Who has dumped their ARC for regular shocks? Recommendations please...

[CDW6212R]

Any new shocks will be great compared to any old shocks. You can not compare new shocks to old shocks, only one new shock to a different new shock. All old shocks are junk(poor ride and handling).

 

[cloud2or3]

HELP > Which part?

I may have a connection for Addco sway bars up here in Canada. But I'm confused on the Part numbers...

Zabteck description lead me to research so I wouldn't enquire on the wrong items. Their site says...

"01-05 Sport Trac Front and Rear Addco Sway Bars
(Also fits 98-02 Ford Explorer and 98-02 Mercury Mountaineer)"

But I came across this site with all the offerings, different years and 'sizes' of the bars with SKU's

http://www.suspensionconnection.com...e/to=x/tf=model/to=x/tf=description/to=r.html

I'm thinking the Rear EE still, but if needed to take it up a notch, and save a bit, i might get the front Addco locally.

Will the 1998+ option from Addco fit on my 1997 SOHC?

 

[swshawaii]

Oh, BTW, I have the Addco front bar on my Mountaineer. I like it, I'm an old customer of theirs. But don't use the hardware they provide, I knew that before I bought the bar. They make great bars, but the hardware is poor quality. Don't use the front frame brackets at all, they do not attach properly to the frame(bolt heads contact the bracket way before being tight). The result will be either bent bolts, and/or broken bolts due to the bolts not seating flush with the bracket/frame. I have custom made frame brackets.

Don has installed a front Addco (Reply #8). I'm sure he will be chiming in.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=239078&highlight=solid+front+sway+bar

 

[cloud2or3]

I want as close to bolt on as possible. I know where the bars mount switch from 98 onwards to under the frame, from in front of the frame 97 earlier.

The 1 1/2" (98-01) vs the 1 3/8" (95-97) is probably not worth the trouble for me to manipulate the mounting, etc...

 

[swshawaii]

Ford revised the front sway bar for 98 models. They are now solid like our 95-97 part.
These vehicles require only a rear sway bar to upgrade to X spec.
Bar is 1.125 dia with Energy Suspension poly bushings.

The rear alone should dramatically improve the handling. You may find it adequate without changing the front.
Also consider finding a stock '98 or newer solid front bar that bolts on. I'm still using a 1 1/8" stock front on my ST.
The difference of adding on the rear sway bar alone was jaw dropping. Do the rear first, you will see what we mean.

 

[CDW6212R]

Do the rear first, the balance of handling is already biased a lot in stock condition. The front is not a big deal, my truck handled very well with just the EE kit(rear bar included).

If you still will consider swapping to the Addco front bar next, I suggest first finding out if the 98-01 mounting method will work on the 95-97's.

I have posted in at least two threads from years ago where people with the 95-97 wanted to upgrade to the 98-01 bar. Supposedly the holes or dimples are actually in place on the frame. I'm not sure I believe that, but still the question becomes is the frame shaped the same there, and do both bars locate in exactly the same place?

If you can confirm that the 95-97 trucks can take the "horizontal" mounting brackets, do that first. Actually remount your existing bar using the 98-01 frame locations. It may be as simple as changing the mounting brackets alone, the bushings should be the same.

 

[CDW6212R]

I may have a connection for Addco sway bars up here in Canada. But I'm confused on the Part numbers...

Zabteck description lead me to research so I wouldn't enquire on the wrong items. Their site says...

"01-05 Sport Trac Front and Rear Addco Sway Bars
(Also fits 98-02 Ford Explorer and 98-02 Mercury Mountaineer)"

But I came across this site with all the offerings, different years and 'sizes' of the bars with SKU's

http://www.suspensionconnection.com...e/to=x/tf=model/to=x/tf=description/to=r.html

I'm thinking the Rear EE still, but if needed to take it up a notch, and save a bit, i might get the front Addco locally.

Will the 1998+ option from Addco fit on my 1997 SOHC?

