SOHC Engine Removal/Rebuild/Install - Done!

[koda2000]

So when we gonna see some pictures

Well there's not much to see right now. Just a partially disassembled dirty engine, a bed full of removed parts and a truck sitting on jack stands with no front wheels. If you want to see pictures of that of that I can oblige.

Below is the link to my 2015 thread regarding this ST. There are quite a few pictures of it in the thread. It's nothing special, just a neglected late production 2001 Sport Trac with 184,000 miles on it.
New Toy

 

[koda2000]

So when we gonna see some pictures

Well there's not much to see right now. Just a partially disassembled dirty engine, a bed full of removed parts and a truck sitting on jack stands with no front wheels. If you want to see pictures of that of that I can oblige.

Below is the link to my 2015 thread regarding this ST. There are quite a few pictures of it in the thread. It's nothing special, just a neglected late production 2001 Sport Trac with 184,000 miles on it.
New Toy

 

[david4451]

Hi Phil, you're finding what I did, once you get into this massive job many more systems have to be dealt with.
AC line to and from compressor, at drier disconnect spring lock fitting(same as fuel line but bigger) at compressor one bolt at condenser one nut. Plus bracket on timing cover. I did not renew this big big line, just all 'O' rings. If I remember correctly I think in an old post you said your compressor was 'sweating', if so your compressor is worn out.

I renewed high pressure line on power steering, it was leaking at the rack. I needed a crows foot to remove 16mm or 18mm. New line came with seals.

When cracking cylinder head bolts use as short an extension as possible to keep in line with head bolt, no power tools till it's cracked. These bolts are damn tight and it feels like something is going to break then suddenly it moves!

 

[koda2000]

Thanks David. The compressor isn't sweating, it's the high pressure hose to the condenser that's a bit oily. I would like to replace it at some point, but perhaps at a later date. I'll see how the budget is holding up once the engine is sorted. The A/C and heat work great on this truck, at least for now.

I do plan to replace the P/S pressure hose as it's a little wet right where the hose connects to the metal line by the pump. That part is cheap enough and it looks fairly easy to change.

You're certainly correct about having to mess with a ton of systems to get the engine ready to remove. I miss working on 50's and 60's vehicles as they were so simple by comparison. I can remove an engine is a couple of hours on those. I hope I can finish off my wrenching years on nothing more complicated than a Gen II Explorer.

 

[david4451]

The only good thing is all other jobs will seem easy after this marathon!!!

 

[koda2000]

The only good thing is all other jobs will seem easy after this marathon!!!

And to think, you had to do it twice! That would be more ambition then I capable of at my age.

 

[koda2000]

Today's progress (or lack there of):
It was unusually hot today in GA, 86F, which is measured in the shade so add 15 degrees as I was working in the sun. First I had to cut my grass again and afterwards I was feeling fairly wiped out, so I figured I'd wait until the sun was on the way down before working on the ST. I didn't plan to do anything to involved, just loosen up some nuts/bolts and disconnect some things. I started with the four nuts holding the motor mount plates to the motor mounts. Looked easy enough, but holy crap those nuts were tight. I had to use my 1/2" breaker bar with a piece of pipe, two 12" extensions and a universal to reach the nuts from the top, even then they were very hard to break loose. I suspect they have Ford's red loctite on them because even when they started to move it was very hard to turn them. Do you know the sound a socket makes when it breaks? That was the sound all four nuts made and when they broke loose and the shock was enough to reverse the direction on my 1/2 ratchet (hence the switch to the breaker bar). Once I had the nuts almost off I decided to also loosen the motor mount plates from the block. Those six 13 mm bolts were also very hard to get to move and then hard to unscrew. I worked up a pretty good sweat with those 10 nuts/bolts, but they're ready to come out/off now. I'm planning to support the engine with a floor jack and remove the plate bolts so that I can lower the engine down to get at the O2 sensor plugs and trans bolts. Then I'll lift the engine back on it's mounts so that I can break the head bolts loose. My T55 x 1/2" Torx socket arrived in the yesterday's mail, so I'll be loosening the head bolts pretty soon, then I'll be almost be ready to pull the engine out once I have the torque converter bolts off.

@david4451 I'm now thinking I can get the fuel line out of my way without disconnecting the click-connect. I already have the line on the engine side unbolted from its brackets and if I disconnect the line from the fuel rails I think I can just move it to the side. I plan to try the click-connect first, but it looks a bit daunting. I'm curious to see if it will let go.

