Dremel 575 right angle drill for exhaust manifold stud drill

[Bill MacLeod]

Not really necessary if you didn't bogger the threads. Chase them with a die and use antiseize when reinstalled. Chase the nuts also or use new with lockwashers. And I recommend double nutting the manifold studs. Use lockwashers here also. s/s if you can get them.

 

[boominXplorer]

A new manifold is less than $100

 

[Bazz270]

95.20$ from tasca parts
Came without exhaust side studs...

I will try to reuse the old exhaust studs..

 

[Explorer_PL]

How much are the new studs ? It may be a pain to get the old studs out. I would not bother.

 

[Bazz270]

Ive ordered new ones from ebay.and they are stuck elsewhere now


Local Israeli dealer have no any GEN4 studs on stock

 

[Explorer_PL]

Oh, I just noticed you are in Israel, now it makes sense Every parts store here has them for few bucks.

 

[Explorer_PL]

My old posts:

Solved - Another thread about exhaust manifolds replacement on 4.6 v8.

2006 v8 with 190k miles. I’ve been debating this for a long while (since about 110k miles), but got really sick of that problem in my Exp and decided to take care of that. First of all, not really a major issue but I still do not like the idea of exhaust gases leaking under my hood, and some of...

www.explorerforum.com

Solved - Exhaust manifold replacement using stainless steel studs - the verdict.

This is just for informational purposes and as a reference for anybody replacing the famous exhaust manifolds on the 4.6. I replaced both manifolds on my original motor at 190k miles about 4 years ago. Another thread about exhaust manifolds replacement on 4.6 v8. At about 200k miles I...

www.explorerforum.com

 

[Bazz270]

Thanks.

Actually ive discovered all the GEN4 manifold repair posts here prior to tools and parts purchase from US.

All the parts and tools costs twice (because of shipping,customs and all the delivery issues)
Total of approx. 800$ for the makita drill ,extractors,studs,manifold,gaskets,chemicals and my own time for this job.


But there is no any possibility for me to pay around 2000-3000$ for local ford dealer manifold stud removal job cost.

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Dorman 03131 will work ok.
But try the removal, your going to need the practice. Patience is key.
Heat from a propane torch, lots of penetrating oil, stud remover and breaker bar. Slowly back and forth, just like the plug removal.
If it breaks off, centre punch, drill and use a big extractor tool. You will need this routine for the head studs.

 

[Bazz270]

Now only exhaust side studs left.i will wait a bit for these studs to arrive in case of old stud thread broken or damaged.

Cordless makita drill is the same like the regular compact 120v one.with compact 2.5 inch key chuck.

Right angle dremel tool as a backup.

Extractors and drill bit set according to FordMakuloco channel.

Automatic punch (short 4inch one)

Studs,manifold and gaskets from Ford,nuts from Dorman and washers from local hardware shop.

Drilling liquid,pressured air,antirust,carbocleaner also purchased (spray cans).

 

[Blackhawkxx]

You are ready to go!

 

[Bill MacLeod]

Use hi temp (orange/red) gasket maker on both sides of the gaskets.

You have a solid plan, good luck and take your time. Slow speed (400/500 rpm) with the drill. Light and easy pressure.

 

[Explorer_PL]

Another option is to use a template. 4.6 and 5.4 are so famous for that and I think all engines that there is a template that you can bolt to the head using good holes and center drill the snapped one.
Looks something like the gasket but thicker material smaller pilot holes.

 

[Bazz270]

Yes

but if two opposite studs (i mean two studs of the same flange) snapped is this jig still will be able to center the drill bit?

Is it suitable only for the first pilot bit or bigger (like an 1/8 inch bit) drill bits too?

Maybe it is an option..never seen on-vehicle review about this jig

Only with the head out of the engine

 

[Bill MacLeod]

With the engine lifted way up on one side, it provides you with a better sight line. File, grind, whatever a flat spot on the broken stud. Mark where you want to centre punch with a black sharpe, then lightly press the auto punch at that location. Centre is key, have the drill perpendicular to the stud is key, small but sharp bits can allow for any readjustment. Use very light press, let the bit do the cutting. If the bit starts to flex, back off on the pressure as you are about to snap the bit.
Have patience and you will win the task at hand.

 

[Explorer_PL]

I did not center drill and later on I was sweating not to drill through the water jacket. Almost had a heart attack. Had to go from M8 to M10 then ended with M12 hole ....

