Regear questions?

[TXExploring]

Hi Y'all,
We have a 92 XLT 4x4 and we recently added a RC 4in lift so we could put on some 15*8 wheels and 33x12.50R15 tires. We are thinking about regearing but don't know much about it and have read some of the post on it, but many are old and missing links. We did a little investigation and found that our Axle is listed as D4 which if I understand correctly is a 3.73 limited slip. I'm thinking we need to go to a D2 4.10 limited slip but don't really know for sure. Any suggestions would be appreciated. The next question is do we need to do both the front and rear Axle and I'm thinking the answer is yes. From what I have seen this is very expensive to have done and wonder if this is something we can do ourselves? If so, does anyone have the steps involved and do, we need any special tools? Thanks in advance for any advice on this subject.

 

[Fix4Dirt]

yes you need to do both at once. if its a 410 you can swap out a used diff, but if youre willing to drop the coin on a reggae id do a 456. and yeah you can DIY btu its tedious and takes alot of tools

 

[RangerX]

Yes, essential that you regear both axles.
The biggest hurdle in regearing is getting to the front axle gears. You need to partially disassemble the whole front end to get to one lock bolt to get the differential out. Back axle is just right-there simple.
Once you have the diffs accessable, it does take some knowledge and skill to swap and set the new gears.

 

[410Fortune]

I would suggest a 4.56 or 4.88 ratio for a gen 1 truck with 33" tires and automatic trans
You should use Ford, Yukon, Nitro or Precision brand gears you can buy complete ring and pinion sets with master install kits
Depending on the truck use now would be the time to think about some sort of traction device like a locker, at least in the rear axle

Setting up the gears you should leave to a pro unless you are a real DIY type, find a REPUTABLE shop that will warranty their work
Parts are anywhere from $1200-2500 and install is typically $500-800 an axle

That is a gorgeous Gen I
PLEASE do us all a favor and ditch those front automatic hubs, they will not live long with 33" tires
Consider some Warn manual locking hubs and conversion kit, another couple hundred bucks

 

[DintDobbs]

@TXExploring Listen to @410Fortune, he does this as a lifestyle.

Also remember that the 1st-gens have REVERSE-ROTATION GEARS in the FRONT ONLY. The rear axles use standard-rotation gears.

I'd strongly recommend leaving this to a professional; most people have neither the means nor the skills to do it correctly themselves the first time. Taking it to a pro is cheaper than bombing an axle and having to do it all over again, with all new hardware.

 

[TXExploring]

yes you need to do both at once. if its a 410 you can swap out a used diff, but if youre willing to drop the coin on a reggae id do a 456. and yeah you can DIY btu its tedious and takes alot of tools

thanks for your input!

 

[TXExploring]

Yes, essential that you regear both axles.
The biggest hurdle in regearing is getting to the front axle gears. You need to partially disassemble the whole front end to get to one lock bolt to get the differential out. Back axle is just right-there simple.
Once you have the diffs accessable, it does take some knowledge and skill to swap and set the new gears.

I would suggest a 4.56 or 4.88 ratio for a gen 1 truck with 33" tires and automatic trans
You should use Ford, Yukon, Nitro or Precision brand gears you can buy complete ring and pinion sets with master install kits
Depending on the truck use now would be the time to think about some sort of traction device like a locker, at least in the rear axle

Setting up the gears you should leave to a pro unless you are a real DIY type, find a REPUTABLE shop that will warranty their work
Parts are anywhere from $1200-2500 and install is typically $500-800 an axle

That is a gorgeous Gen I
PLEASE do us all a favor and ditch those front automatic hubs, they will not live long with 33" tires
Consider some Warn manual locking hubs and conversion kit, another couple hundred bucks

appreciate your input!

 

[TXExploring]

@TXExploring Listen to @410Fortune, he does this as a lifestyle.

Also remember that the 1st-gens have REVERSE-ROTATION GEARS in the FRONT ONLY. The rear axles use standard-rotation gears.

