Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff | Page 14 | Ford Explorer Forums - Serious Explorations

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Three Aussie Mechanics cannot repair the axle seals- Unable to remove C clips in rear 8.8 Diff

Man, I miss Townsville! Met ‘the one who got away’ in a great bar there. That girl was all sorts of beautiful...

Yeah, it’s just one of those things that can quickly get out of hand. Not that the membership as a whole disagrees (maybe they do, maybe they don’t), it’s just that we have members from all over the world, all sorts of backgrounds...so it can quickly spiral out of control and derail the purpose of the thread.

I think there is an off topic forum on this site, so feel free to start a thread there and debate/discuss to your heart’s content :)
Thanks for the suggestion but I would rather shoot myself:dead:. I have received too much help from this forum to risk stuffing it up again.
 



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Thanks for the suggestion but I would rather shoot myself:dead:. I have received too much help from this forum to risk stuffing it up again.
Haha you’re fine, friend. Don’t sweat it :)

How’s the work coming?
 






Haha you’re fine, friend. Don’t sweat it :)

How’s the work coming?
Well after realising I would probably never have the axles out again in my life time, I decided to:
Replace both Bearing/Oil Seals
Replace Handbrake shoes on both wheels
Replace Calliper Pads on both wheels
Replace rotors on both wheels.
As you can imagine that took some time to organise but they are all on the way.
The next step is installing the Bearings and oil Seals, but Boxing Day Hangovers are quite prevalent in this apartment block, I decided not to risk life and limb and will hammer them in tomorrow :hammer:
 






haha well I'm a girl and he's a boy so we fit the LNP-preferred arrangement. While he's reminiscing about sun-bunnies of times past we can hava scotch over our Exploder bonnets...you can mpress me with your DIY adventures & I can complain about the small fortunes I paid Melbourne mechanics to get her roadworthy.
Hah! At least I didn't put my foot in it.
The major DIY was caused by a leaking oil seal highlighted on registration renewal by a mechanic, who then realised that he would have to pull the axles out to fix it. After removing the diff oil and three hours later admitted he couldn't get the axles out asked for his time payment and walked away. This left me with an open diff in my carport, and no other repairer would do it in the carport.
Hence the magnificent support I have received from these guys/girls guided me through removing the diff pin, C clips and finally the axles. Enlightened me to identify parts and their function and what not to do.
My complete ignorance of this area of mechanics, never phased them and now tomorrow, with their help, I will start the re-install with all new parts- Not bad for a Gray haired 76 year old non mechanic:party:
 






Hah! At least I didn't put my foot in it.
The major DIY was caused by a leaking oil seal highlighted on registration renewal by a mechanic, who then realised that he would have to pull the axles out to fix it. After removing the diff oil and three hours later admitted he couldn't get the axles out asked for his time payment and walked away. This left me with an open diff in my carport, and no other repairer would do it in the carport.
Hence the magnificent support I have received from these guys/girls guided me through removing the diff pin, C clips and finally the axles. Enlightened me to identify parts and their function and what not to do.
My complete ignorance of this area of mechanics, never phased them and now tomorrow, with their help, I will start the re-install with all new parts- Not bad for a Gray haired 76 year old non mechanic:party:
yes bravo to you, very impressive. And indeed the fellas on here are super generous about sharing their time and expertise. I'm at the millenial-bought-herself-a-hey-wow-cool-$1000-camping/adventure-car-at-auction-yet-has-ZERO-clue-about- getting-it-roadworthy. Gimme 40 years - when I'm 68 & this car 62 ...and I may have worked it out
 






The first thing, check the radiator out and the coolant. This car does not like the really hot weather. Mine had more holes in it than Swiss cheese so step one was to replace radiator.
just installed two drawer system into the rear for $400, best thing I ever did, others cost $1200 + and a 80lt fridge with solar panels gives me a flexibility of power wherever I am with a dual battery system. Did most of this just before the diff drama and haven't tested it all out yet, my favourite place is Fraser Island or any beach area.
Regards Roadworthy, if you are in the RACQ or any car club, let them go through the car and give you a list of things to do by priority. Guaranteed this forum will step you thru it all.
I will look out for the boxing Kangaroo and help when I can
Safe Travels
 






Thanks for that. My dad has lived on his yacht for 15 years, I often meet him at Fraser island. Thanks for the tip about the drawers...typical non-car person I'd already bought out BCF in a burst of enthusiasm before my local grumpy gave me a LONG print-out of necessary repairs for this. Luckily it's summer, I live in the city so walk everywhere & train to work so don't need a daily driver.

Which is a good thing as dual-fuel (non?) tuning system is confusing everything (yes I'm on the wrong thread, I thought modified meant those hoisted up hoon cars ).

Yea gods my brain hurts trying to workout which local mechanic will rip me off the least. Clueless panicked 20-something female with broken down 20-something car known for systemic problems is a rorter's absolute dream!

Showing what a non-car person I am, when German Engineer told me about Liquid Moly, I've gone off on a tangent reading about the Nazi's prolific use of it for all their battleground vehicles.

Right now I'm on Autoclub Boxing Day sale website trying to work out the difference between engine detox, resealer & treatment...as I've heard endless theories about the dual fuel issue. Is it old worn spark plugs, clogged fuel injection system or a cyclinder misfire.? And don't even get me started on all these bits needed...bushes and links and calipers.

Oh well, I grew up surrounded by money-pit yachts, may as well keep the family tradition alive on land with a new 2021 hobby. Happy new year up there in what my indignant Ballina farming rels call "Queen Anastacia land".
A car is only dangerous when it won't stop. Not when it won't start 😂, so start with the brakes
 






Thanks for that. My dad has lived on his yacht for 15 years, I often meet him at Fraser island. Thanks for the tip about the drawers...typical non-car person I'd already bought out BCF in a burst of enthusiasm before my local grumpy gave me a LONG print-out of necessary repairs for this. Luckily it's summer, I live in the city so walk everywhere & train to work so don't need a daily driver.

