5R55E Won't Engage In Any Shifter Position

[ShelbyLite]

I have to start by saying I have read many of your transmission posts in the past and they have been very helpful with a third gear issue I had about a half year ago. I adjusted the band and solved that problem. I also must tell you that you are all much more adventurous about working on transmissions than my friend in the other forums that I visit. Bravo for you!
Now for the problem, I went to the drag strip Saturday. I did pretty well for a daily driver at 12.26 in the quarter mile. Then I drove it home with no issues (except it seemed to shift a bit harsher than earlier that day). I live an hour from the track.
Sunday, I went to the garage to get it out and it acts like it is in neutral. The only sign that the shifter has moved is it won't move when it is in park and you can push it when it is in gear, plus a reflection of the reverse lights against the wall behind the car. I ran it through all shifter positions one click at a time and it did not make any sound that indicated any attempt to engage, no change in idle speed, and no problem sounds either. I added a half quart of fluid to be sure that it wasn't low. I have a tube that I can access for this purpose. It overflows if I put in too much. It was not low.
I know this is not an Explorer, but it has the same type of transmission and I would be very grateful for any assistance you could provide. Thanks.

 

[transman304]

Sounds to me like your converter failed or pressure regulator valve issue. If you unplug the main transmission electrical plug and try it you should have 3rd gear and reverse. If not it’s going to be internal.

 

[ShelbyLite]

I will try that. It still seems odd that it got me home and then failed to move the next day. However, if the fluid level came down from it overnight then that might be it. Since it might not want to self prime. If I need a new TC is there a stronger one that you would recommend?

 

[ShelbyLite]

Sounds to me like your converter failed or pressure regulator valve issue. If you unplug the main transmission electrical plug and try it you should have 3rd gear and reverse. If not it’s going to be internal.

I have been out of town so I have not made any progress yet. In the meantime, I was trying to find out what you mean by the main transmission plug. Also how could unplugging this cause it to work in 3rd and reverse? PS: I ordered a Trans. pressure gauge before I left town.

 

[transman304]

The main electrical bulk head connector on the side of transmission. By design the transmission will move in 3rd and reverse with no electrical input. So if removing the electrical supply and the vehicle will move than you have a electrical issue causing your no movement and not a mechanical failure.

 

[ShelbyLite]

I guess it is supposed to be a whopping 24 degrees in the morning so I might not feel inspired real soon. I will let you know what I find out. Thanks again.

 

[ShelbyLite]

I unplugged the terminal and the wheels don’t go even on the lift with no resistance. So I guess it is on to the next step, checking fluid pressure at the fitting on the back of the transmission.

 

[ShelbyLite]

The main electrical bulk head connector on the side of transmission. By design the transmission will move in 3rd and reverse with no electrical input. So if removing the electrical supply and the vehicle will move than you have a electrical issue causing your no movement and not a mechanical failure.
View attachment 164568

 

[ShelbyLite]

So, I find no movement with the plug pulled and no psi on the left port. The fluid is a bit dark and smells a little like clutch. Neither is severe. I plan to drop the pan next unless I hear from someone that I should go directly to “remove the transmission” next.

 

[transman304]

Go ahead and drop the pan so the fluid is drained. Makes less mess when you take out transmission. Not going to be able to repair in the vehicle.

 

[ShelbyLite]

Thanks for the advice.

 

[ShelbyLite]

Finally warm enough for long enough for me to be motivated to work on it. Found intermediate band was done for, the same drum is scared, the pressure check valve in the pump was stuck, most of the plungers in the valve body and solenoids were hesitant about traveling freely. On the plus side the drum seems to be the only metal part that is in need of replacement.

 

[ShelbyLite]

Go ahead and drop the pan so the fluid is drained. Makes less mess when you take out transmission. Not going to be able to repair in the vehicle.

Finally warm enough for long enough for me to be motivated to work on it. Found intermediate band was done for, the same drum is scared, the pressure check valve in the pump was stuck, most of the plungers in the valve body and solenoids were hesitant about traveling freely. On the plus side the drum seems to be the only metal part that is in need of replacement. Very little on the magnet.
1). Any recommendations on what rebuild kit is best.
2). Should I buy Ford or other band or get them with the rebuild kit?
3). Should I just clean the pressure valve or replace it with which brand?
4). Any suggestions on which shift kit is best and why?
Remember that the car only has 35,000 miles on it.
I have pictures of everything if that would help.

 

[JK080]

I have found that most rebuild kits have decent seals and gaskets and small parts, so I am not that picky, look for names like Transtec, Toledo, Precision.

Use Raybestos or Borg Warner frictions and Borg Warner bands.

New OE reverse band and servos, also this case needs to be sleeved, the servos wear the bores and they end up with shift issues, it's a must even with the low mileage. You will need a tool to sleeve the case yourself. Maybe you can find a shop to do it for you.

