Work in progress, TONS of pics.

[awdrocks]

The damage that would occur from normal driving is minimal to none when the front tires are spinning at the same speed as the rear. It's when there is a big difference in speed that severe damage would occur. Removing the drive shaft would not separate the clutches. But with the drive shaft removed I would think that there would be very little chance of damage since the front clutches would be able to spin freely without the drag put on them by the front tires.

Yeah that's what I meant, I know it wont actually separate the clutches, but the drag then would be taken off.

 

[techieman33]

Yeah that's what I meant, I know it wont actually separate the clutches, but the drag then would be taken off.

Yeah as long as the drive shaft is removed you shouldn't have any problems

 

[awdrocks]

Yeah as long as the drive shaft is removed you shouldn't have any problems

Cool I think ill do that for the dyno pulls just to be safe.

 

[CDW6212R]

Cool I think ill do that for the dyno pulls just to be safe.

Ditto, that's my plan as well if I get to a dyno later.

Those clutches are not very strong compared to what people think of for a trans. They can hold the two parts together well in normal use and when the speeds are close. Just don't go nuts with burnouts regularly and assume nothing bad can happen. Over time the clutches can wear out, it's just about how fast.

 

[awdrocks]

So do you think that by removing th front drive shaft I will be able to leave the BMW on "ON" A-4x4?

 

[CDW6212R]

I know what you mean, will the PCM see that the signal isn't reaching the transfer case. I think you can find out quickly now just by turning the BWM on and off. If it throws a code, then you will want to figure out how it knows that. So if that happens, trick it to think the signal is getting through. It's a simple single wire, if needed that wouldn't be hard to fix.

 

[Limited02]

I do believe that if he was to do a burnout for a prolonged period of time and multiples a day, then he would have have some problems. But to do a 15 second burnout everynow and then, he should be fine. But it he wants to be safe, then take out the driveshaft and put it into 4x4. That way it always running and never slipping.

This is a subject that has been beaten to death and maybe some people have more luck than others. I will still yank a fuse out if I feel like doing a small burnout. In about 2-3 months, I am getting new tires and I am going to give the old ones a proper farewell

Smoke tires not drugs

 

[xplorerguru]

Smoke tires not drugs

You would say that::

 

[awdrocks]

I just got the drive shaft off, well almost . My X pipe is in the way so I cant drop it to the floor. I'm going to have to tie ip up out of the way of any spinning parts.

I will raise all four tires tomorrow and do a test in 2wd to see if the transfer case spins with no drag from the drive shaft and wheels.

But first I need to go to a machine shop to surface flat my alternator bracket 6.01mm to align my belt, yes its that far off! I also need to shim my AC pulley .055 and the blower pulley .049, then my belt should be pretty much dead on.

I had to move my appointment with JBA for Friday morning.

 

[awdrocks]

Not sure if ill be able to do the test today, the machine shop has my alternator bracket and is machining it to fix my pulley alignment and it will be done between now and 10pm! So ill prob be up late doing the last preparations for tomorrow morning delivery to JBA for the tuning.

 

[techieman33]

I do believe that if he was to do a burnout for a prolonged period of time and multiples a day, then he would have have some problems. But to do a 15 second burnout everynow and then, he should be fine. But it he wants to be safe, then take out the driveshaft and put it into 4x4. That way it always running and never slipping.

This is a subject that has been beaten to death and maybe some people have more luck than others. I will still yank a fuse out if I feel like doing a small burnout. In about 2-3 months, I am getting new tires and I am going to give the old ones a proper farewell

Smoke tires not drugs

Any burnout of any length of time would put stress on the transfer case that would most likely cause premature wear on the clutches and other components. Which will eventually cause it to fail. We're not saying he can't do burnouts, just warning him of the consequences if it's done on a regular basis.

 

[CDW6212R]

Alex, how did the pulleys end up off line that much? I had an issue with my first aftermarket alternator. The belt lined up, but I noticed that it was extremely close to the alternator body. I changed to an over drive pulley, and that located the belt outward about 1/8", I took it back off and removed some material. I hope that kind of stuff is rare to need to do.

The clutches in the TC will be riding close together, but we are guessing at how much they touch. I will guess that they barely make contact without being energized. If that is the case, then it would take a very long time to create any wear from a burnout. It is likely that each burnout is equivalent to say 100 miles of driving. If you have 100,000 miles of service life in total, that is being reduced by 100 miles each time etc. The 100 mile figure is not accurate, just my guess, and definitely debatable.

 

[awdrocks]

Yeah the AED alternator bracket was not made right. I got it fixed. Here is a pic of the bracket machined and the shims for the other pulleys.

 

[awdrocks]

Here's the BWM test to see if the transfer case spin while in 2WD with no drag from the front drive shaft and front wheels (obviously if the driveshaft is removed).

I also made sure the relay was activating during each test.

This is while "IN" A-4x4

"IN" 2WD mode

In both modes the transfer case is spinning.

 

[techieman33]

Well I'd say that answers that question, thanks taking the video and clearing that up a little more.

 

[CDW6212R]

Very good, the friction of the clutches touching while in 2WD(BWM), that still turns the output shaft. It wouldn't take much to hold that still, but that friction is a source of slippage any time the rears spin and the front don't.

The rear LS clutches are very small and wear out over time from the two sides spinning at different speeds. That takes years usually, but you can kill an LS fast if you constantly hit the gas with one tire on gravel/mud/snow.

 

[awdrocks]

Just left the shop from dropping off the X. Great group of guys at JBA. Hoping all turns out well.

Seems my tranny is finally the next victim. Getting quite a bit of slipping when shifting from 2nd to 3rd and 3rd to 4th! Noticed it on my drive up to the shop.

We checked the fluid and there's plenty in there. I guess as long as it can be locked in 4th gear and doesn't slip we should be good. It seems to only be during gear changes.

 

[awdrocks]

Anyone with some knowledge on what can cause the slipping gear changes? I would hate to do an entire rebuild if it doesn't need it.

Check this out:

http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_PTS_Automatic_Bulletproof_Rebuilding_Kit_p/fordctl-fo110-5000.htm

http://www.levelten.com/Level_10_PTS_Valvebody_p/fordctl-fo210-5000.htm

http://www.levelten.com/category_s/34.htm

Level 10 is the ONLY company I have been able to find to have anything aftermarket for these 5R55W's.

 

[CDW6212R]

I dealt with Pat Barrett, owner of Level 10, long ago. He was very good then about helping to collect parts for my AOD.

Their pricing changed dramatically after that first $209 of parts I got then. I tried to buy the exact same parts, and they were asking over $400 then. That $500 is too much for just really nice steels/frictions, and a rebuild kit. You can buy the kit that has basic seals etc. for under $100, the steels and frictions can be had in a couple of quality choices.

The shift kits are not all the same from the trans companies, be very selective about what shift kits you work with. The rebuild kits with or without steels/frictions can be had from few sources, for under $250 or so, depending on what kind of steels/frictions are wanted. The top end stuff is what pushes the prices near $250. The normal rebuild kits will be under $150, including bands.

Spend more time researching the shift kits, who has them and how do they work. There are many little things that can improve a trans, 99% of that stuff comes from Sonnax. Spend a good bit of time finding out what Sonnax has for your trans.

 

[awdrocks]

Thanks for the info Don. Just called Sonnax and they are closed.