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Need 4 More for Tom's Doubler from T&M Off Road Products

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97XEB

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'97 EB
I'm trading emails with Tom, from T&M Off Road Products, about his doubler (Tom's Doubler) for our Explorers. I need at least four more people, interested enough to put down a non-refundable $100 deposit, and we will have our doublers.

Why Tom's Doubler over an Atlas II?

1. Price - At $750 for the complete unit with shifter, Tom's Doubler is less than half the cost of the cheapest Atlas.

2. More Gearing >> More versatility - An Atlas provides only High (1:1) and Low (3.8:1 or 4.3:1) which is great if all you do is crawl rocks, or if you have the cash and transmission to combine it with a Klune V. I admit the Atlas II 4.3 & Klune V 2.7 Is The Ultimate, but it comes at a very high price, and isn't feasible for anyone who hasn't done the 700R4 swap. (Klune V won't bolt up to the stock X transmissions... I've called.) Tom's doubler provides High (1:1), stock low (2.48:1) and super low (~6.15 = 2.48 x 2.48) and since it's a BW1350, it's compatible with the Stock X transmissions and T-Cases.

PS: I searched this board to get as much info as possible and found this thread, which has died on the vine: http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=91098&page=1&pp=20

Based upon a comment in the thread above, I have specifically asked Tom about reported leaks and torched / welded surfaces Vs. machined surfaces. I also explained that since my X is my daily driver, I can't do this if his product is not reliable enough / built with such tolerances to be used on the street. I will keep you all posted on replies.

More Info on Tom's Doubler by T&M Products:

Direct from T&M's website: http://www.tandmoffroadproducts.com/

"T and M's doubler is an intermediate gearbox placed, between the vehicle's stock transmission and transfer-case. The Doubler has a high 1:1 ratio, neutral, and a low 2.48:1 ratio. Combined with the original transfer-case's 2.48:1, an ultra low 6.25:1 is attained, as well as neutral position for those vehicles with an electrically shifted transfer case. The Doubler comes with the hardware to bolt in between your transmission and your transfer case, and a custom shifter. The Doubler is a modified BW 1350 transfer case, and most all repair parts are available through Ford Motor Company parts. The main shaft is a custom machined and hardened one piece shaft, and the rear housing is specially fabricated. More versatile than a lower geared transfer-case and much less expensive than other reduction gear boxes, we feel this is the right solution for those needing a lower final gear ratio for their small ford off-road vehicles.
There are several vehicle modifications required to accommodate the doubler. Rangers will need the side mount fuel tank slid rearward 2 1/2" in order to clear rear of relocated transfer case. Ranger's, Bronco II's, and Explorer's will need the transmission cross member modified or replaced with a T&M heavy duty cross member. Also, the radius arm cross member will need removed or the radius arms replaced with extended types. These last 2 modifications are necessary to maintain adequate front drive shaft clearance. In all installations, both front rear driveshaft lengths are changed from original. No body lift is required, but would allow for less modification to floor sheetmetal. Basic tools are required and this enhancement can be done easily in one weekend.
The Doubler has a 180 day limited warranty in all vehicles with V-6 engines, and tire sizes less than 38 1/2" (although the Doubler will perform as well as any BW 1350/54 in a heavily modified vehicle)."


Please let me know ASAP if you are really intested enough to put down a non-refundable $100 deposit.

Thanks!!
 



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Are they going to be making the crossmembers as well? last time i was on the site it wasnt available, if i can get the cross member as well i might be interested.
 






97XEB said:
I have specifically asked Tom about reported leaks and torched / welded surfaces Vs. machined surfaces. I also explained that since my X is my daily driver, I can't do this if his product is not reliable enough / built with such tolerances to be used on the street.
This is my only issue, too. I've been wanting one for a while. PLEASE let me know what he says regarding this.
 






97XEB said:
I admit the Atlas II 4.3 & Klune V 2.7 Is The Ultimate, but it comes at a very high price, and isn't feasible for anyone who hasn't done the 700R4 swap.
This statement is probably just a typo, but I just wanted to clear it up. A Klune V is NOT a bolt-on on BW 1354 or 4405 (stock 4wd Explorer), BUT there IS an Atlas II which is bolt on.




oh, and the Atlas is basically bulletproof, unlike a 1354 with a chopped up 1350 attached to it :D
 






yeah i forgot about the issue of it leaking, if leaks I don't think it would be feasible to use on my truck.
 






This statement is probably just a typo, but I just wanted to clear it up. A Klune V is NOT a bolt-on on BW 1354 or 4405 (stock 4wd Explorer), BUT there IS an Atlas II which is bolt on.

