Yet Another 1994 A4LD Rebuild

[Yankee516]

Morning folks! Well, after sitting for about 8 months I'm finally getting around to rebuilding the transmission in my '94 XLT now that the weather is finally warmer. I was experiencing the common "no forward drive" situation where the car would only go into reverse. Checking the vacuum modulator and rebuilding the valve body made no change.

Before I start, I want to thank Glacier991, Josh and OperaHouse for their invaluable information and detailed instructions from their rebuilds. Throughout the winter I have studied up on their experiences, as well as familiarizing myself with the ATSG Overhaul and Update manuals. I don't think it is necessary to photo-document the entire process as the aforementioned gents have done a wonderful job already. What I hope to add is share my experience, ask some questions, and maybe insert some nuggets that will help others venturing into the same territory

For some history, I picked up the car for $600 from a friend about two years ago and it drove for about a year before going kaput. When I did the valve body I noticed transtech paper, so it had obviously been rebuilt at some point. I think the car has 159k on it, and was curious as to how a second transmission rebuild could possibly be due on such relatively low mileage on a daily street-only driver...

 

[Yankee516]

This weekend, we finally propped up the car dropped the transmission. Since I don't have a paved driveway, I didn't feel confident using jack stands. What we DO have is a bunch of cement tiles that we stacked up under the tires to keep her stable. Not ideal since it makes it more difficult to get the driveshaft bolts loose, but I just felt safer like this... parking brake set and wheels chocked:

Removing the transmission was very tight since we decided to keep the rusty exhaust system place. We also only disconnected the drive shafts at the transfer case and tied them up out of the way so we wouldn't have to disrupt the differentials.

Here are some Removal Notes that might be helpful from my experience if you are going to leave the exhaust in place:

* Remove the heat shield from the case so that it will not hit the cat or pipe when lowering.

* Remove the transmission vent tube completely so that it will give the extra couple of inches you will need for bell housing clearance. Also pull the transmission electrical wires up into the engine compartment for the same reason.

* The space available to remove the cooler lines is tight. Best to remove the transmission dipstick tube first. I had (in vain) been trying to remove the bolt from the engine compartment before realizing that the retaining bracket was actually attached to the top two bolts on the bellhousing. If you remove these, then you can lift the dipstick tube out and reach the oil lines with a wrench. Be careful since you'll be under the car and there will be oil coming out.

* You will need to find the right height of the transmission jack and angle of the transmission to clear everything... probably a mix of pulling back, lowering the jack, raising the bellhousing a couple of times over.

Once she's free you will feel like you have just given birth with all the labor and working upside down. Grab a drink and forget about the pain until you re-install. lol

 

[Yankee516]

OperaHouse had a great idea of using an engine stand to work on the transmission so I picked one up from Harbor Freight cheap. Before I mounted it, I removed the extension housing, valve body, shift shafts, z-link and parking prawl.

One note of caution: Since the transmission was right side up, I didn't notice the two bolts used to hold the shift cable retainer. When I was unbolting them the outer nut had turned the stud too, which bound up the retainer blocking its removal. Make sure that you hold the stud nut below the retainer when you are loosening the outer nut. (stupid me)

I mounted the case to the engine stand by using large metal washers and then a rubber washer at the case to protect the delicate aluminum. Perfecto! Now it is time for disassembly...

 

[Yankee516]

Last quick note on the disassembly before I have to get to work... As I mentioned this was a rebuild of an undetermined time/origin. I haven't looked in depth yet into each piece, but here were some cursory notes:

* The seal in the bellhousing had 5 stake marks, leading me to believe it was the original seal...or the rebuilder replaced it but didn't stake it. Never noticed a leak though...

* The Overdrive band had obvious black areas in an uneven pattern, leading me to believe it was pretty burnt up.

* The Center Support had a needle bearing on top instead of a thrust washer, so I was optimistic about the previous rebuild, until...

* HERE'S THE KICKER! When I removed the center support, lo and behold there was NO SELECTIVE THRUST WASHER THERE! Just the bare Intermediate Clutch Assembly!

Could THIS really be the reason why the transmission failed prematurely??? Not sure how much end play there is without the washer in place and what other parts could have been damaged by this omission.

I haven't yet disassembled all the assemblies to note if the rest of the thrust washers/bearings are correct... but reconciling the ATSG Update manual with the Overhaul Manual and comparing to what exists is challenging. And making sure that all the assemblies are using the internal proper parts for the model year.

Any input so far from the experts? Thanks!

 

[Yankee516]

Morning all,

Hate to leave the thread hanging. I've taken apart and bagged all the internal parts to the transmission, and rebuilt the overdrive, direct and forward clutches.

There is nothing more satisfying than easily seeing the cause of the problem, which in my case was a fried forward drum clutch pack. All of the frictions were worn down to the metal with practically no friction material left on them. Tracing it further, I found that the outer piston seal on the forward drum was torn to shreads. Anyone want to venture a guess as to whether the blown seal is the cause, or only a symptom?

One note for anyone doing a rebuild, make SURE you use the right forward drum cushion. The kit comes with two of them, and usage depends on which drum you have. Earlier models used a larger cushion and five friction/steels, while late models use the smaller one and 6 friction/steels. If you use the wrong one the clearance will be off by .031" or so.

