Trouble with TM Headers

[SilverBullet]

I finally got my intake leak fixed, but my Ex was still hesitating and bogging down, etc. I noticed that my rear banks (4 & 8) were running rich, so I'm pulling my spark plugs out and cleaning them hoping that'll help.

I ran into a problem though. The header is in the way of the #3 spark plug, and I can't get a socket on it to remove it. Plus, it's such a tight fit that the header was rubbing on the plug boot and melted the fiberglass insulator and the spark plug boot. I'm guessing that's what my problem has been.

So how do I remove the #3 spark plug???

 

[CHEESYPOOFS]

w8 so along with his ? is this a common problem with the headers because im planing on getting them eventually

 

[SilverBullet]

I suppose I could take my spark plug socket and grind it down, because the header just ever so slightly gets in the way. But, I shouldn't have to do that.

 

[techieman33]

I've never had any problem getting it out with a regular 5/8 deep well, I think they're just a little bit shorter than the spark plug socket. Make sure to get some heat socks for those wires though

 

[Turdle]

^^
Regular deep well socket will make all the difference.

Second the heat socks

 

[410Fortune]

getting at the plugs with the TM headers has never been an issue for me
routing of the spark plug wires takes some care to avoide the headers

 

[SilverBullet]

The #3 spark plug boot, combined with the heat sock, touches the header. There is no way to route it so it doesn't touch... at least on my set of headers.

After putting it back together, I instantly got a check engine light.. it scanned as a misfire on cylinder #3, which makes sense because the boot melted right through to the "plug" on the inside, even with the heat sock on.

 

[reserved50]

i had to double up the thermal heat socks whatever they're called. Also make sure they arent pressing against the exhaust, lightly touching it at most.

 

[410Fortune]

none of my heat socks or boots hit the headers, some come close but none hit.

Routing them to clear IS possible
I have heat socks on the rear 3 cyl on both sides, no metal guards, just the socks.
I routed the wires 100% from scratch, not similar to the stock routing at all

here's some pics to help:
96 explorer:

88 BII (TMH conversion headers, very similar):

I wish I had some more pics, but that should help

 

[WhiteLimited]

I know this is off topic and I'm sorry but TMH look so hot. I love looking down my engin and seeing them it makes me smile.Cheers!

 

[SilverBullet]

That's where mine is rubbing... With my heat sock on the plug wire, I can barely squeeze a piece of metal in there that's 1/16" thick..

 

[WhiteLimited]

Ok so I checked mine, same problem! The wire looked fine but then pulled on it and it ripped apart with out any force. Cheers

 

[SilverBullet]

anyone else have this problem? I think I figured out a workaround for right now. I got a bracket made to bolt steel conduit down, and smashed it flat and then made it look like <, and then I wedged it in between the plug boot and the header. So far I think it's working.

 

[EMG7895]

what sets off wires are you all using? different boots might be the problem

 

[SilverBullet]

I have Magnecor 8.5mm

 

[parad1mg]

is this a common problem along with developing exhaust leaks thru the gasket? i'm seriously considering getting a set so i can enjoy its benefits when i drive my truck cross country by April and if its just coing to cause leaks and burnt wires along the way the I guess its not at all practical?

by the way, is there any possiblity of doing another group buy anytime soon?

 

[techieman33]

If they're installed with some care you shouldn't have to many problems. I haven't had to touch mine at all, no exhaust leaks and no burnt plug wires. Even with the problems they're still worth every penny.

 

[rcpasq]

Gents,

The wires can almost be routed in the stock position. I believe 410 is a good example of rerouting them and preventing some of the pit falls.

As far as the #3 plug goes, there's 2 ways to approach it; 1 - Use a tie-dye and pull it away from the tube by attaching it to the top of the shock. Generally, the stock length on the #3 wire is a little short... get a longer wire.; and the 2nd approach - Reroute the #3 spark plug wire to come around the back with #4. From the #3 spark plug back, there are no header tubes in the way, so come in from the back. Once again, get a longer wire!

If the Headers are installed correctly according to the written instructions and video, using Loctite and torqing the bolts when they're hot, they will give years of good performance. Remember, when all else fails, Read The Instructions... take your time and be patient. All the Best.

Bob Pasquale
Tech Performance & Engineering
Torque Monster Headers

 

[Cobraguy]

I think Bob is dead on about everything but the Loctite. I strongly disagree...especially if you bolt them to aluminum heads. But even with cast iron heads, it's something that is not necessary and can cause huge problems down the road removing bolts. Use the opposite instead. Use antiseize on your bolts, retorque three or four times through heat cycles, and you will find they will stay tight just fine. If you really need to use something to hold the bolts, they make bolts that positively lock in place by mechanical means. I have used antiseize on all my header bolts (that is MANY sets of headers) and I've never had a problem. I just retorque them until they won't tighten anymore and they are good to go...and the bolts come out when you need them to.

 

[SilverBullet]

Bob,

I'm not having trouble with the plug wires themselves touching the headers, I have routed them in such a way that they are fine. The problem I am having is that when the plug wire on the #3 spark plug is installed, the spark plug boot itself rests on the manifold tube. There is hardly any clearance. I can barely even force the tip of a flat-headed screwdriver between the two. So far, the only solution I can come up with is (with heat sock installed) to shove a 1/16" piece of scrap galvanized steel between the two in hopes that it provides enough of a cushion so that I don't keep melting the boots on my spark plug wires. It cost me $28 to get a new magnecor replacement wire. I can't keep having to buy those.