Completed Project My 98 super charged EX

1998 Explorer 4.0 SOHC
Bought it with a melted alternator/wiring harness from a junkyard for $1,000
Fixed it, drove it for two weeks, then I boosted it.
Started with an M90 supercharger kit from www.Bansheesuperchargerkit.com
Upgraded to an M112 Lightning supercharger that was a prototype kit.
Next was the M122 off a 2012 GT500
I have reached 20 lbs of boost (with ARP head studs) and a 12.83 in a quarter mile.

Pictures
1. How it looked when I brought it home.
2.The M90 supercharger installed
3.The GT500 supercharger installed
4.How it looks now
5.Wheelie

 

[4pointslow]

Car PC and Monitor

A while back (post 80) I posted some pictures, one was the amp and another box next to it on the left. Here is more pictures that go along with that.
This is how I do my data logging and retuning.

 

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Ex

Now you just need a set of 4 ,31x10.5 drag radials

I wonder how that would handle at 100 mph. lol.

 

[delexploder]

There is a guy around here in a srt8 jeep with spray, he has been riding around like that for about two years lol

 

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jeep

You mean with 4 drag tires on it?

 

[delexploder]

Yea, 4 matching ( awd) drag radials, he is very fast, not sure what he has done to an already fast suv but i can tell you he has hurt alot of peoples feelings

 

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Jeep

I am feeling a little hurt myself. Those SRT8 Jeeps are fast.
I never bought a brand new vehicle but if I was going to and I had like what $60,000, I would buy one and supercharge it. I wish I knew what brand tires he was using.

 

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Vehicle certification label

Green door paint is the label off my SC Explorer.
Blue paint is my 4 door

 

[delexploder]

I wanna say nittos, and his is supercharged, 6.1 hemi, and its on a bottle, I have seen him ridding through dover twice but we usually see him in OC during the car show weeks, my bud with the built 03 cobra got his feelings hurt the first time ,at the next light he took him a little more seriously and hit the red button,

 

[4pointslow]

cold air

2000Streetrod
I have a 3 inch pipe from the right front fog light hole to the original bottom piece of the air cleaner assembly. At higher speeds the cold air does come in.
See pictures in post 39 of this thread. My overhead display ambient temp sensor is in that lower air cleaner box still too, right below the GT500 air filter.
I will post a recent datalog picture.

 

[4pointslow]

Datalog

here is a newer datalog

 

[2000StreetRod]

Shift points?

That plot looks reasonable for temperature increasing as engine speed and boost increase. What are your shift points? Based on the graphs in post #81 I would think 6100 rpm would be about right. Slightly smaller diameter tires would compress the shifts and put you at higher engine speed in 4th at the end of the run. If you decrease the diameter too much you'll be in a 4th to 5th shift which you want to avoid.

I'm a little surprised about the 6.25 degrees of spark advance. I guess that's to avoid detonation at the high IATs. I don't see your knock sensor retard. Did you disable it?

Are the MAF counts calibrated for the GT500 MAF sensor? My max MAF count was only about 710 at 5800 rpm. I think James calibrated the count for my Lightning MAF sensor.

 

[4pointslow]

datalog

The IAT looks way better since the gear swap compared to what it used to look like with the 4.10 gears. But it was a cool 44 degrees out to. I want to see what it looks like at 70 - 80 degrees, have to wait for a while for that.
yea, cant go too small on tire diameter if I do change, would have to do the math first.
The rev limiter is set to 6250 but I swear it comes on too soon some times. Might just be my imagination. I tuned the shift points to just stop from bouncing off the limiter after the gear swap. Then I gave it a 2 mph buffer. I only messed with it to get it good enough to run it at ATCO for the day. Now I got to wait till next season to play around with it again. The thing is I will have changed things between now and then, like shocks and Cal tracs to start.
The knock sensor retard is the seventh one down, KS RTD. It is 0 because there is no knock being detected. When there is you see the number change right away. If the IAT's were down or I ran high octane race fuel that 6.25 could go higher. But not now. lol.

 

[4pointslow]

4.88 gears blinking 4x4 lights

After installing the 4.88 gears the 4x4 lights were blinking.
After some research and experimentation I figured out what to do.
The VSS comes from the rear diff speed sensor on my truck. It is an AC signal. From there it goes to the ABS module. The ABS module then converts it to a 12.5 volt square wave and send it to everything else. My speedometer was correct because tire size and diff speed sensor tone ring did not change. Only thing that changed was the axle speeds which were faster now.
I have Fords WDS, NGS, and SCT X3. turns out X3 could do nothing for the problem with the 4x4 lights blinking. WDS and NGS could. Tire size and tone ring size can be changed in the ABS module not the GEM. They did not need to be changed anyway. The transfer case speed sensors which are hall effect are wired to the GEM module. The ABS module sends the VSS to The GEM. I could watch the Transfer case speed sensors and VSS in the GEM module with the NGS (which is easier to throw around so I used that to compare and experiment).
The transfer case speed sensors were showing a faster mph than the vss in the GEM due to the gear change. The GEM did not like that and would disable the automatic 4wd after about 40mph or so. I had to shut the truck off after each run at Atco to reset it. I forgot once and there I was standing the converter when the last yellow light lit. I nailed it and the rear tires just spun. I had to let off and accelerate slowly to get her moving and ran a 16 second 1/4 mile. lol. Goes to show you how much that automatic 4wd is doing at launch.
So the fix for me was to lie to the GEM. But what signal. Both transfer case signals or one vss signal? I chose the one vss signal to keep costs down. For about $80.00 I got the device in the picture. It is adjustable, complicated but works. I ended up using output 1 instead of output 2 so the wiring is wrong in the picture.

