2000 4.0 OHV No Crank / No Start

[97Sandbox]

Vehicle is a '00 Sport (built 08/99), 4.0 OHV + M5OD. It was running strong last weekend, then I disconnected the battery when I replaced a bad SRS sensor and wired in power seats. The battery was left unhooked for the week.

Today, I reconnected the battery to move the car but was met with a no crank / no start condition. I tried jump starting and it made no difference, so I took my battery to AutoZone to be checked. They said it scanned okay, but was only 43% charged and offered to charge it. Then once they charged it, they rescanned and it came back as bad. I bought a new battery, hooked it up and still had no crank / no start. New battery reads 12.4 V on my multimeter.

I started with the obvious things:
- Disconnected negative cable and cleaned connection at starter and ground on radiator support -- no change
- Checked fuses (including 175 A to power distribution box) and none were bad
- Replaced starter relay -- no change
- Inspected CKP, clutch pedal position sensor, and PCM connectors and found no signs of damage,

To clarify, all my interior lighting and dash indicators are still working but when I turn the key to start, I hear one click in the relay box under the dash and nothing else.

I started looking at starter troubleshooting in my Haynes manual, which references a starter relay with a push-on connector in the engine bay on the inside of the fender. I remember my '97 had this, but my '00 does not.

Can anyone offer some suggestions for what to try next in my troubleshooting? Thanks!

 

[Pete Deering]

Vehicle is a '00 Sport (built 08/99), 4.0 OHV + M5OD. It was running strong last weekend, then I disconnected the battery when I replaced a bad SRS sensor and wired in power seats. The battery was left unhooked for the week.

Today, I reconnected the battery to move the car but was met with a no crank / no start condition. I tried jump starting and it made no difference, so I took my battery to AutoZone to be checked. They said it scanned okay, but was only 43% charged and offered to charge it. Then once they charged it, they rescanned and it came back as bad. I bought a new battery, hooked it up and still had no crank / no start. New battery reads 12.4 V on my multimeter.

I started with the obvious things:
- Disconnected negative cable and cleaned connection at starter and ground on radiator support -- no change
- Checked fuses (including 175 A to power distribution box) and none were bad
- Replaced starter relay -- no change
- Inspected CKP, clutch pedal position sensor, and PCM connectors and found no signs of damage,

To clarify, all my interior lighting and dash indicators are still working but when I turn the key to start, I hear one click in the relay box under the dash and nothing else.

I started looking at starter troubleshooting in my Haynes manual, which references a starter relay with a push-on connector in the engine bay on the inside of the fender. I remember my '97 had this, but my '00 does not.
View attachment 342222

Can anyone offer some suggestions for what to try next in my troubleshooting? Thanks!

Did you try to start it in neutral? Also beep the horn and turn on the headlight; to see if they work?

 

[97Sandbox]

Did you try to start it in neutral? Also beep the horn and turn on the headlight; to see if they work?

Yes, I tried it in 1st and in neutral. Unfortunately, there wasn't any change.

I will try the horn and headlights in the AM and start multimetering my way around some more.

 

[KeenKilo]

When turn the key to crank, do the lights go out? My neutral safety switch was acting up I had to really stand up on the clutch pedal to get it to turn over.

Unrelated but have someone try and crank it while you shake the battery and cables.

 

[97Sandbox]

I will try the horn and headlights in the AM and start multimetering my way around some more.

Headlights work and horn works.

Ground is indeed ground and I have 12 V going into the power distribution box and to the alternator.

THEFT does not flash (just lights up solid like other warning lights) when key is in start position, so I am not suspecting PATS.

When turn the key to crank, do the lights go out? My neutral safety switch was acting up I had to really stand up on the clutch pedal to get it to turn over.

The interior lights do turn off when I turn the key from run to start -- don't they always?

I removed my floor mat and carpet and pushed the pedal truly to the floorboard and still had no crank / no start.



I also want to clarify, the electrical item mounted to the fender was a relay (not the actual starter solenoid), right? And this '00 just uses a relay in the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay?

Just want to make sure I'm describing things correctly as the relay, solenoid, and motor.

 

[Pete Deering]

Headlights work and horn works.

Ground is indeed ground and I have 12 V going into the power distribution box and to the alternator.

THEFT does not flash (just lights up solid like other warning lights) when key is in start position, so I am not suspecting PATS.

The interior lights do turn off when I turn the key from run to start -- don't they always?

I removed my floor mat and carpet and pushed the pedal truly to the floorboard and still had no crank / no start.



I also want to clarify, the electrical item mounted to the fender was a relay (not the actual starter solenoid), right? And this '00 just uses a relay in the main fuse/relay box in the engine bay?

Just want to make sure I'm describing things correctly as the relay, solenoid, and motor.

View attachment 342235

Thats works: My interior lights do turn off when I turn the key from run to start also.

 

[97Sandbox]

After checking what seemed like everything and finally convincing my wife to help me in the garage (no easy task at my house), I was able to have her start the truck with me tapping on the starter. Reman starter has been ordered and I should be back in business shortly after it arrives!

Sometimes it really is one of the obvious things... Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!

 

[EB4X]

"Headlights work and horn works." ...yes BUT did they dim / partially go out WHEN turning key to start ?
If so that indicates the power / connections going to your starter are good (eliminates them as possibility of problem) but a frozen (bad) starter is draining power - hence causing your headlights to dim while trying to start.

