Rounded off caliper bracket bolt heads in the rustbelt

[sehaare]

Got the driver's side brakes done with no issue. When I went to do the passenger side brakes the caliper bracket bolts were pretty rusted up. So I wire brushed them by hand and soaked everything in Kroil for a day. Finally went at it tonight and they both rounded off. I've ordered this from amazon and it will be here in two days.

Amazon product ASIN B002Z32PGM

If that doesn't work I'm about to clean up the pads and rotor, reinstall and button it all back up and drive it 4 blocks to a local shop. I'm really beginning to hate rust.

I don't have a torch, has anyone resorted to grinding the bolt heads off and sliding the bracket and rotor off together. I can get a new bracket pretty easy.

Thanks

 

[CDW6212R]

Have you removed the 17mm caliper to spindle bolts? I never remove the caliper small bracket bolts, those have grease in the boots and can get contaminated by removing them. Those only need servicing every many many years apart, say once in ten years. I do brakes about every year on one of my many Fords, and I do those greased bolts no more than about once every ten years, just for the hell of it to be sure the grease is good and the rubber boots still seal.

The big caliper bolts are very tight, they should be almost lug nut tight, 75lbft or near that. I use a long swiveling 3/8" ratchet and a six point deep well socket, I've never rounded one of those bolt heads off. When you put those big bolts back in, place one small drop of red loctite on them, just one drop. That will keep them from loosening if you get them properly tight.

 

[sehaare]

Have you removed the 17mm caliper to spindle bolts? I never remove the caliper small bracket bolts, those have grease in the boots and can get contaminated by removing them. Those only need servicing every many many years apart, say once in ten years. I do brakes about every year on one of my many Fords, and I do those greased bolts no more than about once every ten years, just for the hell of it to be sure the grease is good and the rubber boots still seal.

The big caliper bolts are very tight, they should be almost lug nut tight, 75lbft or near that. I use a long swiveling 3/8" ratchet and a six point deep well socket, I've never rounded one of those bolt heads off. When you put those big bolts back in, place one small drop of red loctite on them, just one drop. That will keep them from loosening if you get them properly tight.

The caliper pin/slide bolts were relatively easy. Got the caliper up and out of the way. it is the 15mm (at least on the 98 it is 15mm) bracket bolts that are rounded off. Before I ever put a wrench on them I was already screwed, used a quality craftsman 6 point inpact socket and a short breaker bar making sure that the socket was completely seated. The socket never slid off it just started to spin on the bolt head before the bolt broke free.

That's the difference between working on cars in Knoxville and Chicagoland. I was in the Navy for 20 years and spent 10 of them south of the Mason-Dixon. Working on cars down there was a snap. Up in the rustbelt the road salt is like a cancer that eats everything up. Anytime you touch anything under the car you are taking a risk of something rounding off or snapping. Now that I'm 59 to quote Danny Glover "I'm getting too old for this ****".

 

[CDW6212R]

I'm 57 and I feel all of the old man jokes too. I don't do the things I used to, and what I do, is slower and harder.

I'm sorry, yes I meant 15mm, those bolts are the same head size as the hub bolts next to them. I think mine are due though also, this reminds me.

BTW, try not to use impact sockets, those are not as tight fitting as normal sockets, they are more likely to round off a bolt head.

Here below is what I did with those bolts on my 98 Mercury, I made custom brackets and mounted them from the outer side. So I have fixed calipers on that truck, with a grade eight 5/8" bolt I think they were.

 

[C420sailor]

Carefully grinding works, just be extra careful to avoid grinding the steering knuckle.

If you have access to a welder, you can then weld big nuts to the end of the shanks, and blast them out. That’ll keep you from having to find another bracket.

Welcome to the north. I too got out of the Navy and moved north of the Mason Dixon—what a mistake.

 

[sehaare]

Carefully grinding works, just be extra careful to avoid grinding the steering knuckle.

If you have access to a welder, you can then weld big nuts to the end of the shanks, and blast them out. That’ll keep you from having to find another bracket.

Welcome to the north. I too got out of the Navy and moved north of the Mason Dixon—what a mistake.

While I spent 17 years working in boilers with welding going on all around me, but I've never struck an arc in my life. One thing that just never got punched on my man card. I'm semi-retired now so maybe I'll go take a welding class sometime just for the hell of it. Although not being able to weld has probably kept me from doing a lot of stupid stuff.

I've got this coming late tomorrow and I'll give it a try first.

Amazon product ASIN B002Z32PGM

And if that doesn't work, I've been going through my head what tools I have to try and cut off those bolt heads. I've got a harbor freight air compressor and die grinder, I've got a 12V Milwaukee 3"cut off saw, a 12 V Milwaukee hackzall (great one-handed tool), a 18V Milwaukee super sawzall ( a fricken beast), a 12V Milwaukee oscillating tool (never tried cutting a bolt this big with it, but there is always a first time), and a couple of Dremels.

If I can get in there with the big tools to cut the head close to the steering knuckle then I could probably finish up with one of the Dremels to prevent hitting the steering knuckle. Since I have to wait another day for the socket to arrive, I can use today to see which tools will fit in there. And this might be a good excuse to buy myself a Milwaukee die grinder to play with while I'm at it.

