Bkennedy's SAS and Rebuild Thread

[BKennedy]

Stock stuff or aftermarket?

Since going to the D44 in 2000 I've broken one Moser chrome moly axle and one CTM U-joint. The CTM I had was first gen and didn't have a radius cut into the trunnion and that's where it broke taking the axle with. Add to that one Superwinch hub, and that's all of the axle related breakage. The CTMs have a lifetime warranty. Moser axles don't but I think Superior has lifetime warranties on their axles. Not positive if Superior is the manufacturer that offers the lifetime though...

The long side shaft I got is a Superior chromoly axle. The rest are all the stock stuff.

 

[RockRanger]

All stock stuff. Three warn hubs, 2 sets of long side shafts and two sets of short side shafts I think. Might be another set or two in there as well. I have thought about alloy shafts but seems like the 44 stuff gets mixed reviews on how well it does. I keep thinking I will do a 60 front and something bigger rear. Seeing how I haven't had the truck out in almost two years it is kind of a moot point.

 

[BKennedy]

Pics wanted of my upper rear shock mount;

Goodbye TTB, thanks for the memories....

 

[turboexplorer]

I measured the wheel base on my Explorer. On the right side, its 113" and on the left its 112". I think the right side is pushed forward so it would go straight down the road. I am just going to push the axle forward so I have 114" on both sides.

Just for point of reference I moved my front axle center line forward exactly 2 1/2" and I clear the back of my front fenders with NO trimming with my 37's. Has been great and was nice not to have to trim the rear of the front fenders. Not sure how different the first gens are but that worked for my second gen for axle placement.

 

[DB_1]

Since we're comparing notes...did my sas in 2001 and had stock shafts and joints and never broke anything but no surprise there. 07 I finally broke down and got an aussie locker, superior shafts and longfield 300M joints. This set up has been bulletproof for me so far. Only breakage I've suffered is a broken hub but that was when I was trying to yank a stump out of my yard on dry pavement. I guess Superior is no more but Foote axle is the actual mfg of the shafts and are still available.
I feel I'm at the limit or at least my comfort zone with this axle and tire size...maybe 38's but my tires rub on my control arms as it is. I've got a D60 I've been collecting parts for about 2 years now. Except for the housing I've been buying aftermarket parts whenever I see a deal. Trying to buy the strongest parts I can afford.
My axle is an inch forward...wouldn't mind a couple more inches (that's what she said) but I have a long enough wheelbase as it is. I've trimmed the heck out my inner fenders, almost all of the battery tray is hacked out. The battery was relocated as well as some other goodies that were attached to the inner fenders and finally got to where my tires don't rub while keeping my ride height fairly low.

 

[Stic-o]

I though I said this already, but we moved my front axle 4" forward. No rubbing on the back, but I do rub a bit at full stuff tuning on the front of the fenders under the turning indicators. I also rub in the back just behind the doors a bit. Most of my rubbing is just a bit noise and some paint.

Haven't broke anything yet:JP:

I do plan on beefing up and redoing some stuff soon though.

 

[BKennedy]

Took the tires/wheels and new wheels over to Discount Tire to swap out the tires. While I was there I was approached by a guy who has a J&*p and wanted to know what I was going to do with the old wheels. I ended up selling them to him for $150.00. 16 year old, beat up, rock rash rims. I guess he can stick them on his J&*p and people will think he is an off-roader.

 

[DB_1]

Took the tires/wheels and new wheels over to Discount Tire to swap out the tires. While I was there I was approached by a guy who has a J&*p and wanted to know what I was going to do with the old wheels. I ended up selling them to him for $150.00. 16 year old, beat up, rock rash rims. I guess he can stick them on his J&*p and people will think he is an off-roader.

Score!

 

[Kirby N.]

Since everyone is comparing notes... I had a broke short side stock shaft and u joint which took out the Detroit locker as well. The unjoint went and destroyed the shafts. Prob would have survived with full circle clips. I also broke a warn premium hub and an Detroit ected after that before going with an arb and Yukon chromo shafts and joints. Never had any more problems with the front end. Mine was moved fwd 3.5" which was the max I could get with a 1st gen and the stock steering box location. I trimmed prior on the rear of the front fender but didn't have rubbing with 37s.

Yukon chromo shafts and joints have a lifetime warranty.

 

[FROADER]

I had a Yukon chromo shaft on the long side and stock on the short side. The only thing I ever broke in the front axle was 2 stock short side shafts. One with 35s and one with 36s.

 

[Kirby N.]

