Yomie....3/4 ton build up and install

[IZwack]

I think its perfect where it is -- if anything, I'd move the rear axle back an inch or something. But thats no big deal.

 

[Yomie]

I think its perfect where it is -- if anything, I'd move the rear axle back an inch or something. But thats no big deal.

I moved my rear axle back like you did IZ, but wish i could go a little more, i'm thinking about using the chevy 63" springs and moving the rear back another 5", i don't know yet, i'm gonna try it the way it is

As far as the front goes, i think i will leave the axle placed where it is at now and try it out, if i feel i need a little more, then i will flip the springs and move it forward

So i'm now planning to be at a 105.5" Wheelbase

 

[zainyD]

Time to bust out the sawzall and kill some sheet metal.

 

[034x4]

Time to get some wheels with less backspacing too.

 

[Yomie]

Time to get some wheels with less backspacing too.

lol, you don't like it

I plan on ordering up some double beadlocks

 

[034x4]

I love the look of a low and wide rig.

 

[Yomie]

Well did a little work today, its not 100% done

I still need to bypass ABS controller, redo shock mounts front and rear, install hydro-assist

out with the old

 

[IZwack]

So can we all agree that Yomie is the fastest worker on the forum?

 

[Yomie]

lol, 7 hours straight today, basically just swapping axles today and making steering

Got it up to about 50mph today and drive excellent with unbalanced tires and no rear shocks

The rear axle wraps up pretty bad just cruising, so an axle wrap bar is in order

 

[FROADER]

That looks MEAN!

 

[Yomie]

I did some research and my stock brake master cylinder has a 1.125" bore, which is enough to run these large brakes (stock '78 F-250 is only 1" bore). I still have the lines going through the ABS pump and i can still lock up all 4 tires at 30mph, the pedal is jsut a little soft, i believe i have air in the abs pump, so hopefully in the next week i plan on bypassing the ABS pump and see how they do, i have not yet installed the proportioning valve (not needed right now) but we will see when the ABS pump is removed

 

[IZwack]

I did some research and my stock brake master cylinder has a 1.125" bore, which is enough to run these large brakes (stock '78 F-250 is only 1" bore).

I know it sounds weird but the smaller the bore, the more pressure you're going to apply onto the brakes which means better gripping power when you're just about to crest a drop ("pucker" moment!).

A fundamental of hydraulics:
Pressure = Force / Area

With a constant Force coming from your foot and to brake lever/pedal (assisted by the booster), you can kinda see that dividing the Force by a smaller Area will result in larger Pressure. Smaller area of course means smaller bore.

So what you might want to do is switch over to the smaller 1.00" bore or maybe even 7/8" -- I know the 7/8" exists cauz some off-roaders use em.

Of course theres no such thing as a free meal so the downside of this is that the brake pedal has to move just a little bit more in order to move the same amount of brake fluid to fill the cylinders in the calipers.

 

[Yomie]

Yeah i know, i read alot of the wars on pirate, everyone on there says move to a 1.25" bore, which i don't like...I'm definitely not going any larger in bore size. I wan't to see how they do without the abs pump first before i make any decisions, but they actually feel pretty good right now. Once i get the pump out, i'm gong to test the holding capacity in a ditch or something.

 

[section525]

Whats your plan for the ABS? I'd like to remove mine in the next year or so.

 

[Yomie]

Whats your plan for the ABS? I'd like to remove mine in the next year or so.

I"m going to run the front port (on the M/C) straight to the rear line, and the rear (firewall) port to a t-split and to both the fronts.

For some reason i don't think that waht your talking about, if that not the answer you were looking for please elaborate

I thought you already removed your ABS

Since i have a '97 i do not need any part of my abs pump system for anything, and i got tired of looking at the ABS light on the dash a few years ago, so i went ahead and pulled the bulb out

 

[section525]

No.. thats what I was talking about. I haven't removed the ABS module yet. I need to though so I can get some new shock hoops made and in place. I'm just waiting for a 'brake line flaring how-to' to show up. IZ and I found a so-called Explorer M/C with a built-in proportioning valve I'm gonna try out.

 

[Yomie]

Brake line flaring...ugh yeah, I know at napa you can buy sections of line with ends already on them, i am probably gonna go that route. With my rear axle i bought a section that is 40" long and another that is 20" long.....makes it so much easier

With the brake lines i will unmount them from the ABS module and just use a t-fitting for the fronts and the rear where i disconnect them i will probably put in the prop valve, makes it so i don't have to flare lines. It may not be the 'cleanest' way, but then i don't have to worry about leaky flares. I tried flaring lines when i did my first sas and it didn't turn out pretty, i'm not a good flarer, lol

 

[410Fortune]

How about an F-250 hydraulic booster setup

Looks nice, you have tire coverage laws in your area? LOL

 

[Burns]

Brake line flaring...ugh yeah, I know at napa you can buy sections of line with ends already on them, i am probably gonna go that route. With my rear axle i bought a section that is 40" long and another that is 20" long.....makes it so much easier

This is exactly what i did with mine. Its very easy this way

Looks awesome and you are a very fast worker

 

[034x4]

The rear axle wraps up pretty bad just cruising, so an axle wrap bar is in order

How about 4 of them?

Looks good btw. now paint it odg

Edit: When you puttin the blocks in? or you just haven't trimmed the u-botls yet?