OBX Header fitment

[cannotreg]

I'm posting this in the modified Explorer section even though this will all be installed in my Ranger. I'm building a replacement engine for the 5.0 that I installed in 2002 since it has over 200k miles and I want more performance. It's a basic 306 with TFS TW 170 aluminum heads with a tubular GT40 intake (lower ported). I have 3 different sets of headers to choose from, but I really want to use the OBX for their performance.

One of the issues is the coupler is hitting the head itself:

Also on the drivers side, the upper pipe hits the valve cover:

The passenger side has clearance:

The intake with a small spacer:

Has anyone else had these issues with the OBX or Torque Monster headers?

I'm sure just a little grinding should fix the problem...

 

[delexploder]

I've seen a few guys here with those issues , what are the other ones you have in the picture , the non stock set?

 

[Highflow50]

I had some issues but nothing like that. If it was not raining cats and dogs I'd take a few pictures of my setup for you.

 

[cannotreg]

I've seen a few guys here with those issues , what are the other ones you have in the picture , the non stock set?

Those are the FRPP Explorer headers that I've had since 2002...

 

[shucker1]

During my test Mock-up of my 331 with THM manifolds I have a clearance issue on the LB
side where the outlet collector flange is hitting the LB Head.

I was actually thinking about drawing out and milling out a 1\16" Thick SST spacer to push the header away from the block. I would need gaskets on both sides of the spacer.

Just the time involved on a weekend or after work on the mill to run the spacer out.

 

[Accarguy]

Alright I have have to ask where did you get these headers from?

 

[vroomzoomboom]

on my stroker, it also has tfs heads, but i think street heat (cant say for sure however). i had to notch the drivers side for the coupler to clear (these were tmh headers, same thing). member dono, had the same problem as you. he also had to shave the head (motor then i had to) as well as the passengers side is so tight to the valve cover, i can say it wouldnt be fun for him to pull it with the header on (but he has tfs covers). for the passengers side, you might end up dimpling the header slightly so they fit. drivers side, you will have to do a little head shaving.

 

[colintrax]

If this was my truck, I'd grind the coupler down to fit, and put a little dent in the pipe.

 

[cannotreg]

Alright I have have to ask where did you get these headers from?

The FRPP I bought new in 2002 and the OBX I purchased from a member on this site.

 

[cannotreg]

If this was my truck, I'd grind the coupler down to fit, and put a little dent in the pipe.

I'll grind the coupler down, but I wont dent the pipe, I'll grind some off of the aluminum valve cover and hopefully that will work. Otherwise I'll use the stock Explorer valve covers with the oil fill shield removed.

 

[Flash]

I'll grind the coupler down, but I wont dent the pipe, I'll grind some off of the aluminum valve cover and hopefully that will work. Otherwise I'll use the stock Explorer valve covers with the oil fill shield removed.

Can the pipe be heated then pulled away from the valve cover?

 

[colintrax]

I'll grind the coupler down, but I wont dent the pipe, I'll grind some off of the aluminum valve cover and hopefully that will work. Otherwise I'll use the stock Explorer valve covers with the oil fill shield removed.

Don't stress about putting a dent in the pipe, dyno after dyno has shown that a small dent increases power more often than not. It'd quick, easy, and makes mo power

 

[Turdle]

I would mark a good reference , take a little material from the head, slowly, then refit. It could be that interference causing the top to hit the valve cover.

Grinding the gasket flange will cause issues. you might take a little from this area also, but not past the gasket itself.