HELP! trac wont start! is it the starter, alternator, or anti-theft | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

HELP! trac wont start! is it the starter, alternator, or anti-theft

LONO100

Explorer Addict
Joined
March 23, 2011
Messages
2,911
Reaction score
26
City, State
Bay Area CA
Year, Model & Trim Level
03 sport trac XLT
hi fellas, so i was on my way back to my car which was parked at the train station, and it wouldnt start. i think it might be either the alternator, starter, or the anti-theft system. here are the symptoms:

battery reads 10.47 V

full power to everything in the car, but after i disconnected the battery for a few minutes, and then i reconnected it. i still had power to everything, but now the radio wont power up. also, the "theft" light has been blinking brightly every two seconds or so when the power is off. when i turn the key just before ignition, the theft light eventually turns off, and many of the other lights including the check engine light stays lit.

it tries to crank, but i would exactly call the sound a crank.

the last two times i started the truck, i noticed it struggled just a little bit to start. like it stuttered for a second before it fired up, but once it did, it ran fine.

if there is any other info i can give that might help deduce this problem a bit more, please let me know. my trac is still in the parking lot, i think im going to call for a tow truck being that its just a few miles from my house. thanks in advance, and may the explorer gurus shine wisdom upon me!
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





throwing stuff out there, fuel pump maybe? if it was the alternator, i think the truck would die and wouldn't be able to run. could be the starter?
 






the motor wont start at all. i do have power to everything inside, including headlights. i think it could be the fuel pump. im going to go back there later on tonight after i do a little reading. ive already read that my key could be damaged which is causing it to not start. im going to try my other key, and im going to try to reset the system. if its not that, im pretty screwed. i dont know if i just need to get my pats reprogrammed, or if i need to replace a part. im hoping its a part so i can just do it myself, but i may end up having to take it to the dealership to see if they can reprogram the pats system.

any other help would be really appreciated!
 






Dang, this stinks. :(

10v is low for the battery. Charging problem or a drain issue? Test battery.
Check any aftermarket add on's for a short or broken wires.
Check all grounds, including battery cable to frame/engine.
Check positive battery cable to starter for wear, issues.
Could be the voltage regulator is bad. It wont engage the starter if bad. There is a way to "Jump" it, but I can't say how, best to search that one out. ;)

I would try a jump start, or charge the battery loose/disconnected, then install/hook up, and try to start it again. If it does start, disconnect the battery while running to see if it stays running. Runs=good ALT, Dies=Bad ALT.

I doubt it is the key or the fuel pump with that low a voltage reading. Should read in the mid 14's fully charged.
 












sounds like you may have just left something on. dome light? that battery voltage sounds way to low to even crank the starter motor. You really can't do any diagnosing until you fully charge that battery. Try and get a jump from someone. keep us posted (your battery may still be fine. The volts will drop like that from cranking multiple times) Strong battery will read 12.4-12.6 volts.
 






hey fellas, thanks for all the responses, when my gf came to pick me up, i tried to jump it, but it would start. before i tried the jump it was reading at 10.4V.

im off to try to get it to run. im going to try some of these "resetting the pats" methods ive read online, if i cant get it going, im going to get it towed back to my house where i can take a look at it in the light of day. if you think of anything else, please let me know!!! my first breakdown in my trusty sport trac!
 






How To Perform a Parasitic Draw Test ..has to be done on a fully charged batteryhttp://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KF1gijj03_0 This is a great test especially if you have an electrical mods/add-on's. Which I'm pretty sure you do. ...Was it not started for a few days?
 






first things first. Tomorrow take the battery to get tested. Then go from there. A parts store will do this free. They will "quick charge it". They can test the CCA (cold cranking amps) to be sure the battery is good.(just because a batt. reads good voltage does not mean its good) There are a few tests you can do with your voltmeter. i will link a few utube vids for you to look at tonight.
 












first things first. Tomorrow take the battery to get tested. Then go from there. A parts store will do this free. They will "quick charge it". They can test the CCA (cold cranking amps) to be sure the battery is good.(just because a batt. reads good voltage does not mean its good) There are a few tests you can do with your voltmeter. i will link a few utube vids for you to look at tonight.
Ditto Mark. ST's have been known for strange and erratic behavior with faulty batteries. GL
 






Exactly right Steve! That's why I skimmed right past all the radio/theft/etc stuff. Well, at least I'm hoping it has nothing to do with any of that.
Lono- keep it simple. Don't get frustrated. It could be worse. Were here for ya.
 