I'd strongly recommend leaving this to a professional; most people have neither the means nor the skills to do it correctly themselves the first time. Taking it to a pro is cheaper than bombing an axle and having to do it all over again, with all new hardware.

Ok thank you very much!

 

[TXExploring]

Thank you all very much really appreciate everyone's advice.

 

[96AWD5.LOL]

Nothing to add in the gearing space. Your truck looks nice. It also looks like that picture was taken around the San Luis pass. I spent many years there fishing. Still fish there a couple times year when I'm in Houston.

 

[TXExploring]

Nothing to add in the gearing space. Your truck looks nice. It also looks like that picture was taken around the San Luis pass. I spent many years there fishing. Still fish there a couple times year when I'm in Houston.

Thanks much appreciated. Your absolutely correct SLP and I also like to go fishing there. Tight lines!!

 

[david_lee]

I just finished installing 4.56 gears. Parts cost for the rear was about $375 or $400 including the gears, master install kit, and crush sleeve eliminator. Add another $250 for some of the tools I didn't already have. Front gears and install kit was about $450. If you plan to do it yourself with no previous experience, take your time and don't be surprised if its more than a one weekend project.

Also, it looks like your front sway bar is mounted incorrectly.

 

[TXExploring]

I just finished installing 4.56 gears. Parts cost for the rear was about $375 or $400 including the gears, master install kit, and crush sleeve eliminator. Add another $250 for some of the tools I didn't already have. Front gears and install kit was about $450. If you plan to do it yourself with no previous experience, take your time and don't be surprised if its more than a one weekend project.

Also, it looks like your front sway bar is mounted incorrectly.

Thanks for the info. Please do tell what is wrong with the sway bar so we can fix.

 

[david_lee]

Thanks for the info. Please do tell what is wrong with the sway bar so we can fix.

In your picture, it appears that your sway bar is angled down.

The proper orientation is for the sway bar to be horizontal, or very close to horizontal.

 

[BKennedy]

Would recommend 4.56 gears if you off road it, and while you're in there consider a rear locker or stronger limited slip. Nitro gear is having a huge clearance on lots of parts. I saw one of their lunchbox lockers in the clearance section for the 31 spline 8.8 open diff and it was around $150. Maybe you could find the gears and rebuild kits there on clearance as well.

https://nitro-gear.com/clearance.html

Your sway bar links do appear to be mounted upside down. The sway bar should be above the axle with the links running down to the axle mounts.

 

[RangerX]

Thanks for the info. Please do tell what is wrong with the sway bar so we can fix.

Post a clearer pic of it and we can see what’s going on with it.

 

[TXExploring]

In your picture, it appears that your sway bar is angled down.

The proper orientation is for the sway bar to be horizontal, or very close to horizontal.

View attachment 444065

View attachment 444066

Thank you for the info we had installed drop brackets for it but maybe we didn't put it back on correctly. We will have to check that out. Appreciate your good eye and letting us know.

 

[TXExploring]

Thank you for the info we had installed drop brackets for it but maybe we didn't put it back on correctly. We will have to check that out. Appreciate your good eye and letting us know.

Thank you for the info we had installed drop brackets for it but maybe we didn't put it back on correctly. We will have to check that out. Appreciate your good eye and letting us know.

I drove by my son's work and took some pictures. I'm thinking maybe we should have the angle pointing up?

 

[BKennedy]

Yes. The ends of the sway bar should be pointed at the bottom of the coils with the links pointed up from the axle, not down like you have it now. See how much angle there is in the sway bar without those drop brackets. Those one-sided brackets tend to flex side to side until they fail. You can get longer, quick release links, I think the TJ links fit. Having the sway bar disconnected while off road makes a huge difference in suspension flex and handling.

 

[TXExploring]

Yes. The ends of the sway bar should be pointed at the bottom of the coils with the links pointed up from the axle, not down like you have it now. See how much angle there is in the sway bar without those drop brackets. Those one-sided brackets tend to flex side to side until they fail. You can get longer, quick release links, I think the TJ links fit. Having the sway bar disconnected while off road makes a huge difference in suspension flex and handling.

Got it! Thanks for the advice!