 

[donalds]

Put that new extractor on and tap it down with a hammer and give her hell
Spray some more oil on it so it can soak

 

[CDW6212R]

Best of luck to get the bolts out without too much trouble. Kroil was the right thing to use to start with, and I just received another can of that this Tuesday, $20 from Amazon is the best price besides the gallon size. I've used over a can of that since I discovered it years ago

I hope that extraction tool gets them out, those are very strong bolts and getting to the top one will be hard. Use a baby sledge to tap it on pretty good. That requires less arm force than a smaller hammer. I use a real sledge for BJ's, which is much better than a baby sledge for the same reason.

 

[sehaare]

Best of luck to get the bolts out without too much trouble. Kroil was the right thing to use to start with, and I just received another can of that this Tuesday, $20 from Amazon is the best price besides the gallon size. I've used over a can of that since I discovered it years ago

I hope that extraction tool gets them out, those are very strong bolts and getting to the top one will be hard. Use a baby sledge to tap it on pretty good. That requires less arm force than a smaller hammer. I use a real sledge for BJ's, which is much better than a baby sledge for the same reason.

I buy the gallon size and then got a trigger oil can with a nozzle that could be adjusted from stream to spray. I can get the kroil right where I need it. Kroil is what the shipyard (and most of the boilermakers) and since they were working for the government (or billing the cost to the plant) they hadn't picked Kroil for the cost only the results.

I've got a baby sledge that I love, so I'll be using that as well

 

[sehaare]

Got the driver's side brakes done with no issue. When I went to do the passenger side brakes the caliper bracket bolts were pretty rusted up. So I wire brushed them by hand and soaked everything in Kroil for a day. Finally went at it tonight and they both rounded off. I've ordered this from amazon and it will be here in two days.

[

Put that new extractor on and tap it down with a hammer and give her hell
Spray some more oil on it so it can soak

And Just for future info a 15MM extractor is almost impossible to find. I couldn't find it in a set (that wasn't well over $100 - not doing that for one time use). So I had to get this one on amazon. I was hoping to find a impact rated extractor since I have a 18V Millwaukee 1/2" impact with enough torque to twist the bolts in two if I could get a socket to grip.

 

[Mbrooks420]

And Just for future info a 15MM extractor is almost impossible to find. I couldn't find it in a set (that wasn't well over $100 - not doing that for one time use). So I had to get this one on amazon. I was hoping to find a impact rated extractor since I have a 18V Millwaukee 1/2" impact with enough torque to twist the bolts in two if I could get a socket to grip.

Probably won’t find an impact rated one, they’d be too brittle. I very much doubt the extractor will work, since you were using a 6 point socket.

 

[swshawaii]

Use a baby sledge to tap it on pretty good. That requires less arm force than a smaller hammer. I use a real sledge for BJ's, which is much better than a baby sledge for the same reason.

Bought this a few years ago and it's my "go to" hammer for almost everything including demo work. A must for old arms because it almost eliminates shock from hard impacts. Best $24 I've spent on a tool and invaluable for suspension work.

Nupla 2 lb. Power Drive Dead Blow Hammer with 13.75 inch Fiberglass Handle, 1 Steel Face, and Super-Grip - Perfect for Mechanics, Contractors, and Trade Professionals: Amazon.com: Industrial & Scientific

Amazon product ASIN B000JS325S

 

[CDW6212R]

Bought this a few years ago and it's my "go to" hammer for almost everything including demo work. A must for old arms because it almost eliminates shock from hard impacts. Best $24 I've spent on a tool and invaluable for suspension work. Nupla SF-2 @ Amazon. (Can't link for some reason)
Amazon product ASIN B000JS325S

Very good, I also have a dead blow that I use on rare occasions. Mine has a plastic face though, I don't use it often or on rough surfaces.

 

[Pete Deering]

While I spent 17 years working in boilers with welding going on all around me, but I've never struck an arc in my life. One thing that just never got punched on my man card. I'm semi-retired now so maybe I'll go take a welding class sometime just for the hell of it. Although not being able to weld has probably kept me from doing a lot of stupid stuff.

I've got this coming late tomorrow and I'll give it a try first.

Amazon product ASIN B002Z32PGM

And if that doesn't work, I've been going through my head what tools I have to try and cut off those bolt heads. I've got a harbor freight air compressor and die grinder, I've got a 12V Milwaukee 3"cut off saw, a 12 V Milwaukee hackzall (great one-handed tool), a 18V Milwaukee super sawzall ( a fricken beast), a 12V Milwaukee oscillating tool (never tried cutting a bolt this big with it, but there is always a first time), and a couple of Dremels.

If I can get in there with the big tools to cut the head close to the steering knuckle then I could probably finish up with one of the Dremels to prevent hitting the steering knuckle. Since I have to wait another day for the socket to arrive, I can use today to see which tools will fit in there. And this might be a good excuse to buy myself a Milwaukee die grinder to play with while I'm at it.

