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Ford Explorer Community - Maintenance - Modifications - Performance Upgrades - Problem Solving - Off-Road - Street
Explorer Forum Covers the Explorer ST, Explorer Sport, Explorer Sport Trac, Lincoln Aviator, Mercury Mountaineer, Mazda Navajo, Ford Ranger, Mazda Pickups, and the Ford Aerostar
Thanks guys. I haven't been home at all today to get pics. I drove the Noma to school again so I could go straight to work to lower it. It looks/rides awesome..pics later (Sonoma). Caleb, there are plenty of hotels around here. I'll be busy for the next few weeks with graduation, work, etc. I'll talk to you about it on AIM soon tho. I'll try to get some pics in the next couple of days.
I said that I was going to measure for them once it's all put together, but was planning on running ES3000s from an F250 w/ 4 or 6" lift (free). They won't reach at ride height, so I have some stock rear RS5000s from a King Ranch. They are about 4 inches longer, so they'll atleast reach at ride height. Like I said before, I'll measure for them later and get adjustable Ranchos.
Here's some pics that I had on the camera. I'll try to get pics of it all finished, later tonight. I got some pics from the awesome welds on the trac bar mount(the plate is getting bolted to the steering box). I'm pretty embarrassed to even say that I spent 45 bucks on that adjustable trac bar mount. The welds penetrated well, but they sure aren't pretty. They're half ass ground down...I would've spent less money cutting the steel and having my neighbor weld the thing from scratch.
For anyone wondering what size the allen bolts are for the Warn hubs, it's 7/64". It's definitely not a common size, so I didn't have it, but luckily my neighbor did.
In the last picture, you can see the driveshaft angle. I set up the perches the same way that 034x4, and others told me too. I always thought that the yoke and driveshaft were supposed to be an identical angle, but obviously not (Extreme 4x4 and Horsepower TV said to do the same thing that 034x4 told me). I've had it up to 50-55mph and it's perfect. You'd think that driving with a set of torn up BIAS PLY 37" Maxxis Creepy Crawlers and what I thought was a bad driveshaft angle, it'd have a lot of vibrations, but that's definitely not the case!
Is your rear driveshaft a double cardan type? If it is, grind the spring perches off and re-weld them with the pinion pointed straight at the transfer case.
No, when I had it made, I was pretty much outta $$ and just had it lengthened. I decided that I'd just get a double cardan added if I had vibrations, but like I said, it rides really smooth...and remember this is after me coming from driving a nice lowered Sonoma. It's no Cadillac ride, but for 8" of lift, AAL, 37s, etc I think it rides great.
In the last picture, you can see the driveshaft angle. I set up the perches the same way that 034x4, and others told me too. I always thought that the yoke and driveshaft were supposed to be an identical angle, but obviously not (Extreme 4x4 and Horsepower TV said to do the same thing that 034x4 told me).
This is his reply from a different PM. I don't have the PM that I sent (so that you understand what I said about #1 ,etc.)
"Close.
#1 is correct. T-case output is at 4*. So you want your pinion angle to get 4* so you don't have any driveline vibrations.
#2. Mounts the leafs on the truck, and on the bottom of the leaf, where the spring perches will touch, measure that. Mine were about ~2*.
#3. Set the axle on jackstands with the pinion at 0*. If you put the perches on at 0*, the spring would rotate the pinion up 2*. But you want 4. So with the pinion sitting at 0*. You want to weld the perches on at 2* (that is, the front of the perch is angled down, torward the pinion 2*) and thats who you get your 4* pinion angle.
Lemme know if ya got anymore questions, glad I can help."
Jason, I'm probably taking it offroad tonight or tomorrow.
Cool, but there aren't any places that offer real offroading within 2-3 hours of here... where are taking it? You got a hookup that you're keeping secret?
And if you say Suwanee Creek or PIB I'll come torch it apart while you're asleep!
Bring it by one day next week. I'd like to take a look.
I won't be around much next week. I'll try to though. I don't know where we're gonna go offroad. Remember now, 1. this is the first time the new suspension has gone offroad, so I want to take it easy and not break something the first run out (atleast I know the welds are not gonna break!) 2. The front axle still has 3.50 gears, so I'm still 2wd, but atleast I can have 2lo.
oh ok.. 2wd only for a bit. At least it moves finally! Go ramp it on a receiving dock ramp. See what it can do. Or if the 4wd parts center folks left their ramp out there.
Looks good. You have been talking about it for long enough! You critized mine and a bunch of others if I remember right, so I think I deserve to scrutinize yours!!! I think you need to hack the crossmember. If you are getting any good amount of uptravel it will make contact. Mine made contact with 6" springs and a hacked crossmember on speedbumps. Of course yours is FW and that will make significant difference. Also, I think you will regret the steep angle of your trackbar- Good thing your mount is adjustable. You would get more travel with less bind if it were closer to level (speaking from experience- mine is super steep) it forces the axle to much laterally from droop to stuff when the tracbar is steep like that. You should move your tie rod over knuckle and move the Trackbar mount down a few holes. That would probably improve your travel. Lastly, I think I would brace that Tracbar mount or something. To only have it welded on the tip to that flat stock would worry me.
I dig the Bob Meyers coil seats! Get out there and wheel that thing!! It looks way to pretty- it needs some good dents! 2wd is no excuse!!