Miscellaneous other:
Heater control valve bracket and hose to W/P removed. Various electrical wiring unbolted. Oil pressure sensor wire removed, Trans line bracket removed from engine block. Other brackets taken loose. I will need to purchase the tubing crowfoot to remove the old P/S high pressure line, but I don't plan on buying the set, just the one size needed. I figure I've lived and wrenched this long without owning a set of crowfoot wrenches.

 

[donalds]

Spray some silicone spray in the quick disconnect fuel line fittings it helps

 

[koda2000]

Another sizzling hot day today and the rest of this week looks even hotter (mid 90's). I'm beginning to wish I'd done this job inside the garage, but I figured it was going to take a while (which it has) and I didn't feel like leaving my EB outside for months. I got out this morning and removed the water pump from the SOHC. This evening, when the sun goes down, I intend to remove the 2 temp sensors and the t-stat housing, then the fuel lines at the rails. Tomorrow and Tues I have mid-day appts and then Wed is my grocery shopping day, so I'll see what I can do in the evenings. I plan to remove the spark plugs, spin the engine by the harmonic balance bolt and remove the torque converter nuts through the starter hole using my impact.

Evening Update (not really much cooler, but a little breeze helped):
Pulled coolant temp sensors out of top of t-stat housing
Removed t-stat and t-stat housing
Removed all 6 spark plugs and reinstalled finger tight to keep the mud wasps out
Remove the fuel line from fuel rails (after a month+ there was still some pressure in the line)
Was able to easily move fuel line out of the way so messing with click-connect not necessary
Visualized 4 of the remaining trans bolts. Can't see the top 2 yet.
Took the heater hose line bracket loose from the engine
Removed the PCV valve & hoses


What's Left:
Loosen all the head bolts (take 2 ibuprofen first)
Support/lift engine on a floor jack and remove engine mount plates
Remove engine mount plates so I can lower engine down a little
Remove the remaining transmission bolts & disconnect O2 sensor wiring
Reinstall the engine mount plates loosely
Remove the hood
Support the engine on chains on my engine hoist's equalizer bar
Remove the motor mount plates again
Support the transmission on a jack stand
Remove the engine and put it inside for disassembly & autopsy

Pics to follow.

@david4451 - I guess this is the A/C hose assembly I would need. It's not very expensive, but I'd have to add the cost of refrigerant, compressor oil, the accumulator, O-rings and a vacuum pump.

 

[koda2000]

Today, while examining last evening's work and sticking bolts in disconnected hoses to keep the wasps out, I noticed that there's a ground wire running from the wiper motor mount to the rear of the right head that needs to be disconnected. No problem, just an 11 mm nut, except the wire eye turns with the nut. I tried holding the wire eye in a variety of ways but I can't stop it from turning with the nut. Then I tried to remove the 13 mm bolt on the head. It's in a bad position, hard to reach and too close to the firewall to use a regular ratchet, too tight to break loose with a 13 mm wrench with one hand, I can't get enough leverage on my flex head ratchet to break it free and I can't get the angle needed using my 3/8" breaker bar. Finally I manage to get a 12" pipe on my flex hex ratchet handle and I'm able to loosen the bolt from the driver's side. What a PITA! That's 20 mins of my life I'll never get back plus I then needed to put away all the tools I'd brought outside to get the job done.

Why is it always the simple things that take the most time and tools?

 

[donalds]

Because it was engineered by ford.

 

[koda2000]

Because it was engineered by ford.

That honor is not something that belongs uniquely to Ford.

 

[david4451]

Another sizzling hot day today and the rest of this week looks even hotter (mid 90's). I'm beginning to wish I'd done this job inside the garage, but I figured it was going to take a while (which it has) and I didn't feel like leaving my EB outside for months. I got out this morning and removed the water pump from the SOHC. This evening, when the sun goes down, I intend to remove the 2 temp sensors and the t-stat housing, then the fuel lines at the rails. Tomorrow and Tues I have mid-day appts and then Wed is my grocery shopping day, so I'll see what I can do in the evenings. I plan to remove the spark plugs, spin the engine by the harmonic balance bolt and remove the torque converter nuts through the starter hole using my impact.

