How to: Quick and Easy 2nd gen Blend Door Replacement Tutorial

[DaExplorer]

Does anyone know why I don't get any pictures??

Look at #73 of this post.

 

[bradley1]

NICE JOB!!! Thank you for the photos! I was not bad mouthing this site, I've gotten a lot of really good help here. I guess I'm just a very bitter ford owner. 2002 explorer, 2002 mountaineer 1996 explorer. I wouldn't sell either 02' to my worst enemy!! I was a ford truck guy, but not any more, oh no!! never again! Still have the 02'mountaineer and 96'ex so will need all the help I can get I'm sure.

 

[white_shadow]

so this is my problem. this job has been moved to the #2 position. right after suspension work and alignment. its getting warm here in nc, and im gonna want my ac!

 

[white_shadow]

wow, what a B!TCH that last bolt is. turns out my actuator is just fine, turns when i turn the temp knob. but the "axle" for a lack of better terms, the point the actuator goes into feels broken. im going to get an inspection mirror tomorrow and see for sure. ugh...

 

[masospaghetti]

DaExplorer, thanks so much for posting those pictures. I accomplished the repair with Magicland's text alone earlier this year and the pictures would have made it 10x easier.

It's really not a bad job, somewhat annoying to get a nice clean cut with the limited access under the heater box, but it can be done. The multi-tool looks like it left a nice, clean cut. I feel like a dremel would be hard to use; a milling bit would remove a lot of material and make it hard to repair the box after the new door was installed, and a cutting wheel would be difficult to orient with the limited access. IMO, a hot knife worked great (this is what I used) and it leaves a very slim cut that's easy to repair. Here is the one I bought just for this project. As a bonus, its made in the USA: http://www.amazon.com/Dremel-1550-Versa-Multipurpose-Tool/dp/B0000302YM/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337493104&sr=8-1

As an alternative to epoxy, RTV works just fine as well. Use duct tape to hold the bottom of the heater box in place, apply RTV, wait until it dries, remove the tape and finish applying the RTV.

 

[Rich Roebuck]

Ford Blend Door Fix

Ditto on thanks to DaExplorer for helpful pictures (thread 73). I have a 98 Moutaineer and had already revived my blend door function with the finishing nail through the actuator stem method about 2 years ago. That repair failed recently so I knew replacing the blend door was my only option left and I wasn't about to give Ford $2000 to do it. The pictures and text were a great guide and I was glad my actuator is the pop-out type rather than the bolt-in. So I first removed the glove box cover, then unplugged and removed the actuator. However, when squeezing myself in to look at the area to be cut (I'm a pretty slim guy) I had some doubts about being able to do this job. One post suggested removing the passenger seat but I decided to first try doing it with the seat pushed all the way back. To gain a little more room I took out the floor mat on the passenger side. I had ordered a pencil soldering iron that had a knife edge attachment to make the cut. To get in a "comfortable" working position I put an ottoman next to the running board with a couple of old foam pillows on top to support my body in the hip area and slid under on my left side. Referring often to the pictures I outlined the cutting area with a red magic marker. I used one of those small flashlights that band around your head for illumination but found it worked best just laying on the floor facing up.

The hot knife cutting worked somewhat but I found that it would partially re-seal the cut area as I progressed so I ended up starting the cut on each of the 3 sides with the hot knife and then cutting the rest of the way with a sawed-off hacksaw blade (about 6 inches long). Hint: when you get to the area where the bottom shaft of the blend door sits you will have to progress slowly until it allows the cut portion to bend down and away without breaking . I actually used the hot knife in this area going a little further at a time and the heat facilitated the material bending down to get the blend door out. Push up on the blend door and pull down on the cut flap and it will come out. Mine slipped out along with pieces of the shaft - it was broken at the top of the shaft as shown in the pictures.

Here's something important: Some of the smaller shaft pieces and alot of the cutting dust ends up in the socket that holds the bottom of the blend door shaft. I used plumbers grease on both a toothpick and on Q-tips to swab the area clean so the new blend door could turn freely. Once you get to the point where there is no more debris on the swab then put a dab of grease on your finger and force it into the shaft opening. This will give the new blend door a smoother "ride".

The new part is available at Napa and on the internet, including a few eBay sites. I paid $15 at Napa for a kit which includes other parts for doing this job differently (which looked to me to be more cumbersome.) There are different blend doors for various Ford models so make sure your model will accept what you are ordering. If you purchase locally from Napa bring the old part in with you to confirm the match.

