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Work in progress, TONS of pics.

For fun, and anti-carjacking. I have thought about things like that.

I prefer the idea of a secret button used only to maintain engine function, a button which must be pushed to disable a kill circuit each time the engine starts. That would require such a kill circuit that allows the engine start, but shuts the engine down if the special button isn't pressed. The Jacob's ignition systems used to have that feature. The special circuit was a ground required, meaning you could hard wire it if you didn't like it, or run it to a momentary switch. I would like that, and feed the circuit with a relay. The relay is triggered by any switch you like, thus pick an existing button, like RR window up.
 



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He's not AWD, he has A4WD, automatic four wheel drive.

AWD has no electronics, no switches, and only one gear ratio, it is constant all wheel drive.

I know the difference between the 2 systems, but I thought he was AWD that's all...
 






No harm meant, Alex just likes the AWD name, and so do I. I'd stay with it if I thought it was strong enough.
 






No harm meant, Alex just likes the AWD name, and so do I. I'd stay with it if I thought it was strong enough.

Yeah when I created my username I didn't know the difference between AWD and part-time 4x4 :).

It's worked out though because now I own an AWD Talon :D
 






man you have me so excited to come home haha. i don't know how my truck is gonna compare to yours but i can't wait to get my motor in with the KB supercharger. your truck sounds so sick. make sure you take some videos of the dyno pulls i wanna hear this. what year talon? my brother an i bought a 1998 eclipse gsx 5 speed to build up
 






Oh I'll get vids of the final power pulls for sure.

It's a 1st gen 90' TSI. Doing some MAJOR work to it also. Shep tranny, built motor, turbo, major body work painting it ect... Doing all the work in my garage. If all goes well with my tuning on the X, then some passes at the track and im home free because then ill just cruise the X. Then moving onto the finishing of the Talon.

Then once the Talon is done ill add the turbo + SC to the X.
 












haha you're crazy. you and rocket inspired me on my mountaineer. but get that thing tuned i wanna see it
 












Oh, those talons can be really quick, I've been in a 15psi car, long ago in about 1999. I've got a turbo from one that was intended for a twin turbo 302. All I know is to start with the manual turbos. There was a 31psi Talon on Pass Time tonight, he granny shifted it and barely ran 12.50. I guessed 11.40, just before the resident pro did, it was a $300 pass. Night,
 






I saw that on pass time tonight!!! I thought he would do better because he had like 31-33lbs of boost.

Looking forward to seeing how she runs! Now that the BWM is done, looking forward to LONG LONG burnouts:) I am really getting the urge to buy some more performance mods, but my girl and I are looking at getting a house because our lease is up at the end of July. I NEED A GARAGE!!! So I have to save my pennies:(
 






Yeah these things can move. Just got done on a nice upgrade on a 92' with a Holset 35/40 turbo we got 33 psi and 555whp on 91 oct gas with meth injection. Fastest car I have ever driven for sure. It was a high 9sec car. Took it to a track in Cancun and passed the traps at about 135mph and the track was 165ft short of 1320. Had every bell and whistle, full street weight car.

No need to waste your money on expensive Garrets. You can do some amazing things with Holsets. I'll prob a nice Holset on the X when it goes dual powered, maybe like a 40/52.
 






i was looking at the torktech superchargers but i have never really heard too much about them. is it a good setup? i like that they sell adaptors to fit it to the 4.6 or 5.4 and most ford motors also. i know i could dump off the kb to one of my GT buddies but i don't know if it would really beworth it.
 






No harm meant, Alex just likes the AWD name, and so do I. I'd stay with it if I thought it was strong enough.

No harm taken :D.

AWD does what I need it to do, if I need Low Range I can just hop in the '93.

Yeah when I created my username I didn't know the difference between AWD and part-time 4x4 :).

It's worked out though because now I own an AWD Talon :D

Ah, heh.

Talon's are sick rides. good luck w/the build
 












I wouldn't get to excited about it, he'll be replacing transfer cases pretty often if he's doing that with it.

Yup. The clutches still touch eve w/BWM.
 






Yup. The clutches still touch eve w/BWM.

And how do we know this for sure? I posted a vid in the BWM link with my ex off the ground and when I put it into gear, the fronts DID NOT even attempt to move. I will be in Washington D.C. this weekend but when I get back, I am going to reattempt this and rev the motor up and see what happens.(the following weekend.)