Don't clean the valve for the pump, replace it and use the one from Superior if you can or Sonnax.

I dont use shift kits with this transmission but others do, TransGo has one that is popular and it has a Pump valve and pump alignment tool too so this would be one I would recommend even if it's just for that.

Replace the input sprag too as it's a known failure spot.

I like to replace the solenoid assembly especially if there is metal debris, with the pump valve stuck and valves in the valve body stuck it sounds like there is a excess of metal. Give yours a shot but keep in mind they can have problems too.

Flush the cooler well and replace the torque converter too.

 

[ShelbyLite]

I have found that most rebuild kits have decent seals and gaskets and small parts, so I am not that picky, look for names like Transtec, Toledo, Precision.

Use Raybestos or Borg Warner frictions and Borg Warner bands.

New OE reverse band and servos, also this case needs to be sleeved, the servos wear the bores and they end up with shift issues, it's a must even with the low mileage. You will need a tool to sleeve the case yourself. Maybe you can find a shop to do it for you.

Don't clean the valve for the pump, replace it and use the one from Superior if you can or Sonnax.

I dont use shift kits with this transmission but others do, TransGo has one that is popular and it has a Pump valve and pump alignment tool too so this would be one I would recommend even if it's just for that.

Replace the input sprag too as it's a known failure spot.

I like to replace the solenoid assembly especially if there is metal debris, with the pump valve stuck and valves in the valve body stuck it sounds like there is a excess of metal. Give yours a shot but keep in mind they can have problems too.

Flush the cooler well and replace the torque converter too.

Thank you for the response and advice.

 

[ShelbyLite]

Go ahead and drop the pan so the fluid is drained. Makes less mess when you take out transmission. Not going to be able to repair in the vehicle.

Do you still have the same e-mail that you had in April?

 

[ShelbyLite]

Rebuilt it and have driven it a couple of months now. Just a few hundred miles, I was starting to feel confident about it. I started on a drive to a car show about 30 minutes drive from my house. Fourth or fifth time to go this distance since rebuilding it.
Then a problem showed up. I was driving on the highway at 65 mph. Then the traffic came to a near standstill. The transmission acted like it was stuck in gear with the clutch out (in manual transmission terms). Made some hollow growling noise and stalled the engine. (It had done this to a much lesser degree last week, but was fine the next day). This time I restarted it and it died as soon as I put it in gear. Restarted it and got going. I drove it home on the turnpike, since I wanted to avoid all the stoplights that I could. It seemed to be fine at speed and did better when shifting manually. It also seemed better as I approached stopping speeds if it was in first. (The neutral shift switch seems very slightly misaligned).

Additional information:
I tested it again this morning and it seemed better at first but I only went around the block. It still seems to be pulling as though the clutches aren’t fully releasing. By the way it seems to work great if you are driving it hard. Fourth gear shift hits a bit hard if you’re driving leisurely. I did notice a slight odor yesterday at one of the stoplights. There isn’t any leaking. I went ahead and sampled the fluid. It smells a tiny bit like clutch and is slightly darker than new. But no metal or other debris.

I’m thinking that the torque converter, the valve body, or the solenoids are the main suspects. Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

[mattlen28]

Sounds to me like your converter failed or pressure regulator valve issue. If you unplug the main transmission electrical plug and try it you should have 3rd gear and reverse. If not it’s going to be internal.

hey hi.have an 03 xlt 4.0 4wd explorer with 5r55s trans. suddenly wouldn't engage intro any gear or reverse. (after working fine other than a bit of delayed engage intro reverse)
after seeing post that trans should go into 3rd and reverse without solenoid electrical connected to see if it's an internal or "electrical"(?) issue,
took out solenoid fuse, and yup, it goes into reverse and d. enough to move anyway.
so trying to figure what to do next?
I'm in Michigan, too, so..
any assistance would be very appreciated.
Have a Good 1 (+)
matt

 

[mattlen28]

The main electrical bulk head connector on the side of transmission. By design the transmission will move in 3rd and reverse with no electrical input. So if removing the electrical supply and the vehicle will move than you have a electrical issue causing your no movement and not a mechanical failure.
View attachment 164568

hey. hi
have an 03 xlt 4.0 4wd explorer with 5r55s trans. suddenly wouldn't engage intro any gear or reverse. (after working fine other than a bit of delayed engage intro reverse)
after seeing a post that trans should go into 3rd and reverse without solenoid electrical connected to see if it's an internal or "electrical"(?) issue,
took out solenoid fuse, and yup, it goes into reverse and d. enough to move anyway.
so trying to figure what to do next?
I'm in Michigan, too, so..
any assistance would be very appreciated.
Have a Good 1 (+)
matt