For easy installation hold the new blend door at about the 2 oclock position as it will sit inside the plenum. Visually observe which way the actuator shaft will have to be set to line up and mate with the door. Then plug in the actuator (still not installed) and hold it facing front just as it will sit when put back in position. Then turn on ignition key and move temp control knob until the stem is in the same approximate position that the door will be in at that 2 oclock position.

Now unplug and re-install the actuator. Slide the new door up and in moving it around the 2 oclock postion. You will know it is in place when you feel it slide up slightly and you can't move it back and forth anymore. Hold it there so it won't slip out and push up on the bottom to slide it towards the greased socket in the cut flap. Once it drops into position use duct tape to hold it in position. Plug in the actuator. Turn on the ignition and rotate the temp control to confirm correct operation.

I had duct tape cut and ready near the work area - two one-inch strips about 4 inches long and I taped the flap in place on the right side. Take it for a drive and test the heat and air in all positions and satisfy yourself it is working properly.

I had bought epoxy for plastic at home depot (it's a putty that you knead and push in place) and covered the entire cut opening except the taped area and let it set for 24 hours. If you keep your hands and fingers wet it is easier to knead and you can roll it in strips to apply. Once applied you can smooth it out with a wet finger. The next day I covered the dried epoxied areas with black duct tape and it made for a nice neat job even though you can't even see it.

As I said I had serious doubts about trying this but the hardest thing was working in that confined area. Everything else went off without a hitch.

 

[white_shadow]

Ditto on thanks to DaExplorer for helpful pictures (thread 73). I have a 98 Moutaineer and had already revived my blend door function with the finishing nail through the actuator stem method about 2 years ago. That repair failed recently so I knew replacing the blend door was my only option left and I wasn't about to give Ford $2000 to do it. The pictures and text were a great guide and I was glad my actuator is the pop-out type rather than the bolt-in. So I first removed the glove box cover, then unplugged and removed the actuator. However, when squeezing myself in to look at the area to be cut (I'm a pretty slim guy) I had some doubts about being able to do this job. One post suggested removing the passenger seat but I decided to first try doing it with the seat pushed all the way back. To gain a little more room I took out the floor mat on the passenger side. I had ordered a pencil soldering iron that had a knife edge attachment to make the cut. To get in a "comfortable" working position I put an ottoman next to the running board with a couple of old foam pillows on top to support my body in the hip area and slid under on my left side. Referring often to the pictures I outlined the cutting area with a red magic marker. I used one of those small flashlights that band around your head for illumination but found it worked best just laying on the floor facing up.

The hot knife cutting worked somewhat but I found that it would partially re-seal the cut area as I progressed so I ended up starting the cut on each of the 3 sides with the hot knife and then cutting the rest of the way with a sawed-off hacksaw blade (about 6 inches long). Hint: when you get to the area where the bottom shaft of the blend door sits you will have to progress slowly until it allows the cut portion to bend down and away without breaking . I actually used the hot knife in this area going a little further at a time and the heat facilitated the material bending down to get the blend door out. Push up on the blend door and pull down on the cut flap and it will come out. Mine slipped out along with pieces of the shaft - it was broken at the top of the shaft as shown in the pictures.

Here's something important: Some of the smaller shaft pieces and alot of the cutting dust ends up in the socket that holds the bottom of the blend door shaft. I used plumbers grease on both a toothpick and on Q-tips to swab the area clean so the new blend door could turn freely. Once you get to the point where there is no more debris on the swab then put a dab of grease on your finger and force it into the shaft opening. This will give the new blend door a smoother "ride".

The new part is available at Napa and on the internet, including a few eBay sites. I paid $15 at Napa for a kit which includes other parts for doing this job differently (which looked to me to be more cumbersome.) There are different blend doors for various Ford models so make sure your model will accept what you are ordering. If you purchase locally from Napa bring the old part in with you to confirm the match.

For easy installation hold the new blend door at about the 2 oclock position as it will sit inside the plenum. Visually observe which way the actuator shaft will have to be set to line up and mate with the door. Then plug in the actuator (still not installed) and hold it facing front just as it will sit when put back in position. Then turn on ignition key and move temp control knob until the stem is in the same approximate position that the door will be in at that 2 oclock position.

Now unplug and re-install the actuator. Slide the new door up and in moving it around the 2 oclock postion. You will know it is in place when you feel it slide up slightly and you can't move it back and forth anymore. Hold it there so it won't slip out and push up on the bottom to slide it towards the greased socket in the cut flap. Once it drops into position use duct tape to hold it in position. Plug in the actuator. Turn on the ignition and rotate the temp control to confirm correct operation.