No typo... As I stated in my original post, you can bolt in an Atlas II, and it will give you lower gears, but you cannot put a Klune V between the stock Ford X Transmissions and the bolt in Atlas - UNLESS you first swap out your stock Ford transmission for a 700R4, and have an Atlas for the 700R4. That is much more complicated and expensive.

I don't want just High (1:1) and Low (3.8 or 4.3). I want a doubler so I can run High (1:1), stock low (2.48:1) - great for sand, mud, hillclimbs, etc. - and super low (6.15:1).

Bolting in a Tom's doubler provides more versatility and a lower "Low" than just bolting in an Atlas alone... and it does it for about half the money.

I also know the Atlas is bullet proof, but I think two BWs will hold up fine for what I do - as long as I keep them well maintained, and as long as Tom's doesn't leak.

I'll keep everyone posted on the leak sitch.
 






Update on Tom's Doubler and Leaks

I got a response from Tom today about the leak concern:

On 2 earlier doublers we warranty replaced with due to
a fluid leak associated with a weld. this should not
be a problem. i have had one in my b2 for 2 years and
not needed to add transmission fluid. all oiling is
oem and reliabilty is identical to any bw1350/1354.

He has been great at getting back to me, very prompt, stands by his product, does have a warranty period and I've read positive things from other boards.

I'm willing to give him the chance, and I'm ready to put down my $100. I just need 4 more serious takers. Let's get this thing movin...

Thanks!
 












I'm a little confused... Is this a group buy? The $750 is the same price from the website(shifter included) so I was just going to wait until Jan to pick one up directly from the website.
 






Totally psyched to see more interest and this gaining steam!!! :thumbsup:

Jefe wrote:
Any idea how long this thing is going to be?
Quick Answer: 4 weeks from the time he gets 5 orders and deposits. (See below for long explanation.)



NOTAJP wrote:
I'm a little confused... Is this a group buy? The $750 is the same price from the website(shifter included) so I was just going to wait until Jan to pick one up directly from the website.

Long Answer to both questions:
I'm not sure if this is technically a group purchase either... In my first email exchange with Tom, about how I could buy one of his doublers, he indicated that he is not producing any at this time, and that there are none in stock. I guess he sold every one from the Oct 2004 batch mentioned on his site. Production will restart if he gets 5 orders, each with a $100 non-refundable deposit.

The doublers will be ready to ship 4 weeks from the time he gets 5 orders, with deposits. If we can get at least 5 people to commit by next Friday - Dec 17, he would be ready to ship by Jan 14.

If we get interest / $100 committments beyond the 5 needed to restart production, I will work on Tom to get a better deal and turn this into a group purchase.

It seems that Tom builds these things only in "to order" batches, so you might not be able to call and order one at any time. (That's really what I originally wanted to do...)

Hope this helps. Please let me know if there are any more questions, and if you are willing to put down $100.
 






90% sure I'm in....
 






Here's a quote by DangerRanger from the linked thread in the top post, regarding the doubler strength.
I have one of Tom's doublers, it's simple, relatively in-expensive and it works. I'm running a Bone stock 4.0/5spd/doubler to a very well used 1354, coiled RC 60 front/D70 rear, 5.13?s, Detroit?s and 42's. So far I've been on 5 HARD runs. 3 to Rubicon with about a dozen runs in the ?Box? and 2 Runs to a friends ranch where we have made a trail in one of his canyon's that makes the Rubicon look like a mall parking lot. I tore apart a poly bushing sleeve last weekend on my custom radius arms, bent the living crap out of my rear anti-wrap bar and I almost tore off my rear spring hangers. I've rolled a few times, driven on my side ALOT, had tires 5' up trees with my foot on the floor (hence the broken front radius arm) I've been beating the crap out of the truck... if two BW cases can take this till spring... they'll last a lifetime in a "normal wheeler"
 






I'm 90% in, too. :thumbsup:
 












It's 8 1/4".
 






That's good 'cause I do longer have to worry about long travel splines on the front drive shaft will all the flex. I needed the length ;).
 






Doug wrote:

Are they going to be making the crossmembers as well? last time i was on the site it wasnt available, if i can get the cross member as well i might be interested.

Tom got back to me today and said the crossmembers are not available, and it doesn't sound like he plans on making any more. Wish I had better news.

Are you still interested or no?
 






Any possiblility of a goup buy discount?
 






I may be interested too, depends on how this 5.0L conversion goes and how much room I have for a driveshaft on a BII when all is said and done :) Also depends on the news from the Hummer H3 BW T case thread......
 



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I'm interested. Sounds like a pretty easy install in the garage. How could we modify or replace our crossmembers if he isn't making them??? What is your estimate on the total price??? If the truck has a lift this would just make the install that much easier, correct??? And the $100 deposit would go to the end price correct?
 






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