DIY Explorer 302 Headers

[Turdle]

And a nice flaming river custom steering shaft would help you here

 

[CDW6212R]

And a nice flaming river custom steering shaft would help you here

That's what I was about to mention too. I'm going to rely on an aftermarket shaft to provide a small amount of extra clearance. You basically have to put that together, picking parts from what Flaming River and others sell. Others have done that, it just takes some time to sort out the components and to cut the universal shaft to length etc. Figure on at least $200 for that.

 

[97Sandbox]

And a nice flaming river custom steering shaft would help you here

That's what I was about to mention too. I'm going to rely on an aftermarket shaft to provide a small amount of extra clearance. You basically have to put that together, picking parts from what Flaming River and others sell. Others have done that, it just takes some time to sort out the components and to cut the universal shaft to length etc. Figure on at least $200 for that.

I may do that if I need to. When I fully snug the header flange to the head, there's about 1/4"-3/8" clearance between the shaft and the rubber boot on the u-joint. Not sure if the engine will rock in its mounts more than that. If it does, I may just dent or notch that #5 primary around the shaft. I also may just cut off the rubber so it can't burn, I don't think it's protecting much in it's current state lol.

I was just re-reading the OBX vs. TMH thread that's been going for a while and (aside from noting that the three people who said they ordered TMH in the past 3-15 months still seemingly don't have headers) realized one piece of my challenges. I'm using 1-5/8" OD tubing, while TMH is supposedly 1-1/2". That may not seem like a huge difference, but I'm guessing the tubing used in TMH comes in a tighter bend radius. Smaller tubing and tighter bends would likely give a better chance at avoiding more oblique angle cuts, "pie-cutting," and help with clearance. In hindsight, I should have probably gone 1-1/2" and just massaged the inlets more to fit the openings in the header flanges. Oh well. Maybe my crappy headers will flow better than TMH (doubtful since they still neck down to the factory-style flange).

 

[97Sandbox]

I've also been thinking more about log style manifolds and I think it could work on the driver's side if you ovaled the tube along the #5 and #6 ports then transitioned to a circular cross section around #7 to make the quick 90 deg turn under #8. I still have general concerns about flow and uneven heating in a log manifold, but I'm confident what I described would fit in the space and be easily manufactured by any competent and/or patient DIYer with a welder.

For the passenger's side, I don't see any way to get #3 and #4 directly into a log manifold with the heater box in the way. If you sweep those two primaries up and forward, you're pretty much building the TMH design just without a collector -- only #1 and #2 could go straight into the log. Still, that'd be cheaper and easier to build as you wouldn't need formed collectors, just 2-1/2" tubing for the log.

I'm in no mood to buy another set of ball flanges (or used headers to cut up) or extra tubing, but if anyone wants to try, I've laid the groundwork.

 

[410Fortune]

I often put small spacers to lift the engine just a bit with these v8 and headers just fyi Jon is right!

 

[410Fortune]

You are doing great especially working in the truck what a pita! Battle on

 

[97Sandbox]

You are doing great especially working in the truck what a pita! Battle on

There's so much to work around, I feel like working in the vehicle is a necessity for checking routing and clearances. The jig is a helpful tool when welding, but it doesn't tell me where the steering shaft or dipstick is. I'm doing a lot of back-and-forth between the Mounty and my jig. Hopefully I can get some work done in the daylight this weekend and move my welder outside so I'm not running around so much.

 

[97Sandbox]

Driver's side fully tacked

I'm going to dent the #5 primary for better access to the #6 and #7 spark plugs after welding. Otherwise, it clears the steering shaft and with the PS/AC accessory bracket loose, I can sneak the header in via the wheel well -- no motor mount adjustment needed.

Now to the passengers side. Got a #2 primary routed

I have no clue how the TMH design gets the #3 primary between 1 and 2 without hitting the motor mount bolts (feel free to share a pic of anyone has one). I think I'm just going to run #3 all the way forward so I have a nice straight tube to oval around the bolts.

Not sure if #4 or #3 will get the EGR bung. I'd like to reuse the stock EGR tube if I can find a way, not sure what that will look like yet.

 

[Turdle]

To install the tms you do have to lift that side to squeeze it in there. Your tubing is larger,

 

[vroomzoomboom]

the one thing i see is are you able to get the valve cover off with the header in place? otherwise i bow down to you.

 

[97Sandbox]

the one thing i see is are you able to get the valve cover off with the header in place? otherwise i bow down to you.

Hmmm, I'll give that a solid maybe. Will update next time I change a valve cover gasket haha. #6 definitely hangs over the lip of the cover a bit, but I may still be able to wrestle the cover out. It's pretty dang tight to run #6 and #7 between the engine and steering shaft, but I still think it probably makes the install easier than running outside the steering shaft.

 

[97Sandbox]

Got 1, 2, and 3 routed. I put 3 where TMH put 4 and my 4 will take 3's spot after running all the way to the front behind the alternator bracket. It's going to look dumb, but it's not stupid if it works.

 

[Josh P]

I'll take a set.

 

[Turdle]

Very well done

 

[vroomzoomboom]

they get buried in so much stuff in the engine bay you will neve notice what they look like.

 

[C420sailor]

My penis can only get SO erect

Can’t wait to see them welded up

 

[97Sandbox]

I think I have a way to route #4 that's better, but will require pulling the heater box. Is it just held in by the one bolt and two nuts in the bay then one nut under the dash?

 

[97Sandbox]

Now we got some room!

Last primary, just gotta connect A to B

 

[97Sandbox]

Everything is routed. There's one area I need to dent for bolt clearance and I have to cut the hole for the EGR bung. Looks like I'll be able to use the factory EGR tube with my updated #4 routing.

Now to cut some tacks, weld it all together, and pray it doesn't shift around too much in the process. I'll also be making merge spikes before I finish weld the collectors.

 

[Turdle]

Applause!