Doubler Time!!

[colindo94]

The time has come to slow down the truck. I just picked up a T&M doubler (thank you positivevibes) and am in the process of installing it. It's a little more involved then I expected, but what isn't. The plan is to fab up some shifters that are clean and close to one another so they come through the stock hole (or close to it). They are both manual tcases. Build a custom tranny/tcase mount to support the heavy SOB. And incorperate a flat belly skit to protect my undercarrage. Have some driveshafts made...and slap it in double low and watch the 200.1 go to work up the driveway

I need some ideas for shift linkage. I like firezappers set up the most, but have some of my own ideas. Im searching for a pic of his setup so someone can help me find the materials he used(joints).


heres the ugly patient

 

[lifeguard379]

what would you call that color? lol
and how much longer is that then stock?

 

[colindo94]

my friend calls it poop yellow, but I'd say it's kinda puke like. trust me.....it won't be that way for long. The length is extended 8.25". Pushen it for you sport guys. I can fit it because I have about 12" to mess with before I hit the gas tank. I have seen this setup it bronco11's and sports, but the tank is moved.

 

[IZwack]

Some linkage ideas from my shifter a long time ago:

Those are 3/8" heims (female shank as opposed to the usual male shank). The tube in the middle is a 1/2" tube (3/8" ID) purchased from Home Depot. Of course the threaded sections are just bolts with their heads cut off.

 

[colindo94]

Where did you come across those heims? and did you just weld the bolt inside the tube? Thats a clean solid looking set up.

 

[IZwack]

Where did you come across those heims? and did you just weld the bolt inside the tube?

I got them from a place in MD called Jack's Small Engine. However, these 3/8" heims are everywhere and a common use for them are on go-kart steering links. Check E-bay though, there are plenty of them there. And yeah the bolt bodies are just welded straight into the tube.

 

[colindo94]

Alright, thanks Iz. I found them on ebay for $3.

 

[Burns]

Man i you got to let us know how this goes. I have a few ideas working for the explorer right now and this is one of them....

 

[colindo94]

Heres firzappers set up for reference. I like this one the most.

 

[FAT CAT]

Heres firzappers set up for reference. I like this one the most.


This looks like a good set up.

I use a pull up/push down direct link for the doubler and an electric switch for the t-case. (wish I had a manual case)

 

[Mickelsons]

What do the handles on the in side look like on firzappers set up?

 

[Dannyboy]

Nice, good pictures, keep good notes of how you did this, perhaps even build up a spare crossmember, I just so happen to have a 4 door 1st gen that wants this setup.

 

[FireZapper]

Currently still just flat stock.

But thinking about cutting them at floor level and then welding round stock and a knob to them.

 

[Dannyboy]

that right there is slick Firezapper. So our T-case only has one set of gears available? Any chance we could get a different size low or high range in those cases or a different case? Sorry if I'm getting off topic

My ideal setup would be
case 1 high case 2 high = balls out
case 1 low case 2 high = a little slower speed with tons of snort (in 4x4 or 2wd)
case 1 high case 2 low = regular low range
case 1 low case 2 low = not as low as what you guys are achieving, but a lower crawl ratio than stock low range.

I guess what I'm trying to find out is if there is a doubler for our t-cases that would actually have a higher than stock low range ratio. I would put it in the first case. Maybe I need to look at something like an atlas or maybe I need to stop cluttering this thread.

I've pm'd rockranger a few times on his doubler, he swears up and down by that thing.

 

[IZwack]

Unfortunately we dont have enough of a market for someone to cut gears for us of a different ratio (unlike the Toyota and Samurai group). To add to the problem, the biggest obstacle in changing the gear ratio is our transfer cases use a somewhat complex planetary gear design -- where as other designs utilize just use spur or even helical gears (like again, the Toyotas and the Samurais).

I was impressed by RockRanger's double-LO when he got out of the vehicle and the vehicle climed up an incline at Thaven

 

[94 Crawler]

Woops I forgot mine is grazing in the yard and not the shop I'll get som pics tomarrow when there is more light and less rain. But I used 1/2" cold roll for the handles (shapes easy but heavy enough to get the job done), Then cut I Think 5/16" holes in top of the rods, made studs from bolts and used knobs from an 8N ford tractor, sourced localy at the tractor supply, they were cheep and strong. I also used 3/8" himes but I threaded the rod. The left hand fine thread 3/8 tap was tough to find. I know mine is different being np203/205 but I'll still get some pics.

 

[Mickelsons]

Thanks for the interior pictures, I really like the setup!

 

[RockRanger]

Only way to get a different gear ratio in the t case is to get an Atlas.

How are you getting a 200:1 crawl ratio?

 

[colindo94]

I read this thread on pirate. If you go down to almost the last post it shows how a member found his final gear ratio by multiplying all the numbers. If it's incorrect then I'm sorry for the false information.

 

[FireZapper]

In the last couple years. Numbers with autos have been using the torque converter as part of the crawl ratio.

With my 5 speed I'm at 117:1