It could be done for under 5K, if;
You had a jig to get the axle housing straight and true while narrowing it, or did not care, or figured you could get it straight enough.
You set up/installed your axle housing internals, including a locker and gears.
You used a less expensive locker (or none).
You built your own radius arms, or used stock EB or F-100/150 stuff.
You already had some 5on5.5 lug wheels lying around.
You had a tube bender.
You used the brakes your axle came with.
You used the old bearings and seals.
You built your own steering and track bar (I still need to budget another $350 for the steering).
.

That is pretty much what I did when I did mine and I did it for well under $2500. That's not even subtracting the parts I took off and sold. I did however use all new seals and bearings and ball joints in the front end. It is pretty simple to narrow and keep straight with an angle finder and a 220v welder. I also bought a ton of used/ junk yard parts including used rs9012 shocks and used lift springs. Also, I modded mine after and upgraded everything. So the original was 2500 but I prob had 5k in it after I modded everything and worked out the loose ends.

 

[BKennedy]

I had a Yukon chromo shaft on the long side and stock on the short side. The only thing I ever broke in the front axle was 2 stock short side shafts. One with 35s and one with 36s.

Whatever you broke falls into the same category as Matt's.......it doesn't count since I have seen how you wheel.........

Got some real progress today. Got the passenger side TTB out. Tomorrow I should get the driver side out. Then I am going to pressure wash the 20 years of grease and dirt off the frame.

 

[gmanpaint]

Is that one continuous run of tube rail to rail?

Trying to figure out how you got it in there, if it is one piece. :scratch:

 

[BKennedy]

Is that one continuous run of tube rail to rail?

Trying to figure out how you got it in there, if it is one piece. :scratch:

I didn't actually do that, it was done during my "paying someone else what I could be doing myself" phase. I imagine it was done with a big hammer. The frame is pretty flexible so I don't see how it would be too much trouble to get it in there. Its only 2x2 square tubing, and it is one piece.

Got a lot done today. Pulled the entire old front suspension out, brackets and all.

 

[james t]

Is that one continuous run of tube rail to rail?

Trying to figure out how you got it in there, if it is one piece. :scratch:

It's very easy to get the tube in there with a hammer. Just make sure that's exactly how/where you want it because getting it back out if you change your mind is a level 9 PITA. I know this personally.

 

[BKennedy]

Coilover question:
Should I charge it with nitrogen prior to doing the mock-up, after, during, after the build is finished..........????? I was thinking of charging it after I get the coilover mounts finished.

And;
In order to mount the lower (axle) shock mounts, I need to mount them approximately 3/4" back from the center of the axle, so the forward shock tab is centered over the axle on the radius arm. It is the only way it will work which allows me to use both of the original coil dish tapped bolt holes, and the two top 9/16" bolt holes for the wedgie mounts. Due to the sheer mass of the Duff rear radius arm mount, I feel comfortable with drilling/tapping a 1/2" hole behind the original coil dish bolt hole for a fifth mounting point. The forged radius arm mount is 2" wide and over 2.5" deep at the location I want to add a bolt hole. I showed the mount to a fabricator who agreed my plan was sound.
On to the question:
Does the shock mount being 3/4" back from the center of the axle have any bearing on how it will perform/function?

And;
Those of you who trimmed your engine cross member. Did you trim both the front and back of the cross member, or just the front? Since there is nothing in the way right now, I thought I would take care of that.
And;
After it was trimmed, does it need to be supported? It was designed to carry the weight/load of the front suspension, and the engine. Without having to carry any of the suspension load, it seems like it could be trimmed without needing any additional support. I was thinking, if it needs supporting, I could weld a piece of angle along its length, making a triangle.
Thoughts??

 

[FROADER]

Mine was only trimmed in the front and I didn't have any issues or worries about it.

[MENTION=774]Trckmagik[/MENTION] with the a beer and the sawzall...

 

[BKennedy]

Mine was only trimmed in the front and I didn't have any issues or worries about it.

[MENTION=774]Trckmagik[/MENTION] with the a beer and the sawzall...

That's awesome!! I just got the "What are you laughing at?" from Sarah.
I am planning on trimming it with a cutting torch because what is the point of sawing when you have a cutting torch???

 

[DB_1]

If you have access to nitrogen just let the charge out, much easier to do mock up especially if you have the shocks in and out several times.

Shock valving/tuning will take care of shock placement issues. Leaning them in and or back, mounting them in front or back of the axle centerline will affect what the shock does.

I trimmed the front of the engine x member only...that's pretty much a case by case scenario. Trim where necessary. I never reinforced mine and haven't had any problems but it never hurts. I've always wanted to make something more low profile but quickly fall into "if it ain't broke" mode and move on to something else.

 

[BKennedy]

Thanks, Dave.