Anyone go with Torch lift kit?

[ahuggins6]

I've been searching many different ways and I CANNOT find any thread on this site concerning the Torch lift kit with manufacturer number ‎689355919023. It's about $117 on Amazon. Includes a pair of 1-3" keys and rear add a leafs. Anyone? Is this just a new product and no one has used it yet? Or is there something bad about them?

 

[RangerX]

A link to the product would be helpful.

 

[ahuggins6]

amazon.com/TORCH-Front-Leveling-1995-2001-Explorer/dp/B08KRMG5J2

 

[410Fortune]

Plenty of torsion twists and add a leaf threads
This kit would have similar results
The name on the kit is just different
Same concept

Adjusting torsion bars for “lift” is similar no matter how it is done whether it’s a new key that re “clocks” the t bars or by just adjusting the bolts/‘using longer bolts.
Basically you are increasing the spring rate up front (stiffer springs) in order to change the ride height for more tire clearance.
This is not really a “lift”’it is just an adjustment in ride height by stiffening front springs in this case, t bars.
You are pushing the front tires down by adding a spacer really. The result is room for larger tires, but at a cost. With less to no down travel at ride height the ride gets really bumpy, with stiffer front springs the ride gets bumpy. Trying to achieve a full 3” of front “lift”’will result in these trucks riding like absolute garbage. A 1.5”
Change in ride height can be acceptable, anything more and we are taking hay wagon stiffness, you will feel every bump.
I would rather install a 2” body lift and do a 1-1.5”’torsion adjustment up front… much better ride and more room for larger tires

The same is true for the rear add a leaf, they generally ride like crap. You are better off with some actual 2” lift leaf springs and or a longer shackle and body lift

 

[Blown]

Speaking from experience, I agree completely agree with the above who has much more experience. Add a leaves are usually harsh riding thicker leaves................... Torsion twist for 1 to 1.5"s, alignment, and extended shackles for the back. You can body lift for larger tires. The method is good and cheaper than new keys and add a leaf.

I was running more streetable tires on my rig, but went back to AT's for where we are moving. I just cranked mine back up 1" with torsion twist and by moving the rear shackle bolt down in the lift shackles.

 

[ahuggins6]

Basically you are increasing the spring rate up front (stiffer springs) in order to change the ride height for more tire clearance.

I have to argue with you here. A spring increases in rate as it compresses. A torsion bar increases in rate as it twists. If you adjust one end, and the other end is free to rotate in response, you're not really increasing the rate. Now, if you had the front of the bar permanently fixed so that it couldn't move (which defeats the purpose of using it for suspension) and you twisted the rear, THAT would be increasing the rate.

So leverage is an issue here. How much leverage do you lose on the bar if the control arms are adjusted down via the twist? I don't see much leverage lost, but there will be some i think.

So anyway, I'm with you on the travel limiting by just twisting the bars. Makes me want to go ahead and get the superlift kit...

 

[410Fortune]

Way to spell it out! Makes sense to me.
Good description crystal clear!

My point is this if you twist the t bars too much and loose too much droop travel then the ride suffers horrendously

 

[ahuggins6]

Certainly understand that. I had a 2005 F150 that I put the leveling blocks on. It had about two inches down travel before it bottomed out. I took them off.

Currently, I'm trying to research a uniball bearing for the upper control arms. I think it's possible to build an extension to the top of the knuckle doing that. I'm not even sure the ball joints in the uppers can be pressed out? I haven't seen it done and haven't seen just the joint for sale yet. This is where I'm getting this idea from. Ford Super Duty Dana 60 If they can build a ball joint to connect superduty knuckles to the housing, why can't I build something like it for an upper control arm. But it'll have to be beefy! We'll see what I come up with.

 

[ahuggins6]

To further clarify the idea:

(Assuming the 4wd knuckles have the same slide-in upper ball joint design... I don't have experience with pulling a 4wd knuckle yet.)

You would have a "cup" that pressed into the upper control arm in place of the ball joint. The uniball bearing would easily press into that cup probably from the bottom with a snap ring to retain the bearing. You'd then have a shaft/rod/bolt piece machined with the original ball joint stud that slides down into the knuckle, but the diameter above the knuckle is large enough to carry the load of two additional inches of ball joint stud length. The diameter necks down to go thru the uniball and has threads on top to tighten a nut which completes your new extended ball joint.

NOW... I know some ball joint companies actuall make extended length studs, but do any of them make them for our knuckles?

 

[ahuggins6]

Apparently, this Uniball bearing stuff is popular.

1" Uniball Joint Kit

Check out the deal on 1" Uniball Joint Kit at RuffStuff Specialties

www.ruffstuffspecialties.com

1" 1.25" 1.5" Bore Uniball Spherical Bearing Ball Fab Kit Chromoly Teflon Liner | eBay

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I just can't figure out what the OD of the cup is.

 

[Turdle]

Certainly understand that. I had a 2005 F150 that I put the leveling blocks on. It had about two inches down travel before it bottomed out. I took them off.

Currently, I'm trying to research a uniball bearing for the upper control arms. I think it's possible to build an extension to the top of the knuckle doing that. I'm not even sure the ball joints in the uppers can be pressed out? I haven't seen it done and haven't seen just the joint for sale yet. This is where I'm getting this idea from. Ford Super Duty Dana 60 If they can build a ball joint to connect superduty knuckles to the housing, why can't I build something like it for an upper control arm. But it'll have to be beefy! We'll see what I come up with.

Extending the knuckle is easy. How will you raise steering tie joint mount?

 

[ahuggins6]

Extending the knuckle is easy. How will you raise steering tie joint mount?

I'm still thinking on the idea of dropping the whole cross member and suspension points by cutting the frame. And I think the coilovers would be best used in this idea. Lot's of development to be done I suppose.

 

[ahuggins6]

I just measured and my univalve cup idea is t going to work with stock uppers. For the 1” bore kits, the OD of the cup is 2.625”.

 

[Turdle]

I'm still thinking on the idea of dropping the whole cross member and suspension points by cutting the frame. And I think the coilovers would be best used in this idea. Lot's of development to be done I suppose.

Well, now I feel like a heel. I was gonna pop in with a picture of a set of trail master knuckle extenders to give to you, but crap, I cannot seem to locate them from last sight memory. I'll keep digging

 

[ahuggins6]

Sounds like me. "I know I've got it, but where is it?"