I don't think it's as big of a deal as it's made out to be. It's one thing if you are towing the ex with the front wheels on the ground for hours on end, but doing a burnout for 30 seconds shouldn't do squat. And even if he turns the BWM on, the front driveshaft will still rotate via the wheels when he is driving normally. (So the clutches will be fine)

Vid-
http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=101_1270.flv
 






And how do we know this for sure? I posted a vid in the BWM link with my ex off the ground and when I put it into gear, the fronts DID NOT even attempt to move. I will be in Washington D.C. this weekend but when I get back, I am going to reattempt this and rev the motor up and see what happens.(the following weekend.)

I don't think it's as big of a deal as it's made out to be. It's one thing if you are towing the ex with the front wheels on the ground for hours on end, but doing a burnout for 30 seconds shouldn't do squat. And even if he turns the BWM on, the front driveshaft will still rotate via the wheels when he is driving normally. (So the clutches will be fine)

Vid-
http://s413.photobucket.com/albums/p...t=101_1270.flv

Just because the front tires aren't moving doesn't mean anything. The clutches are still touching each other and wearing away, they're just not making enough contact to transfer the power required to move the front wheels. Doing a short burnout on a rare occasion won't do to much damage, but doing so on a regular basis will destroy your transfer case. I've read about a few different people on this forum doing so.
 






Just because the front tires aren't moving doesn't mean anything. The clutches are still touching each other and wearing away, they're just not making enough contact to transfer the power required to move the front wheels. Doing a short burnout on a rare occasion won't do to much damage, but doing so on a regular basis will destroy your transfer case. I've read about a few different people on this forum doing so.

Well this is an interesting subject. Don will prob jump in as he might remember when I had this issue, or it might have been with Jon.

I drove from Cancun to San Diego with my SC on and a 90mm LMAF. I went to the track a few times, drove it all around SAn Diego with no issues. Then I decided to upgrade. One of the upgrades was a 2600 MAF. Well right after I installed it I started getting a blinking message in my message center "check transmission". Put the LMAF back on and the problem went away. So it seemed that it was isolated the new MAF calibrations in the tune.

My tuner worked on it for quite some time and after many flashes, he got it to go away.

Just a few days ago when I did my first drive again, I got the dam blinking message center. So I said, well its in my tune. I'll just continue finishing my truck and JBA can tune it out on the dyno.

The last upgrade I finished was the BWM. But I noticed I had the brown wire cut, so my entire trip from Cancun ir was cut. Well since I recently left my BWM funching as "on", A-4x4 working, the "check transmission" blinking light has not came back.

So now I don't know if my problem is the MAF tune or my transfer case having problems due to the BWM, or just the ECU detecting something when in 2wd.

If the clutches are touching, does the "damage" occur ONLY if the rear is spinning faster than the front tires like in a burn out? If so, then my transfer case should be fine as I have not done any burn outs.

Would disconnecting the front drive shaft make the clutches not touch? I can't remember how it's set up down stairs.
 



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Well this is an interesting subject. Don will prob jump in as he might remember when I had this issue, or it might have been with Jon.

I drove from Cancun to San Diego with my SC on and a 90mm LMAF. I went to the track a few times, drove it all around SAn Diego with no issues. Then I decided to upgrade. One of the upgrades was a 2600 MAF. Well right after I installed it I started getting a blinking message in my message center "check transmission". Put the LMAF back on and the problem went away. So it seemed that it was isolated the new MAF calibrations in the tune.

My tuner worked on it for quite some time and after many flashes, he got it to go away.

Just a few days ago when I did my first drive again, I got the dam blinking message center. So I said, well its in my tune. I'll just continue finishing my truck and JBA can tune it out on the dyno.

The last upgrade I finished was the BWM. But I noticed I had the brown wire cut, so my entire trip from Cancun ir was cut. Well since I recently left my BWM funching as "on", A-4x4 working, the "check transmission" blinking light has not came back.

So now I don't know if my problem is the MAF tune or my transfer case having problems due to the BWM, or just the ECU detecting something when in 2wd.

If the clutches are touching, does the "damage" occur ONLY if the rear is spinning faster than the front tires like in a burn out? If so, then my transfer case should be fine as I have not done any burn outs.

Would disconnecting the front drive shaft make the clutches not touch? I can't remember how it's set up down stairs.

The damage that would occur from normal driving is minimal to none when the front tires are spinning at the same speed as the rear. It's when there is a big difference in speed that severe damage would occur. Removing the drive shaft would not separate the clutches. But with the drive shaft removed I would think that there would be very little chance of damage since the front clutches would be able to spin freely without the drag put on them by the front tires.
 






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