 

[Bazz270]

With the engine lifted way up on one side, it provides you with a better sight line. File, grind, whatever a flat spot on the broken stud. Mark where you want to centre punch with a black sharpe, then lightly press the auto punch at that location. Centre is key, have the drill perpendicular to the stud is key, small but sharp bits can allow for any readjustment. Use very light press, let the bit do the cutting. If the bit starts to flex, back off on the pressure as you are about to snap the bit.
Have patience and you will win the task at hand.

Thanks.

I have two sets of new fresh drill bits for this job.

 

[07EddyB]

With the engine lifted way up on one side, it provides you with a better sight line. File, grind, whatever a flat spot on the broken stud. Mark where you want to centre punch with a black sharpe, then lightly press the auto punch at that location. Centre is key, have the drill perpendicular to the stud is key, small but sharp bits can allow for any readjustment. Use very light press, let the bit do the cutting. If the bit starts to flex, back off on the pressure as you are about to snap the bit.
Have patience and you will win the task at hand.

Just to note - maybe my situation was different but both of mine (only two snapped for me) broke off slightly recessed in the head.
I will also mention that even with the Makita things are going to be tight. I bought the corded right angle Makita just for this job. Both studs on the number 1 cylinder were broke. The bottom one I was able to drill and remove and even that one was not a completely straight shot. The top one - even with the passenger side engine mount unbolted I was not able to get a good line on it. I did not loosen the drivers side mount and that was probably why I didn't get the engine up enough but even the amount I did raise it was worrisome to me. At all times you are going to be working from such an angle that it's hard to even tell where the bit even is in relation to the stud. Your visibility into where you are working will frankly suck.
Take your time - don't hurry.
If all else fails, know that I'm running 7 studs in my passenger side manifold right now. Never got the top one out. I slapped the manifold on there and it went about 2 years before it started leaking again. At that point, I spent another 100 bucks and put a new manifold on it. The stainless studs held and the swap was easy compared to the first time and it's holding fine. Granted, I will no doubt have to do it again but know that if you just can't get that last stud out - the world didn't end. Slap it on and run it.

 

[Bazz270]

I will try to rise the engine to maximum with all 3 mounts released and fan shroud/upper radiator hose removal

My wife dad gave me some kind of small wired endoscopic camera ..

in worst case scenario
i will drill with another hands holding this camera or attached to makita drill tool

 

[Bazz270]

Hi all

today finished with all the accessories reassembly and here is my passenger side replacement summary:

after 12 hours rust penetrant soak,ive started working.

in my case 6 studs were broken (only cylinder num 3 studs were ok)

1. took apart all of the passenger side parts including wheel, serpentine belt,3 engine/trans mounts release ,upper control arm, fault manifold and HVAC heater hose.dont forget also to take this fan shroud apart and drain coolant (when engine lifted you can easily broke radiator inlet plastic hose and fan shroud upper portion) .

A/C compressor needs to be moved a couple of inches to the front (refrigerant drain no necessary if working gently )

there is really no any serious clearance problem with short Makita drill and engine lifted about 2 inch using 2tonn automotive jack thru wood piece beneath oil pan you will get an access to all of the 4 cylinders. Use good compact magnetic flashlight and work with hood opened.

2. then started drilling.4 studs drilled and extracted as described using regular extractor.of coarse centering is the key to good job:

3. two of 6 broken studs stuck in the threads. (my conclusion - use only reverse bits! ).almost burnt the engine compartment with propane torch LOL - not worked...

ended with 2 extractors broken inside both threads...annoying...it is really impossible to drill em out. Only milling or grinding will help. NOW dremel right angle adapter helped a lot with milling and grinding tools.

after working with milling tools you have to enlarge this threads say to M10 or M12 with helicoils or regular metric tap.

make sure not to drill more than approx. 20 mm or so inside valve head material.

in general there is no water jackets or pockets directly behind manifold stud threaded holes but anyway decided not to check it (upper valve 4.6 3v head view attached below)

M10x1.5 STI TAP

M10x1.5 helicoil thread (helicoil needs to be shorten a little for 20 mm depth hole install- you will get strong 12.5 mm outer diameter four full threads fastener -compaired to original M8 threads deeper area)

4. self made (from standard metric bolt) M10x1.5 stainless A2-80 studs (unable to find stainless ones in local hardware shops) and A4-80 nuts.locked with stainless spring washer and a bit of Duramax exhaust cement between nut and stud outer threads.

5. cleaned surfaces and new fresh gaskets installed:

6. new exhaust manifold and gaskets needs to be modified for M10 studs.then torque everything and discover your drivers side manifold ticking a little LOL.