Evening Update (not really much cooler, but a little breeze helped):
Pulled coolant temp sensors out of top of t-stat housing
Removed t-stat and t-stat housing
Removed all 6 spark plugs and reinstalled finger tight to keep the mud wasps out
Remove the fuel line from fuel rails (after a month+ there was still some pressure in the line)
Was able to easily move fuel line out of the way so messing with click-connect not necessary
Visualized 4 of the remaining trans bolts. Can't see the top 2 yet.
Took the heater hose line bracket loose from the engine
Removed the PCV valve & hoses


What's Left:
Loosen all the head bolts (take 2 ibuprofen first)
Support/lift engine on a floor jack and remove engine mount plates
Remove engine mount plates so I can lower engine down a little
Remove the remaining transmission bolts & disconnect O2 sensor wiring
Reinstall the engine mount plates loosely
Remove the hood
Support the engine on chains on my engine hoist's equalizer bar
Remove the motor mount plates again
Support the transmission on a jack stand
Remove the engine and put it inside for disassembly & autopsy

Pics to follow.

@david4451 - I guess this is the A/C hose assembly I would need. It's not very expensive, but I'd have to add the cost of refrigerant, compressor oil, the accumulator, O-rings and a vacuum pump.

My ac line was ok, if your ac was working I see no need to replace. Except for all 'O' rings.
As an aside, if you still have hood in place it really restricts access to fire wall bolts etc.

 

[koda2000]

My ac line was ok, if your ac was working I see no need to replace. Except for all 'O' rings.
As an aside, if you still have hood in place it really restricts access to fire wall bolts etc.

Regarding my A/C, what I'd said was that the rubber hose on the high pressure side between the compressor and condenser is wet, indicating oil and refrigerant loss. The system has worked well over the past 4 years and I've never had to add refrigerant to it, but it's going to need addressing soon. I should probably also wait until I can have the system properly evacuated at a shop. I'll worry about it later, bigger fish to fry right now. The other day I noticed where/how the line can be removed from the condenser.

As far as the hood, to keep rain water out of everything I didn't want to remove the hood before it was necessary. It hasn't really been in my way so far and provides me some shade in the evening as the truck is facing east.

 

[donalds]

I am enjoying this thread koda upkeep. Up the good work

 

[koda2000]

I am enjoying this thread koda upkeep. Up the good work

Yeah, when I started my "New Toy" thread on this vehicle, back in the spring of 2015, I saw a lot of people seemed to enjoy reading about my trials and tribulations so I figured I'd keep it up. I guess I should post a link to this thread at the end of "New Toy" as a continuation of the story.

 

[koda2000]

@david4451 - After looking at the 4 metal lines connected to the P/S rack, which are different size tubing fittings (presumably so you can't mix them up). I decided to order the full tubing crowfoot set you pictured (Sunex 9710M). Just the single one for the pressure hose was going to cost me around $10, so getting the full set for $25 makes more sense and it will make it easier to get the cooler out of the way.

 

[CDW6212R]

The PS lines have Teflon seals on the ends, and usually come with them when new. Avoid taking the lines apart unless you have new lines or can get the Teflon seals, which Ford never sold and they only came with the lines. I found a local source for those odd lines about 15 years ago, but used the two spares I got at the time.

That's why many people find Teflon tape on many of the ends, it's so hard to get the right seals. The correct seal even had to be stretched to fit over the threads, I used a deep well 10mm socket which has a growing diameter in the middle of it.

I've heard of people using some kind of o-ring on those, I just don't know if they work or for how long. The Teflon seals get crushed fairly thin when installed, end up thin and trashed when taken apart.

 

[donalds]

Hmmm every one I have replaced had a standard looking o ring May just be a aftermarket thing
I did a quick search and they do sell them at your local auto parts store and online
power steering pressure line o ring - Google Search

I believe this is the ford part
388898-S

 

[koda2000]

The PS lines have Teflon seals on the ends, and usually come with them when new. Avoid taking the lines apart unless you have new lines or can get the Teflon seals, which Ford never sold and they only came with the lines. I found a local source for those odd lines about 15 years ago, but used the two spares I got at the time.

That's why many people find Teflon tape on many of the ends, it's so hard to get the right seals. The correct seal even had to be stretched to fit over the threads, I used a deep well 10mm socket which has a growing diameter in the middle of it.

I've heard of people using some kind of o-ring on those, I just don't know if they work or for how long. The Teflon seals get crushed fairly thin when installed, end up thin and trashed when taken apart.

Thanks for the info. I think I can avoid having to remove the other P/S line(s) from the rack. I just thought it might be easier than removing the rubber lines from the cooler, as all 4 of the hose clamps are in a position which looks like they may be very hard to squeeze. I'll see if I can at them from the back side with my super long needle nose pliers. I want to remove the cooler as it looks like I could damage it when pulling the engine. I'll be buying a new P/S pressure hose/line so that should come with new seals.