II uses something similar. They work. I also used a small belt sander , file or grinder too but a shoulder back on them. I sometimes weld a nut on the heads, if I can get at them. I purchase a bag of replacement bolts for the HUD, brake caliper, dust shield and mount. They don't last long in the rust belt. As someone stated you can cut it off. I done on the HUD ears. And welded nuts on the small hardware for the dust ShieldsView attachment 340510

 

[Pete Deering]

II uses something similar. They work. I also used a small belt sander , file or grinder too but a shoulder back on them. I sometimes weld a nut on the heads, if I can get at them. I purchase a bag of replacement bolts for the HUD, brake caliper, dust shield and mount. They don't last long in the rust belt. As someone stated you can cut it off. I done on the HUD ears. And welded nuts on the small hardware for the dust Shields

 

[sehaare]

Probably won’t find an impact rated one, they’d be too brittle. I very much doubt the extractor will work, since you were using a 6 point socket.

I've never used one before, but It is worth a try and I'll post the results here either way. (nothing worse then some one asking for help but then leaving here and never posting how it turned out)

 

[Pete Deering]

I've never used one before, but It is worth a try and I'll post the results here either way. (nothing worse then some one asking for help but then leaving here and never posting how it turned out)

I have 4 different manufacturer brands. Its a must. You need full sets. You tap on On the bolt with a hammer. 2 craftsman sets, 2 eBay sets, and 2 harbor freight, which I uses alot. the difference between the sets, some you uses a socket or wrench on it. The other you uses a drive on it. Harbor freight are low cost. Metric and SAE.

 

[sehaare]

I have 4 different manufacturer brands. Its a must. You need full sets. You tap on On the bolt with a hammer. 2 craftsman sets, 2 eBay sets, and 2 harbor freight, which I uses alot. the difference between the sets, some you uses a socket or wrench on it. The other you uses a drive on it. Harbor freight are low cost. Metric and SAE.

Good to know. It appears that the 15MM is like the unicorn of bolt extractor sizes. I had always meant to get a set.

When I started out I got a lot of Harbor Freight stuff. I still use their ratchet wrenches and some of their sockets. With a bolt extractor I think that I would want to spend more a get a quality set, then get harbor freight and possibly have the extractor not work and then always questioned myself if a better set might have worked.

Amazon is still saying the extractor should show up before 10 tonight. I've give up on the fuel filter quick disconnect leak from my other post, and will now I'm going to switch over and jack up and put the passenger side of the car on jack stands. Since I'm hopefully going to be using a lot of force if the extractor grabs I have figured out how to over kill supporting the car and will have two jack stand plus two jacks on that side of the car. The jack stands will be supporting the load and the jacks extended up to catch the SUV if the jack stands slip (I've made it to 59 without dropping a car on me and I'm not going to start today)

 

[Pete Deering]

Good to know. It appears that the 15MM is like the unicorn of bolt extractor sizes. I had always meant to get a set.

When I started out I got a lot of Harbor Freight stuff. I still use their ratchet wrenches and some of their sockets. With a bolt extractor I think that I would want to spend more a get a quality set, then get harbor freight and possibly have the extractor not work and then always questioned myself if a better set might have worked.

Amazon is still saying the extractor should show up before 10 tonight. I've give up on the fuel filter quick disconnect leak from my other post, and will now I'm going to switch over and jack up and put the passenger side of the car on jack stands. Since I'm hopefully going to be using a lot of force if the extractor grabs I have figured out how to over kill supporting the car and will have two jack stand plus two jacks on that side of the car. The jack stands will be supporting the load and the jacks extended up to catch the SUV if the jack stands slip (I've made it to 59 without dropping a car on me and I'm not going to start today)

I used( 2)6 ton stands under the door area between the torsion bar and the body mount. I have a Set of 4. They go up to 24 inches, the stand is 12 tall. The jack I leave under the control arm lifting point. You will see the lifting ear. For the fuel filter. I brought a fuel line kit years ago. It gives you some of the parts, but can purchase some of the special ends to go the fuel filter. Similar to dormans. I think is was a brand SRRP. Only a few part stores supported the product. brought it from Amazon.

 

[sehaare]

I used( 2)6 ton stands under the door area between the torsion bar and the body mount. I have a Set of 4. They go up to 24 inches, the stand is 12 tall. The jack I leave under the control arm lifting point. You will see the lifting ear. For the fuel filter. I brought a fuel line kit years ago. It gives you some of the parts, but can purchase some of the special ends to go the fuel filter. Similar to dormans. I think is was a brand SRRP. Only a few part stores supported the product. brought it from Amazon.

Both bolts broke loose in under 10 min. using the turbo socket. I had to use a 1/2" to 3/8" adapter to use my longer 1/2" drive longer breaker bar on the first bolt. Once you have one nut out you can tap on the caliper bracket in the opposite direction to help loosen the second bolt. I only needed my 3/8" breaker bar on that one.

Instead of using a hand sledge I used a big brass hammer that I have to drive the socket on. Less chance of damaging the socket.

This socket was worth it's weight in gold, it made this job that easy and should work for anyone else who gets stuck like I did.

Again thanks for all the suggestion and help.

Steve