Which is a good thing as dual-fuel (non?) tuning system is confusing everything (yes I'm on the wrong thread, I thought modified meant those hoisted up hoon cars ).

Yea gods my brain hurts trying to workout which local mechanic will rip me off the least. Clueless panicked 20-something female with broken down 20-something car known for systemic problems is a rorter's absolute dream!

Showing what a non-car person I am, when German Engineer told me about Liquid Moly, I've gone off on a tangent reading about the Nazi's prolific use of it for all their battleground vehicles.

Right now I'm on Autoclub Boxing Day sale website trying to work out the difference between engine detox, resealer & treatment...as I've heard endless theories about the dual fuel issue. Is it old worn spark plugs, clogged fuel injection system or a cyclinder misfire.? And don't even get me started on all these bits needed...bushes and links and calipers.

Oh well, I grew up surrounded by money-pit yachts, may as well keep the family tradition alive on land with a new 2021 hobby. Happy new year up there in what my indignant Ballina farming rels call "Queen Anastacia land".
Hah Ha, Queen Anastacia had most of us walking around with no masks and limited crowd sizes. Even OZ rules had to come up here to be able to play. . but the general advice given is Covid-19 is not a subject for this forum, I m trying to follow it.
 






Back Again to the Diff repair.
1. I finally located and checked the air valve on the diff. It is covered with a small piece of hose with a small air hole in it. It was very dirty and I cleaned the hole out so it appears it will do its job.
2. Took quite a time to clean the R/H axle shaft to an acceptable level. (Drivers Side on this Vehicle)
3. With the new tool set I got I found the insertion of the bearing and the Oil seal easy. The oil seal went in fractionally farther than I expected seemed to leave a little of its outer covering showing, is this still OK ? picture 2. I have a couple of spares if it has to be replaced.
4 I did the unforgivable of mixing a four bolts without marking on the packet where they came from. Hope you members can I denitrify where they belong Picture 1.
That's the problem of waiting so long for Parts and tools but today I got all my list and as normal started cleaning all the bits & pieces in their bags ready to install and found these nuts that I can't remember where they came from.
Sorry, hit the wrong reply

IMG_20201230_123524.jpg


IMG_20201230_123538.jpg


IMG_20201230_225045.jpg


IMG_20201230_225053.jpg
 






Back Again to the Diff repair.
1. I finally located and checked the air valve on the diff. It is covered with a small piece of hose with a small air hole in it. It was very dirty and I cleaned the hole out so it appears it will do its job.
2. Took quite a time to clean the R/H axle shaft to an acceptable level. (Drivers Side on this Vehicle)
3. With the new tool set I got I found the insertion of the bearing and the Oil seal easy. The oil seal went in fractionally farther than I expected seemed to leave a little of its outer covering showing, is this still OK ? picture 2. I have a couple of spares if it has to be replaced.
4 I did the unforgivable of mixing a four bolts without marking on the packet where they came from. Hope you members can I denitrify where they belong Picture 1.
That's the problem of waiting so long for Parts and tools but today I got all my list and as normal started cleaning all the bits & pieces in their bags ready to install and found these nuts that I can't remember where they came from.


View attachment 326123

View attachment 326124

View attachment 326125

View attachment 326126
what do you use to clean all the 'bits' with?
 












The bearings and seals look fine from those pics
 






Degreaser then brake cleaner. All the bits were nuts and bolts. Same on the axle shaft. Only put little oil on bearing, axle grease in the oil seal to hold spring
Just before 9pm here on NYE...the early fireworks are shooting off around the neighbourhood. So Happy New Year and best wishes to you and everyone else on here for 2021:D:bounce:
 






Those nuts are for the brake packing plate polts (the 4 bolts around the axle tube). The tab on them goes against the axle tube and holds them from spinning while you tighten them.
 






Those nuts are for the brake packing plate polts (the 4 bolts around the axle tube). The tab on them goes against the axle tube and holds them from spinning while you tighten them.
I should have guessed that as they were in the same bag as the bolts. Their unusual shape made me think they were made for something as they would have been manufactured individually. Thanks for the confirmation of their purpose
 






I have some high temperature bearing grease but my manual mentions using High Temp brake grease. Are they very different or can I use the grease I have
 






I would only use caliper grease. You’ll eat brake pads very quickly if your slide pins aren’t clean, polished, and greased.
 






I would only use caliper grease. You’ll eat brake pads very quickly if your slide pins aren’t clean, polished, and greased.
Thank you for your comments, but it didn't answer my question. As you can imagine mobility is a problem at the moment and if I can use what I have it saves me hiring a taxi.
 






Not sure how I didn’t answer the question...

Guess I’ll try it again.

Use caliper grease on calipers.

They aren’t bearings.

Calipers get WAY hotter than bearings.

Don’t use wheel bearing grease.

If you are going to use wheel bearing grease, don’t even bother pulling and cleaning the pins, leave them as they are.
 



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Not sure how I didn’t answer the question...

Guess I’ll try it again.

Use caliper grease on calipers.

They aren’t bearings.

Calipers get WAY hotter than bearings.

Don’t use wheel bearing grease.

If you are going to use wheel bearing grease, don’t even bother pulling and cleaning the pins, leave them as they are.
Thanks for your answer, not the one I was looking but you clarified it enough for me to consider a purchase for caliper grease.
Again thanks for the comments. I did notice a small packet of grease in my new brake pad box. Arranged a tube purchase thru eBay.
 






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