David, In searching my local auto parts store's loaner tools on-line, it looks like O'Reilly's may loan the OTC valve compressor tool, so that will save me a little money. In the tear-down video I watched from fordtechmakuloco (FTMUL for future reference) he discusses the 2 valves where the tool wont fit and how to get around that. No one lists the OTC Cam Service Set. Next week I plan to ask my mechanic buddy if he has cam service kit and if he's willing to loan it to me. If I have to buy the OTC Cam Service Kit I suppose I can sell it when I'm done and re-coupe a little of my money.
Yesterday I spend some time putting together a list of tools and parts I'll need to acquire for this job. I included replacing one cylinder head, a new water pump, an aluminum T-stat housing, gasket/seal sets, Motorcraft SOHC timing set, new head bolts and more minor stuff (like sealant, a new oil pressure switch, oil, oil filter, antifreeze and a new battery). In my worse case scenario it looks like I'm currently pushing $1700 U.S. (plus all my free labor). That probably seems reasonable to you, due to what you have to spend to get parts in the Philippians, but it seems like a lot of money to me. This will push my total investment in this vehicle to-date to around $4400, not figuring in the 5 years of service I've gotten out of it. For that much money I could have bought a super clean, low-mileage, much newer Sport Trac (or F150) and who knows if my trans will hold up for the future. I hope this project is worth it. I kinda wish I'd never bought this vehicle, but I must admit I've enjoyed the journey in fixing it up (keeps me off the streets at night... LOL). This truck reminds me if how I used to feel about a boat I once owed. They say a boat is a hole in the water that you throw money into, and that the 2 happiest days in a boat owner's life are the day he buys it and the day he sells it.
Well, time to go turn some wrenches.
Update:
Spend about another 2 hours on the engine today. All electrical and vacuum lines numbered and disconnected from the engine, PCV line and its coolant lines disconnected from the intake near the throttle body, all eight intake manifold bolts out, intake removed (and the foam bag that sits under it - noise reduction?), ECU and grounds disconnected.
I'm now looking at the big shiny stainless steel fuel line connection (looks like a stainless steel check valve) between the engine and the fuel filter (I'll post a pic of what I'm talking about later). At first glance I don't see how this thing comes apart.
@david4451, you said you used a 3/8" plastic disconnect tool on yours, but I don't see anyplace to use the tool on mine. Mind you, I didn't get a good look at both sides of it yet. FTMUL said to leave this fitting for last in case fuel dripped out while you're heating up the EGR tube nut on the exhaust header with a torch, but he never showed how he disconnected it.