Thanks mark and all the rest of you guys, you have all been great. So i just came back to my truck and when i tried my spare key to see if it was a pats issue with my other key, my interior lights and clusters were really dim and weak. Headlights wouldnt come on either. I tested the battery again and it read 10.00v. I had my scanner with me so i stuck it in to see what would happen and it barely lit up. So now im pretty sure its not the pats, the fuel pump, or the starter. I think its between the battery and the alternator. Thats a good thing because i can replace either of those myself.

So now im waiting for a tow truck to get it back to my house. Thankfully im only a mile from my house so my insurance said they will tow it at no cost. So what are your educated guesses now? I think ill be taking the battery to get tested. Hopefully thats it. If its still good, should i replace the alternator?

Thanks again guys, you have all been great. Im so glad to be on this forum!
 






If it's your battery check out this DieHard P-2. $176 seems steep but that's what you would pay for any high end battery.
930 CCA, 135 minute reserve, four year exchange/100 month pro rated warranty, and drops in without adapters. 60 lbs.:thumbsup:

www.sears.com/diehard-platinum...group...65.../p-02850065000P
 






thanks man, ill see if i can find it here in town.

so i just got the trac home safe and sound. the tow truck guy got to us really quick, he was super cool too so i shot him a ten spot for a six pack. so tomorrow ill take the battery to an autozone and get it tested. if its the battery ill get it replaced, but what if the battery is good? whats my next move? alternator? ill check the cables and terminals in the daylight when i get a shot. thanks again guys, the last time i dealt with a charging issue i was in high school. you guys are the best.
 






Damn, didn't stay up last night like usual (my 16 month wouldn't go to bed without me) from your info in the first post (didn't read thru everything) I'd say its the battery and definetly check for any drains. How long was it sitting at the train station? I know my battery is getting pretty weak and struggling to start my Trac (production date on it is Jan. '09 so it's getting older). How old is your battery? Hopefully that's all it is.
 






Its the same battery since o bought it back in early 2011, but I can't tell how long its been in there. The truck is an 03, so I'm guessing its the second battery so that makes it around 4 or 5 years old. That means that this battery may need to be replaced, and I'm hoping that's what it is.

We were in the mountains over the weekend, and I had it sitting in the snow for a day while we went on a snow hike. I first noticed that it stuttered a little bit when I turned it over up in the mountains, thank god it started up when we were up in the mountains, and died just a few miles from my house. Yesterday morning I drove it the few miles to the train station and got back 12 hours later that evening and that's when it wouldn't start. I did notice it had a hard time starting that morning too.
 






Battery terminals could be a problem, I had some issues a few months ago due to corroded terminals, cleaned and put on die-electric grease (sometimes sold specifically for battery terminals also), haven't had a problem since.

If the alternater is original it may also be on it's way out, especially if you have lots of extra electrical load i.e. amps, driving lights...

from the sounds, it may be a "parasitic" draw as mentioned, the voltage you're measuring is going lower and lower. Disconnect any external devices you've added - amplifiers, radios,... (lights probably aren't an issue)

Currently I also have a parasitic draw / short also. I'm using HIDs with a relay harness, but the voltage never drops when the headlights are turned off, measure 7 - 10V, and it only occurs in cold/wet conditions (and this causes the HIDs to stay on)...could be headlight switch or the daytime module or a relay if it exists.....


Anyway good luck in finding the problem.
 






thanks for the tips, i have stock lighting. the only aftermarket electronics i have are a cb radio and i replaced the stock radio with an alpine, but im sure both of those are hooked up solid.

ill do a once over on the terminals and cables before i swing my battery over to get tested.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





If it's your battery check out this DieHard P-2. $176 seems steep but that's what you would pay for any high end battery.
930 CCA, 135 minute reserve, four year exchange/100 month pro rated warranty, and drops in without adapters. 60 lbs.:thumbsup:

www.sears.com/diehard-platinum...group...65.../p-02850065000P

so the cheapest i could find the p-2 in my neck of the woods is 220 bucks. and at 60 lbs, and the way my trac already leans left, i may have to find something lighter.

autozone has a deep cycle duralast platinum that weighs in at 45 lbs, and has 770 cca, and a 150 minute reserve. it also has a 3 yr free replacement and an 8 yr overall warranty. its going for 159 bucks, what do you think?
 






Back
Top