I had duct tape cut and ready near the work area - two one-inch strips about 4 inches long and I taped the flap in place on the right side. Take it for a drive and test the heat and air in all positions and satisfy yourself it is working properly.

I had bought epoxy for plastic at home depot (it's a putty that you knead and push in place) and covered the entire cut opening except the taped area and let it set for 24 hours. If you keep your hands and fingers wet it is easier to knead and you can roll it in strips to apply. Once applied you can smooth it out with a wet finger. The next day I covered the dried epoxied areas with black duct tape and it made for a nice neat job even though you can't even see it.

As I said I had serious doubts about trying this but the hardest thing was working in that confined area. Everything else went off without a hitch.

glad to hear it went well. im 6'3, so it was much easier to take out the seat. a couple of bolts, a wire harness to unplug and it comes out. game me a TON more room to work. i had great success with the hot knife. no problems with the plastic melting back to itself. i also used rtv to seal the cut back up. so far no problems, but then again its only been a week or 2. im thinking, this part broke, its going to break again. i would rather have to cut through the softer rtv than deal with any type of epoxy.

 

[Rich Roebuck]

I hear ya on the epoxy. Let's hope I don't have to do it again. I purposely looked very closely to the construction of the new blend door and the Napa part looked like the top of the shaft, which broke on the original, was much thicker. So hopefully they reinforced it enough so it will last until I part with the SUV,

 

[rendenbu]

Magicland's Blend Door Procedure

Does anyone have the jpg photo pics for Magicland's Blend Door procedure?
I am unable to view accompanying photos through this thread. Any help much appreciated.

 

[Rich Roebuck]

See pictures from DaExplorer at thread 73

 

[white_shadow]

Does anyone have the jpg photo pics for Magicland's Blend Door procedure?
I am unable to view accompanying photos through this thread. Any help much appreciated.

you can also google "explorer blend door fix" to find pics.

 

[DaExplorer]

Does anyone have the jpg photo pics for Magicland's Blend Door procedure?
I am unable to view accompanying photos through this thread. Any help much appreciated.

Start with #73 of this thread. I got lucky while at the junk yard and found one outside to cut up and take photos of to help replace the missing ones. You have to do it from down under so seeing where you are from you should have no trouble at all. All kidding aside. it is not all that hard to do, just kind of scary to make the first cuts. Make sure first that it is not a bad actuatior.
Let us know how it goes.

 

[bahome]

Have the pictures been removed from this message? I signed on as a forum member, but still can't see them. The tutorial reads really clear, but it's pretty difficult to follow without the pics. July 2012 and people are still using it!

 

[DaExplorer]

Have the pictures been removed from this message? I signed on as a forum member, but still can't see them. The tutorial reads really clear, but it's pretty difficult to follow without the pics. July 2012 and people are still using it!

Look at. #73 of this thread.

Welcometo the forum.

 

[fordbeater]

HeaterTreater also has videos of their metal door installations online.

 

[sleino]

Blend Door for Auto Climate Control

Hi all, I seem to be obsessed with this site...so much info! 1998 V8: Heater core & blower work great. I have the holes cut & the broken blend door removed. Actuator is working fine....I can't seem to locate a new blend door for auto climate control though. Is it the same as the ones for manual? (Dorman 902-202 / 902-221?)
It's getting cold up here and even though we only use the Ex for short distances I refuse to go another winter with no heat!

 

[Rich Roebuck]

See my thread #86. I got my kit at NAPA Kit 660-1810 also available on the internet for '98 Mountaineer V8.

 

[sleino]

thanks Rich! After reading most of the posts regarding this they all start to gel together! That's exactly the kit I have coming from Napa today....I'll let you know how it turns out!

 

[Rich Roebuck]

Great. Let me know and forget the instructions that come with the kit - too much work.

 

[sleino]

The saga continues.....the napa replacement door 660-1810 is an EXACT match for ours with EATC even though all descriptions say "manual a/c". 12 bucks and comes with high quality templates (for repair from TOP of plenum, if completely removed). Hardest part is cutting and getting the old door out a big enough hole.
New problem is that the air won't switch locations when the vent/floor/defrost buttons are pressed. I've looked at the threads and maybe it's the vacuum ball? Can't find it though...do I look from the top or underneath to locate it? Maybe it's something else? Feel like I've opened a ca of worms! Any help greatly appreciated.