 

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ABS to GEM

This is the signal from ABS to GEM captured with a cheap lab scope from MAC.

 

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Wire

This is the wire at the GEM module that is an input to the GEM from the ABS module. Gray with black stripe. Most likely different on different years or models.

 

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Gem

The GEM is in this hole to the left.
Also this is not meant to be a tutorial, just sharing information that might help someone with blinking 4x4 lights after gear change.
I also had to tune the transmission shift points, the X3 helped with that.

 

[2000StreetRod]

ABS VSS output

Thanks for posting info on the ABS VSS output. I had concluded from research that the output was a rectangular pulse but didn't have a scope capable of measuring the magnitude. From what I've read the frequency is directly proportional to vehicle speed and the scale is 8,000 pulses per mile. I hope some day to use that signal to control a pulse width modulated electric power steering pump. The motor speed would need to be inversely proportional to the vehicle speed. I assumed that I would have to design and build a pulse counter/converter for the VSS to PWM interface. But after reading your post I'll look for something commercially available first.

 

[2000StreetRod]

spark advance

Have you made PCM modifications for spark advance? It seems low to me and I think you would have more power if it could be more advanced. My latest normally aspirated dyno run is shown below.

Spark > bold green
Knock sensor retard > red
Throttle position > blue
RPM > orange
James has tweaked my knock sensor retard to minimize its effect on spark advance during WOT. The retard is 3.5 deg at time 0 (36 mph, 1600 rpm) and 1.0 deg at time 8 sec (64.5 mph, 2800 rpm). However, I'm concerned about possible detonation with forced induction and a desensitized knock sensor retard. I've replaced the after market one (that replaced the original one) with a Ford OEM one. I'm hoping it will be less sensitive and more reliable.
The combined spark advance is 21 deg at 6250 rpm.

 

[4pointslow]

Vss

2000streetrod,
In regards to the VSS signal, I calculated 255 70 16 = 690 revs per mile X 108 tooth tone ring = 74,520 pulses off the Diff speed ac sensor. That's my input to the Dakota SGI-5. Going from 4.10 to 4.88 spins the drive shaft faster so I wanted to make the vss faster. 4.88/4.10 = aprox 1.19 faster (88,678 pulses per minute) There was a chart for Coarse adjust/fine adjust. You set the SGI up by pressing and holding the up or down dip switch while turning the key on(powering SGI on while holding button) There are little leds to tell you whats happening. I chose Coarse adjust number 3 which is a 1.191 up change and then fine tuned it on the road test.
There are little dip switches numbered 1-4. Number 1 is for input type (AC or Square wave). 2 is for sensitivity (high or Low). 4 is for the type of output change (faster than input or slower than input).

3 is for output type and frequency range.
On position (signal in 64,000 - 256,000)
Output 1(AC / 128,000), Output 2(square wave 128,000) Output 3(AC / 8000) Output 4(square wave 4000) Output 5(square wave 2000)

Off position (signal in 4,000 - 16,000)
Output 1(AC / 8,000), Output 2(square wave 8,000) Output 3(AC / 4000) Output 4(square wave 4000) Output 5(square wave 2000)

So if you wanted a 8,000 square wave output for your electric power steering project then
Number 3 dip switch on for 64k-256k input off the diff speed sensor(AC) or ABS module(DC) and
Output number 3 would be 8000 AC
There is no DC 8000 signal with a 64k-256k input
I am sure you could hook 2 to together or come up with a ac to dc changer or just use another brand than this one that might work. Or maybe the electric power steering module will be able to accept AC as an input.

Now I wanted to use the square wave output 2 (Sqwave 128 range since my signal was going to be 88,678) but that was the only one I could not get the signal off of. Go figure. I ended up using Output 1 which was an AC signal and it worked. I emailed the seller and got a response back that didn't make much sense so I am awaiting another reply from them. I think what they are saying is that Output 2 is a pulsing ground output so you have to supply voltage through a 10,000 ohm resister to the circuit so it would show a high and low voltage. I guess that allow the user to select his own voltage to have 12 or 5 volt square wave etc. Maybe changing the resister spec too if needed. I should hear back from them after the weekend they say.

 

[4pointslow]

timing

2000streetrod,
Yea, I said goodbye to 20 degree's of timing at WOT a long time ago.
What software are you using for datalogs?