I get to pull the engine on my 2006 EB V8 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

  • Register Today It's free!

I get to pull the engine on my 2006 EB V8

Zorin

Active Member
Joined
October 31, 2017
Messages
93
Reaction score
16
City, State
Milton, KS
Year, Model & Trim Level
2006 Explorer Eddie Bauer
Yep!

After 23,000 mostly carefree miles of happy motoring, my Explorer started the dreaded tick tick tick of a warped passenger exhaust manifold. Figure, no biggie, I'm a pretty accomplished wrench, we'll fix it.

Yeah, right.

Explorer1.jpg


3 days, myself and a friend struggled, LOL! I got the manifold out, along with the starter, and the A/C compressor, fairly easily. Turns out, the studs on Cylinder one had snapped, but we anticipated this. What we did NOT anticipate was that the upper stud would be completely locked in the head. After trying two different extractors, and trying to heat the head a little, we still could not get it to budge, either in or out. The lower turned in as we drilled, telling us that one was coming out for sure. And it did, piece of cake.

I will share also, I bought a Ford Racing mini starter for it, hoping to replace my old original starter with a smaller one to allow for more airflow around the starter. It bolted up GREAT....only trouble is, it doesn't work with the 4.6L 3V with the 6R60. After installing everything, I hit the key to be greeted with a clunk and a WHEEEEEEEEEEE of a starter free-spinning. After removing it for inspection, I figured out that the Ford Racing mini starter bendix drive is shorter than the one on the Explorer....the bendix will not extend far enough to engage the ring gear on the torque converter.

So, I put it back together with only one stud in the Cylinder one exhaust...it's quieter, but I will be sending it to a shop to have the engine pulled and have the stud drilled out, and re-tapped. I will also have the shop replace all of the heater and coolant hoses and flush the coolant while they are messing with it.

Explorer2.jpg

Explorer3.jpg

Explorer4.jpg


A few folks told me to turn it in while it was nice and quiet, but it'll cost me about a grand to get a shop to pull it, and repair it. Can't replace this for a grand, certainly not with anything I like this much.
 



Join the Elite Explorers for $20 each year.
Elite Explorer members see no advertisements, no banner ads, no double underlined links,.
Add an avatar, upload photo attachments, and more!
.





They sell left handed drill bits just for that purpose. So instead of threading in when drilled, it backs out.
At work we have had good luck with some welding rods made by Lawson.
They are specifically designed for stud removal for studs broken off below flush.
and as long as you follow the directions we haven't come across one that wouldn’t come out yet.
Just need an arc welder doesn’t have to be fancy we used a 50 yr old tombstone Lincoln.
The coating on the rod must protect the threads.
 






BTW your pics didn’t show up for me, it could be me though
 






Thanks for the heads up! I think I fixed it. I did the old copy/paste, and they showed up on my screen.....I thought they showed up for everyone, LOL!
 






Also, I searched high and low for left handed drill bits. Couldn't find ANY.

We had a nice hole in the stud....we cut some bits down, nice and short, and got the 90 degree drill in there....we just could not get that baby to move, and we were scared of snapping an extractor off in it.

We also do not have an arc or a MIG welder at the shop.
 






BTW those 3v 4.6 motors are tough don’t beat yourself up. Not my favorite ford engine design.
 












Oh, sweet, thanks, man!

I'm still going to send it in. I was trying to accomplish this over the holiday weekend, because I can't be without it for terribly long, plus I don't have an arc welder. If I was to pull the engine myself, which I can.....it would be a matter of me working on it on only the weekends, which means it would be out of commission for several weeks at the minimum, LOL.

I'm getting a pretty fair deal from a friend who owns another shop to do the work.
 






I get it man
Just putting it out there maybe it will help someone else
Hope you get it sorted soon.
 






Pulling the engine out and dropping it back is 1 day affair. I did it it with a friend of mine (an Acura tech) on the driveway without a lift in about 10-11 hours, and it would take less but I wanted to replace bunch of other parts while I was there. I am not saying it's a straight job, but it's nothing like FWD cars.

IMG_3621_zps73l2fe3d.jpg
 






Also, I searched high and low for left handed drill bits. Couldn't find ANY.

We had a nice hole in the stud....we cut some bits down, nice and short, and got the 90 degree drill in there....we just could not get that baby to move, and we were scared of snapping an extractor off in it.

We also do not have an arc or a MIG welder at the shop.

Try looking for "reverse twist" drill bits, True Value has em.

Search results for reverse twist bits - TP Tools & Equipment
 






I'm trying to wrap my head around more air flow around the starter. I always thought the Ford Racing mini starters were for weight loss & higher torque reasons. Whats this airflow gain all about?
 






I have had multiple instances where starters get overheated and fail to crank. The problem gets worse as they age, and the windings and such get flaky.

The smaller starter has more airflow and thusly more cooling to avoid this.
 






Back
Top