When you see parts applications which are not correct, you have to work harder and confirm the proper application data. The 2002 Explorers do not use any of the same parts as pre-2002 Explorers.

The Sport Trac has a bunch of the same parts, but it takes some research to figure out what is 2dr Sport, versus 4WD, or a unique part to the Sport Trac.

 

[SoNic67]

When you see parts applications which are not correct, you have to work harder and confirm the proper application data.

That site is full of errors. Pictures of front sway bars are labeled as rear, the rears are labeled as fronts. Sometimes they have the right picture...

 

[CDW6212R]

I was trying not to judge, I see that a lot on generic parts source sites too. People can read, but they can't read, and then type what they read back correctly.

As an example, the ARC systems are different from 95-98, and 99-01. You will find many places where the application years overlap. A 98-01 ARC module isn't for a 98 truck, that would be a 99-01 part. I know of that part on eBay now, from a trusted seller. I ran into that a bunch when hunting for my module, almost everyone listed a 95-98 part, and a 98-01 part, two different part numbers.

 

[cloud2or3]

My old rear sway bar endlinks...

When I put my summers on I thought I would take a few snaps to show you the current endlinks and see if you guys can comment on them... It looks like a pretty big gap in the lower portion between the bushings, I didnt did look to hard at the upper portion.

Drivers side...

Passenger side...

 

[SoNic67]

Push-pull on the link. If moves, it is toasted.

 

[CDW6212R]

Yes, those are toast. Mine looked similar to that, and when you get it apart you should find that the metal end holes are no longer round.

I drove my 98 today, I do like the firm sway bars I have, it feels like you are in a controlled roller coaster seat. I have virtually no sway with all but those rear links being urethane. I haven't driven it enough to decide yet whether it is just right, or could use a little more compliance at the front. Rubber end links would do that, but of course that affects the sway in hard turns too.

 

[cloud2or3]

Yes, those are toast. Mine looked similar to that, and when you get it apart you should find that the metal end holes are no longer round.

I drove my 98 today, I do like the firm sway bars I have, it feels like you are in a controlled roller coaster seat. I have virtually no sway with all but those rear links being urethane. I haven't driven it enough to decide yet whether it is just right, or could use a little more compliance at the front. Rubber end links would do that, but of course that affects the sway in hard turns too.

I ordered rear links today, an ALMOST ordered the rear sway from EE. But given the simplicity of the install on the links I actually wanted to see how much difference they made before I did the bar seeing as my links are shot.

The shop I usually buy my parts from only had 1 MOOG link available, so I went with their next best option. However I dont know if the bushings are rubber or polyurethane ...or...?

 

[cloud2or3]

I also went down to the place were I bought my new leafs and asked about having a helper leaf added...

He actually pointed me in another direction...

He said that the helper leaf might 'help' for an extra ~300lbs+ or so, but that for the same amount of money... I could get a much more cost effective solution that supports more weight and addresses many of my issues if I went with this > http://www.timbren.com/

Anyone have another supplier similar to Timbren?

Tell me what you think!

 

[CDW6212R]

I read about that several years ago, an did consider it. That is likely the best solution for a given stock height Explorer. Look under your truck again and notice how close the rear bump stops are to the rear housing. It does not take much weight or a huge bump to make the body drop that far down, and bottom out.

Mine is only a couple of inches clearance there, and I have the 1.375" lowering blocks. So I would have 50% more travel in the back if I was at stock height.

You probably will not bottom out in the back unless you have a large load back there, say 200lbs, or more.

 

[cloud2or3]

I read about that several years ago, an did consider it. That is likely the best solution for a given stock height Explorer. Look under your truck again and notice how close the rear bump stops are to the rear housing. It does not take much weight or a huge bump to make the body drop that far down, and bottom out.

Mine is only a couple of inches clearance there, and I have the 1.375" lowering blocks. So I would have 50% more travel in the back if I was at stock height.

