Doubler adapter producers???

[rguy]

I've searched "Doubler" and "Stubler" and it looks like DD Machine and T&M are the only producers of an adapter for a DIY doubler. It looks like at one time DD had a problem delivering. Has that improved? Does anyone else make an adapter kit?

Thanks.

Rob

 

[redranger4.0]

I've searched "Doubler" and "Stubler" and it looks like DD Machine and T&M are the only producers of an adapter for a DIY doubler. It looks like at one time DD had a problem delivering. Has that improved? Does anyone else make an adapter kit?

Thanks.

Rob

T&M hasnt made doublers in years. You might find a used one floating around but nothing new.

 

[CopyKat]

Grem also stopped making the stublers. So Duffy seams to be the only guy making them.

 

[RockRanger]

I got the d.d. one. One of the best mods I have made to my truck. I am using a 1354 as the rear case in my setup. There was some talk of him making one using a jeep rear tcase. If I could do it again that is the one I would get. Put a rubicon tcase behind it with the 4 to 1 and you would be in the 150-200 crawl ratio. I have 104 and it works good but a few times I would have liked a bit more.

 

[MickeySpiers]

Grem also stopped making the stublers. So Duffy seams to be the only guy making them.

I've been trying to track down Duffy for a month, no call back yet tho...

 

[RockRanger]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=759587

Sounds like duffy may be no more

 

[rguy]

there was a guy on TRS that PM'ed about this. He was selling the shaft for like $250.00 but I forget the price of the plate.

Rob

 

[Kirby N.]

What happened to duffy? I have almot got my D and D in and I am stoked. Hope I don't break it!

 

[IZwack]

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=759587

Sounds like duffy may be no more

Woot - thanks for the link, I finally understand the 6 gear vs 4 gear planetary.

 

[redranger4.0]

These are the planetary assemblies. The left is the 4 gear 1350 planetary, the right is the 6 gear planetary from the 1354. The cover for the 1354 is also thicker around the mating flange which is another plus.

To use the 6 gear planetary from the 1354 in the 1350 case, the shift fork and gear from the 1354 must also be used. This is because the shift gear from the 1354 is larger and thicker then the 1350's. The 1350's fork and gear are on the left again, while the 1354 is on the right. The 1354 is not only larger but it has a better bushing system between the shift fork and gear. The tooth engagement on the 1354's gear is also much larger, its about double that of the 1350.

 

[redranger4.0]

Heres my "custom" adapter.

 

[IZwack]

Wait wait wait, who is this redranger4.0 from Bawston? :
You havent been on for a while! But I'm glad to see you again.

Thanks for the pics!

 

[redranger4.0]

Wait wait wait, who is this redranger4.0 from Bawston? :
You havent been on for a while! But I'm glad to see you again.

Thanks for the pics!

Ive actually graduated from college, so Im back home in CT. I havent had alot of time to work on the truck. I swapped in the 6 gear planetary to my 1350 low range box. But I have been building a motorcycle and trying to get a job so I havent done much as far as the truck goes.

 

[IZwack]

Ah gotcha, well as long as you're keeping busy up there! I'll see you on the trail sometime.

 

[Dannyboy]

Okay, I wasn't going to ask because I know there is a lot of threads on doublers, but does anybody have a DIY doubler build thread for dummies they recommend? (especially RockRanger)

I saw this one http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring07/BW1350_1354_doubler.htm and it looks do-able, but I don't know about making my own output shaft.

Also, about 3 years ago I went to the junkyard and pulled a C5 transmission and a 1350 transfer case out of an old Bronco II thinking I would need it. Would this be a good donor? According to this article is says yes.

So if I were to build this could I keep the push button on the rear case and a lever on the front case?


Also curious, this article says DO NOT put the doubler case in low and the transfer case in high. Any reason?

 

[CopyKat]

Ya that one by Todd and Evan is about the best DIY article you can get.

I'm still trying to find a shop to turn down my spline section and bore out the tail shaft. Everyone around here doesn't want to touch it or want's over $400 to just modify the shaft.

Ya any 1350M is a good donor. They are cheap and plentiful. You can keep the electronic shift out back and the manual up front but becomes an issue if you have a stock fuel tank. It gets tight with the extra length of the drivertrain.

If you put the doubler in low and the t-case in high you get alot of torque through the stub shaft and will likely brake it. Damn I wish I could get mine back together.

 

[IZwack]

Okay, I wasn't going to ask because I know there is a lot of threads on doublers, but does anybody have a DIY doubler build thread for dummies they recommend? (especially RockRanger)
I saw this one http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/spring07/BW1350_1354_doubler.htm and it looks do-able, but I don't know about making my own output shaft.

That thread has plenty of info!

This thread probably wont help you much if you've already gone through the one you linked to but this one is probably one of the very first doubler threads (2005) for our transfer cases: http://www.rrorc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=21585

As for the output shaft, usually you'd need the splines machined. Yes people have cut and welded but thats kind of iffy. The main shaft I'm using I stole from RockRanger (punched him in the gut) since he already had a complete working unit.

Also, about 3 years ago I went to the junkyard and pulled a C5 transmission and a 1350 transfer case out of an old Bronco II thinking I would need it. Would this be a good donor? According to this article is says yes.

Yup.

So if I were to build this could I keep the push button on the rear case and a lever on the front case?

Yep, I think thats RockRanger's setup: doubler -> electric transfer case.

Also curious, this article says DO NOT put the doubler case in low and the transfer case in high. Any reason?

Thats because you would be stressing the main shaft of the doubler when you dont need to:
If you put the doubler in LO range, you're putting the stress on the doubler. But you can get exactly the same result if instead you put the transfer case in LO range - with the added benefit of not stressing the doubler's main shaft (which is the questionable part) because any torque multiplication on behalf of the transfer case is seen as a torque reduction from everything upstream of the drivetrain (the doubler and the transmission)

 

[Dannyboy]

well, I know Matt's unit was cryrogenically frozen austin powers style so I'm sure I'd rather spend $400 for a shaft instead of finding out on the trail my welded unit wasn't welded strong enough.

Maybe I'll get crazy and build a trippler.....I kid, I kid. I thought the gas tank was an issue in the Explorer. I want to got to a cell behind the rear axle but don't really have the need for it.

 

[IZwack]

well, I know Matt's unit was cryrogenically frozen austin powers style

Yeah I do recall him saying something like that and the surface finish does look like it went through some process after cutting:

 

[barracuda]

hello.
I collect Doubler BW1356 + BW1356.
Help me find a shaft.
Where to buy.