Inner Tie Rod Removal and Replacement (Pictures)

[CDW6212R]

The large steel clamp is a crush clamp, a special $15 tool makes that tight. Evan used a screwdriver to pry them open/loose. I noticed that he didn't get new clamps with his ends, and used a zip tie to replace the steel clamp. That should work fine, I bought my tie rods from Ford(with clamps), and I had the tool from doing axles prior.

That vent pipe should easily slip or pull out of the boots. Take your time and keep everything clean. Good luck,

 

[Texplorer]

Thanks for the quick response, so I def wont be using that clamp again. Thats ok, I have plenty of zip-ties. As for the hose, Im not worried so much about it coming off. What I want to know is how to get it back on.

 

[CDW6212R]

It's a tube/pipe and the distance between the two boots which it goes into is constant. The boots hold it together.

 

[Texplorer]

Ok, I got the assembly off the truck. Now on to my next problem, any tips on how the hell to get the inner and outer tie rods seperated?? Ive currently got the outer tie rod in a clamp on my workbench and the 13mm wrench just isnt cuttin it. Luckly there is ample spots to grab the inner with the wrench because Ive rounded part of it already.

 

[Dan Whitaker]

On mine I took the outer tie rod off with it still attached to the steering knuckle. This way you have something to hold it.

As for removing the inner clamp you need a long blade screw driver & a hammer. Put the tip of the screw driver against the tab pf the clamp and give it a couple of whacks with the hammer. It will come right off.

 

[frickea86]

tex, hey man long time no talk....

the inner boot clamp is a one time use only clamp, and you need to get up in there with needle nose and you'll see almost a small loop in it, you need to put the plyers there and twist, it will break the clamp off. now ford doesn't make these and what they recommend is you just use two zip ties and tighten them as hard as you can. i know i was kind of worried about water an crap getting up near the ram but mine has held for over 5 months now.

also, that tube your talking about, yeah i have that too on mine, all it is, is a breather tube for the inner tie rod boot. i found mine actually had a vacuum on it when i pulled the boot off. once you get that clamp off you should have no problem just pulling the boot straight off. it will also come off the breather tube as well. there should be no problem with putting the boot back on, you should be able to just slide it back over the rack and it should slide back into the vacuum tube, just make sure you have the boot correctly positioned when you put it back on.

awesome how-to guy, very nice Evan.

Edit: haha, i didn't see a page two, this question was already answered, my bad.

 

[Texplorer]

Yeah man no kidding, last time I saw you was Carlisle a few years back.

On another note......... IM DONE!!!!!!!!!!!!
Ill post up a write-up and pics after I got home from work tonight, thanks for everyones help. I couldnt have done it without this thread.

 

[Lefy]

good write up!!
that was super easy

 

[j.cranor]

In my never ending quest to locate this elusive front end noise, the next item to investigate is the inner tie rod. If the truck is on the ground and I try to shake the tie rod (holding the tie rod where it connects to the tie rod end) no noise and no movement, but if I hold the tie rod in the same place and rock the truck up and down via the tow hook, I hear a noise and feel a pop at the connection. Is this indicative of a bad inner tie rod or should this noise occur naturally. I've had to align the truck 3 times in 65K miles and every time the toe needed adjustment. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[LuMax]

Anyone know what size the inner nut that connects the tie rod to the rack is?

I don't have a pipe wrench, so I plan to buy a proper sized wrench.

(BTW: 70K on my '99 AWD V8 EB. I just put new Michelin LTX M/S tires on it yesterday and will be changing both UCA's, LBJ's, front shocks, and replacing the stock sway bar bushings with the Energy Suspension kit this weekend. Wish me luck! I also just swapped out the rear sway bar with a beefier Hellwig model and replaced the worn end links with the Moog K80085 & K80139).

 

[Turdle]

Just my .02
A pipe wrench will be more versatile in your tool box, and cost less I would bet.

they are around 15-20 bux

 

[CDW6212R]

I used a large crescent wrench, it was over 1.25" I believe. All four of my tie rods were still good at 174k miles, they do great in normal use.

 

[LuMax]

I actually found two pipe wrenches in the bottom drawer of my toolbox that I had forgotten about. It's been a long time since I used them last.

Anyone looking for something to do Thursday?

<one day later>

Whew! Done. Can you spot all of the new parts? (I'll get the tie rods checked in the morning at the dealer when I go in for the alignment)

 

[ramren16]

i have maybe a stupid question, i just bought 2 inner tierod ends from the local parts store, it came with a little tube of lock tight and a packet of grease where does the grease go? i assume it goes around the joint in the tierod end right

 

[corkey]

this will make it alot easier for me to change the steering rack, it makes it easier to get the rack out of the frame,
great writeup

 

[dean1997sport]

Thanks for the great write up!

Man these were shot! the ends were not to bad but the inners dang! just drove it around the block feels much tighter need an alignment though no place open today. Followed the procedure in this forum "piece of cake" thanks for the great write up I used the ziptie method and the only real hard part was getting to boot back on and the fact that its 100.000 degrees out side today.LOL
Thank you guys

 

[LuMax]

I'll also add my thanks for a great writeup.

I've been bothered by some minor clicking and popping coming through the steering, initially assumed it was the CV joints but it turned out to be the tie rods.

Swapped all 4 out Tuesday morning followed by an alignment that afternoon and the clicks and pops are gone. Procedure was pretty straightforward.

One thing I will add is that on my '99 there was a metal tube that connects to the breather holes on both of the inner tie rod rubber boots (connects them together in a way) I almost missed putting this back in place until I accidentally hit it with my hand and heard it rattle.

Getting the inner zip ties on and tight took some dexterity but I managed to get them snugged up to.

Thanks again.

 

[duke16]

Just went to get an alignment and was told there is to much play in my inner tie rods. Does it make sense to go ahead and replace the outers at the same time? I have 133,804 miles on them.

How do I tell when the inners and outers need replacing? Truck squeaks and pops a lot.

 

[LuMax]

Just went to get an alignment and was told there is to much play in my inner tie rods. Does it make sense to go ahead and replace the outers at the same time? I have 133,804 miles on them.

How do I tell when the inners and outers need replacing? Truck squeaks and pops a lot.

If there is play in them I would definitely replace them. Only $28 each at rockauto.com for the better quality (i.e. non service grade) ones. I generally find that spending a few extra bucks on parts by not buying the cheapest possible usually is worth it. The slightly pricier ones also have grease zerks on them vs. stock.

My truck handles & rides like it is brand new after the work I've done on it.

 

[dhewey71]

How long did this take to do?