I also didn't feel like spending the $80-$100 for a clutch spring compressor, so I just used 1"x1" wood blocks and a 4" C-Clamp depicted here: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262246. THANKS for the idea, MrQ!

The rest of the frictions in the direct and overdrive clutches looked perfect. So it appears that this transmission didn't have a lot of use on it before it burned out.

The rest of the internal parts all seem to be updated to the latest versions, such as the snap shell, planetary assemblies and needle bearings instead of thrust washers. Haven't found any mistakes so far, and apologize for the drama on the missing thrust washer under the center support. The Update manual had all the information I needed, but unless you re-read it many times you may miss an important thing or ten.

Cheers!

 

[Yankee516]

Morning,

Anyone have any thoughts on whether the blown seal on the front drum piston is a cause or only a symptom of the burnt out clutches? Or did the burned out clutches give the piston too much movement and the seal rubbed up against the upper edge of the piston groove? :scratch:

I'd hate to get it all back together, then have the forward clutches burn out again because I missed another part of the chain. As a side note, the overdrive band was burnt, but the intermediate band looked pretty new. Only other likely thoughts on the burn-out is the band out of adjustment, low pressure, or the index valve moving too far and energizing the clutch in park (did the index limiter from the kit in the last VB rebuild).

I am going to TRY to get everything put back together and reinstall the transmission this weekend. LUCKILY today's Nor'easter missed Long Island, so I'm not dealing with 6"-12" of snow that New England is getting. :notworthy

--Phil

 

[Fordexplorerguy1]

The foreward drum on mine was smoked and so was the seal on it. I pulled the c clip that holds the piston down and replaced all 3 seals...

 

[Yankee516]

Ditto on mine... rest actually looked pretty good! BTW, did you rebuild the valve body while you were in there?

Let me know when you get yours put back in successfully.

 

[Fordexplorerguy1]

I got mine reinstalled Just gotta hook up the cooler lines and tranny harness. Gotta put the transfer case up too. I inspected the valve body and Loosened up any stuck valves. My valve body came off ebay and all i did was install the servos and install. I also had torn valve body gaskets and on the reverse servo cover. Everything else in the transmission was unharmed besides the governor sticking and 1st gear being smoked.
so it all should work well when i test it. goodluck on yours! When you put it back dont forget the Center support snap ring like i did... and make sure the od anchor support isnt upside down either I had to go back and fix that

 

[Fordexplorerguy1]

How i pulled my a4ld...

Id just like to add how i pulled mine down because a lot of people ask and I like a lot of people dont have a transmission jack.

First thing i did was drop the transfer case etc.. Unplug the harness and pull it into the engine bay... Disconnect the modulator tube Remove starter and tc bolts etc... I had it a lot harder because i was on a slant With no transmission jack... basically i Had 2 jacks some blocks of wood and a car battery... I Got the trans balanced on the two jacks and inched it back until i could get it behind the radius arm cross member then squared on the battery. i lowered the jacks and removed the battery from under it and Lowered it down till i had it on the ground. just my .02 cents..

 

[1993Mustang]

It my turn to try my hand at the A4LD rebuild

This will be my first transmission rebuild. I have done everything else on a car/truck/tractor but the Automatic Transmission

I just baught this sharp little convertible Mustang with the 2.3L engine and as I was driving it home I ran it hot and overheated the trans. I have no forward gears at all and after reading and talking I know this has to be done. I do have a request from those of you that have completed your task. Could I get someone ASTG sub. repair manual I would appreciate it. I just can not see spending $30.00 on a book that I will have a one time use. If you still have yours may I rent it from you?

Also thank you all for your post of your rebuilds. It will help mine go very smooth. I will tear into it in two or three weeks from this weekend.

I baught the car for my Daughter, it will be her first car so a cute little Mustang Convertible w/ a 2.3L engine AT seems perfect.

 

[wood1]

Brooklyn Bay has the ATSG repair manuals in PDF. if you want to PM him I am sure he will help you out.

Good for you guys for rebuilding your own trannys. Keep us up to date on your progress.

 

[1993Mustang]

Wood1

That would be great if you would do that. Thank You.

 

[wood1]

PM me with your email address and I will send you the pdf. I managed to find it

 

[Currency]

Id just like to add how i pulled mine down because a lot of people ask and I like a lot of people dont have a transmission jack.

First thing i did was drop the transfer case etc.. Unplug the harness and pull it into the engine bay... Disconnect the modulator tube Remove starter and tc bolts etc... I had it a lot harder because i was on a slant With no transmission jack... basically i Had 2 jacks some blocks of wood and a car battery... I Got the trans balanced on the two jacks and inched it back until i could get it behind the radius arm cross member then squared on the battery. i lowered the jacks and removed the battery from under it and Lowered it down till i had it on the ground. just my .02 cents..

Is that when pure muscle comes into play? Someone pull the last few bolts after everything is unhooked and muscle it down to the ground and slide it out? That is how my brother done is tranny on a 2003 GMC. He kept blowing the pump out, four times I believe.