 

[Pete Deering]

After checking what seemed like everything and finally convincing my wife to help me in the garage (no easy task at my house), I was able to have her start the truck with me tapping on the starter. Reman starter has been ordered and I should be back in business shortly after it arrives!

Sometimes it really is one of the obvious things... Thanks for everyone's help and suggestions!

Just a note: I have not had a good experience with a remanufactured starter from AutoZone. I now only buy gold ( new).

 

[97Sandbox]

Just a note: I have not had a good experience with a remanufactured starter from AutoZone. I now only buy gold ( new).

Yeah when I saw how pricey the AutoZone starters were, I decided waiting a few days for one off RockAuto was the way to go. Ordered a reman AC Delco because it's a reputable enough name and affordable. If I have any issues, I'll be sure to mention them in this thread!

 

[Pete Deering]

Yeah when I saw how pricey the AutoZone starters were, I decided waiting a few days for one off RockAuto was the way to go. Ordered a reman AC Delco because it's a reputable enough name and affordable. If I have any issues, I'll be sure to mention them in this thread!

My remanufactured unit worked for 6 month. Then fail, they did not replace the bearings.

 

[KeenKilo]

The interior lights do turn off when I turn the key from run to start -- don't they always?
View attachment 342235

Yes that was to rule out ignition. Glad you got it figured out

 

[Justinwht]

View attachment 342235

The way I tested my starter and solenoid was to partially pull out the starter such that the bendix is free and clear of the flywheel, then shorter the two terminals (the signal lead and battery lead) together. If the starter spins, then the solenoid and starter are good

The 2000 and OHV starter is a bit of a problem.
First - the starter does not pull out easily like the YouTube videos show for the SOHC engine. It lacked a quarter inch clearance from the frame. I had to jack up the engine with block of wood on the oil pan.
Second - Only a Ford starter will work. The first time I replaced the starter I bought it from O'Reilly's. It went out two years later and they replaced it under warranty. BUT it was a different starter in spite of same O'Reilly's part number.
The original starter and the first O'Reilly's starter, the signal lead and battery lead matched; but on the second starter (with same part number) they were swapped. I went back to them with the warranty replacement one and found a picture on their computer and said THAT'S IT!, but the one they shipped was AGAIN the wrong one. The only way you can tell is by actually looking at the starter.
I finally located one from a Ford dealer a hundred miles away and next day shipped it. I asked him to send me a picture to make sure it was the exact replacement.

The Ford part number is Motorcraft SA858RM.

 

[Justinwht]

Another thing to check is the inertia fuel cutoff relay mounted behind the passenger side kick panel. In a collision, the inertia will push the relay plunger in. You can pull it back out.

 

[97Sandbox]

The way I tested my starter and solenoid was to partially pull out the starter such that the bendix is free and clear of the flywheel, then shorter the two terminals (the signal lead and battery lead) together. If the starter spins, then the solenoid and starter are good

The 2000 and OHV starter is a bit of a problem.
First - the starter does not pull out easily like the YouTube videos show for the SOHC engine. It lacked a quarter inch clearance from the frame. I had to jack up the engine with block of wood on the oil pan.
Second - Only a Ford starter will work. The first time I replaced the starter I bought it from O'Reilly's. It went out two years later and they replaced it under warranty. BUT it was a different starter in spit of same O'Reilly's part number.
The original starter and the first O'Reilly's starter, the signal lead and battery lead matched; but on the second starter (with same part number) they were swapped. I went back to them with the warranty replacement one and found a picture on their computer and said THAT'S IT!, but the one they shipped was AGAIN the wrong one. The only way you can tell is by actually looking at the starter.
I finally located one from a Ford dealer a hundred miles away and next day shipped it. I asked him to send me a picture to make sure it was the exact replacement.

The Ford part number is Motorcraft SA858RM.

Thanks for all those tips!

I had heard the starter could be a pain to remove, but just looking at the access to mounting bolts on mine, I wasn't sure why. You're saying it's not so much getting the bolts off as it is getting the starter out?

I'll definitely go for the Motorcraft starter if the AC Delco I ordered doesn't work out. I guess I'm just cheap and didn't want to pay the extra $40 for OEM.

I will definitely make sure to confirm the leads are in the right spots before installing!

 

[Justinwht]

The bolts aren't a problem, its pulling it out. No matter how I twisted and turned it, it wouldn't clear the frame. I can't remember what I did to get it out the second time. I think I had to loosen the two rear engine mounts and jack up engine half an inch. One of the leads I had to use a deep socket.

 

[Justinwht]

but on the second starter (with same part number) they were swapped

One of the leads on the wrong starter was shorting against the frame and blew a fuse when I tried to start engine.

/Edit
In my next post I attached pictures. You can see the terminal on the left side could short against the frame

 

[Justinwht]

I asked him to send me a picture to make sure it was the exact replacement.

Compare the two starters. The one on the right is the original and the first O'Reilly's. The one on the left was the first and second in-warranty replacements they sent.

This is picture from their computer screen that I said THAT'S IT, but it wasn't the one they shipped the second time.

The picture from the Ford house a hundred miles away he sent, holding the starter in his hand.

 

[410Fortune]

Do not buy a REMAN starter!!! NEVER EVER EVER
Disco the battery - cable before working on the starter

The OHV starter WILL COME OUT of the space it is in, you have to rotate it backwards lengthwise and hold your mouth just right....then it will drop out of that space. Its a PITA but you do not have to raise the engine up!!

 

[97Sandbox]

Do not buy a REMAN starter!!! NEVER EVER EVER

Do they just not hold up well over time?