aluminum welding will work but only with highly qualified welder and shop quality control.

 

[Justinwht]

So, I have been looking at KIA Telurides and Hyundai Palisades. Best I could find was $5,000 over MSRP on a Teluride and a six month wait.

I'm seriously looking at Kia Soul with turbo. Base price is $18K and turbo is $27K (includes interior electronics upgrades)

 

[pmchugh883]

At this point, I am not sure of anything except the sun which did rise in the east again today. When I first spotted the "liquid" on the floor two weeks ago, it was definitely antifreeze. Tasted so sweet that I do not think any appreciable water was mixed in. Also, I do think you are right about the compressor running at times due to humidity in the cabin. Yesterday when I was running around getting estimates, I did not use the heater. It was fairly warm a quite humid. It also was raining on the way home. Obviously, a lot of water was dripping off the car. This morning, the floor is as dry as can be.

I have thought of another thing that I question. When installed, the core sits flat at the bottom and the tubes rise above it and exit near the top of the firewall. So that means, there is always coolant in the core even with the heat turned off. With the heat turned off, if just sits there and of course it is not circulating. Also, no pressure. So, it would seem to me that a large leak would drip out all the time even when the car is parked overnight.. So, if I am right about this, it seems like if I have a leak, it is small and only leaks under pressure. I suppose it is possible that I had a leak and gunk in the cooling system plugged it up and it is okay for now.

I will be on the road with the car for about two hours today and the temp will be in the upper sixties. So, I will run the heater some and see what drips and analyze quickly before whatever would have a chance to dry up. I will also really try to see if I can smell coolant with the heat on.

I will hold off using any kind of stop leak magic for now.

That is this morning's update.

Intake manifold

Dave
View attachment 342694

 

[donalds]

All the vehicle adhesives or sealants like this supposed to be an a temporary fix only (dont count on marketing tricks)

K-seal is a permanent fix its used on the forums tons
head gaskets radiator ect....