You probably will not bottom out in the back unless you have a large load back there, say 200lbs, or more.

Lost my measuring tape... nice...

Remember I've got the ARC system, so height is less an issue. Even with weight I don't bottom out. I.m certain I have more than 200lbs. It would be more for the handling, roll, and sway issue to be addressed.

You essentially uninstall the original bump stop, and install the product in its place. There are also spacers included that allow you to set the distance between the part and the axle. They say to aim for 1/2" to 1" depending on your preference.

I still think the sway bar is the way to go, but if I need even more support I'm gonna go with this over an added leaf.

Don, I think this product would be a good consideration for you too.

 

[CDW6212R]

Those cute little bump stop bags will help with normal driving load capacity, minor in handling compared to an anti-sway bar.

The EE sway bar will make a huge improvement in handling, nothing else will be close. Keeping the bushings and other parts in good shape is the next step.

I might have to try the Timbren product if I cannot find a leaf spring rate that works for the height I want.

I may get far enough along some day to go one step farther for handling. The leaf springs are not good for handling, the whole back end is allowed to move left and right too easily. If I can make one fit, I'd like to install a panhard bar, which locks the rear side to side with the body. That would make these top heavy trucks safer in turns.

 

[Cranmaro99]

Okay... The shock conversion kits from Strutmasters are installed.

The photos show the new shocks, old shocks - front right was leaking, and the heights of the rear wheel well and rear bumper, before and after. The height of the front only went up one inch so no photos.

The ride is now FANTASTIC. This conversion was worth every penny. I also had to get new tires, since I was running four slicks. The combination of the two makes the ride just like it was new again.

The install went very smooth in under two hours. I did not do the work. My buddy was the mechanic and I only heard him cuss once - banged his head. Everything else was smooth. These were the original air ride shocks - 141,000 miles.

I don't take this truck off road so I don't anticipate any problems with the original soft springs that Ford has in this vehicle. This is a Limited and was supposed to ride soft.

I have not tackled disconnecting (cutting) the wire for the alert on the console. I've had the system off for about three years so it really doesn't bother me. Strutmasters provided the wiring diagram; I just don't want to mess with the wiring behind the radio and console. Maybe another day.

I'm not sure how to post a photo so here is a link to the gallery.

http://www.belphotos.com/Other/Shock-Replacement/22898452_W7PT5k

I'm very glad you like their shocks! The ONLY thing I worry about is that I do place heavy loads in my Explorer, and I DO NOT WANT TO CHANGE MY LEAF SPRINGS. I don't want to dump money into this Explorer, but the rear ARC shocks are toast and the pump is running all the time. The fact that the rear shocks lifted the rear end a bit is good to see.

 

[Cranmaro99]

^^^ Did those Strutmaster shocks really raise the rear that much? I've never seen shock-replacement style shocks do that, and my rear ARCS are leaking and I want to find the cheapest replacement possible. I do carry loads and the springs are sagging some.

 

[VinnieBoombots]

^^^ Did those Strutmaster shocks really raise the rear that much? I've never seen shock-replacement style shocks do that, and my rear ARCS are leaking and I want to find the cheapest replacement possible. I do carry loads and the springs are sagging some.

I purchased this truck new in '96. It always rode lower than any other Explorer I pulled up alongside. Even when I had the ARC on it rode low and soft. When new it was like driving a Caddy or a Lincoln. Gradually, over the years that disappeared.

The only time the truck rose is when I put some weight in the back or in 4WD; and then it was only about an inch.

I had no idea what to expect with the conversion kit from Strutmasters. I've also coupled the new shocks with four new tires - P235/75R15's. All other major parts on the truck are original, i.e., rear springs, shackles, exhaust system, etc. Spent a lot of time in SoCal and Nevada, so I'm guessing that the no snow, no salted roads, mostly dry air was good for the vehicle.

I am very happy with ride and the new height. As shown the rear went up quite a bit. The front only about an inch. The ride is better than I remember when it was new.