PROJECT - Make 5R55E hold decent power (400-450 HP / Torque)

There are heat sink trans coolers, they are long, round, and expensive. Moving the one catalytic converter out from under the trans pan would help a good bit.

Be easy on the shifts until you are comfortable that you have done all that you can with the transmission. Getting the VB working as well as possible, and keeping great fluid cool, that should be worth a good 20% more torque capacity.

Praying helps also,

On a side note, what is a good fluid temp? From fluid graphs i've seen, isn't it anywhere between 150 to 180F, anything over that you start seeing rapid fluid decomp?

I'd say those temps are good. It would be hard to get it a lot cooler, I've heard of 120 before. I would call 180 degrees high.

Found the graph I was talking about. I knew I saw it somewhere, it was on BrooklynBay's list of useful information.

Dead Link Removed

what about having Jon powdercoat the y-pipe, or maybe even ceramic coat it? I would think it would last a lot longer that way.

my y pipe is wrapped, if it rusts I will replace it with a spare, so far so good even with CO DOT putting liquid salt on the roads every snow flurry

I have also built simple metal heat guards to protect the shift solenoids in addition to the factory pieces

my trans temp in the pan rarely sees 155 degrees and peaks at 165
I have a B&M RV trans cooler in series with a aluminum 2 core radiator and stock driven fan

I drain the fluid 2 times a year and a new filter every year (pan drop)
I can also drain my converter (v8) so the fluid stays red

Trans should last a long time like this, but as noted above the 5r55e is limited by the actual strength and size of internal components

Ditto, that is the same main weak link of the old A4LD.

I would like to run 185 or below. I plan on adding the gauge first so I can see how is, then the pan....I'll add the new fan cooler after - along with the remote filter.

The only thing that sucks is all this is a good bit of money. I'm taking a gamble by trying to make this one hold up. I may have to swap in the long run but we'll see how it goes.

I checked the fluid the other day and I’m thinking it needs to be changed - the truck is parked. I’ll do the band adjustment again when I do the pan. By the way, I changed fluid around 10,000 miles back so it’s not extremely old. Also, I’m running Mobile 1 syn.

I need to see what kind of power I’m actually making so it can be documented. I’m pretty sure it’s 300 +

Hey 410 - CDW gave me an idea in another thread. I'll be messing with the tune and reducing the torque on shifts. This should help with the weaker inside parts and I don't think it's going to hurt me extremely bad with the performance.

The question I have is when is the breaking point? If I know this I can back down the torque by a certain % to give some life to the trans. I have no idea so I just have to guess right now and do everything possible to keep the temps down.

As far as the heat sinks - this sort relates to an idea I had. I was thinking about running some tubing from the front to blow on the tranny. (sort of like nascar does to the brakes) I just want to see what the actual temps are after a good run before I go doing all this sort of thing. I'm sure if it actually works, someone has already done it.

I have about 9k on my rebuild, when do you guys sugest a band adjustment? Should I wait till I change the fluid at 10k and just do it all at once?

That seems like a good temp to stay at, once I get some extra change here I wouldn't mind installing one in my external filter.

Jakee, make sure you post where you purchase these products for, I have a fresh rebuild thats looking for a revamp....

Are there any boost controllers that can vary with rpm? I know that that is a loaded question, as in expensive. I know that they exist, but can any of them work easily with our engines? I had thought of those long ago, but to adjust boost faster than the mechanical style.

CDW - Yes, I'm pretty sure most electronic boost controllers can do this. Actually, the boost doesn't stay steady on shifts. It will actually reduce naturally. I'm not sure how far you're wanting the boost to drop. Next time I do a run I'll pay attention and see how far it actaully drops on a shift. It may be dropping after the shift and that's what I'm seeing, and that won't help.

You know what I had in mind. If one of those could be added feasibly, you could cut the power by enough before a shift to help the bands survive much longer. That might be an alternative to a different transmission. Just a thought, the details usually get in the way.

I have not reached the point where you are yet. For myself my only thought is how accurate are the wastegates that are used? Can one be had to run at 8/9psi and never go too high?

CDW6212R said:

You know what I had in mind. If one of those could be added feasibly, you could cut the power by enough before a shift to help the bands survive much longer. That might be an alternative to a different transmission. Just a thought, the details usually get in the way.

I have not reached the point where you are yet. For myself my only thought is how accurate are the wastegates that are used? Can one be had to run at 8/9psi and never go too high?

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Yes, the spring is accurate. You will not go higher than the spring unless the hose pops off. That is the main thing with messing with the wastegate. Make sure you have good line on it and make sure the line won't pop off. I have hose clamps holding mine on with high temp hose. I also have a turbo XS boost controller so that is why I’m up to 9LBS of boost on a 6 LB spring.


By the way, I'll be updating the first post with the parts I buy and things I do to this transmission.

I did a VB kit, added the Sonnax parts(two plus an o-ring kit), replaced the EPC solenoid, 1/2 shift, TC shift, and the careful band adjustment. Do the bands often enough to know that they aren't changing between the service work. Jake might need to do the band work every 5-10k to start with. My usage is constant low speed shifting, so my worry is accelerated wear. Mail delivery shortens my service intervals.

The tranny pan is in.

That is one deep pan.

So the 5r55e has the same transmission pan bolt pattern as the 4R70W? An is considered an AODE transmission?

4R55E, 5R55E, 4R44E, A4LD - (says it fit's all of these) It holds three more quarts than stock.

You would be surprised how beefy this thing is. It's super strong and probably weighs 5 pounds are more.

I guess I can say I have a bullet proof tranny pan now?

Jake, I'm sorry man, I don't know what link I clicked on but I could not find a pan that stated it would fit the 5r55e, I was being dumb or something. I see where ya got the pan from now. I just did a search for PML and got the yourcovers site and found the pan ya got, sorry once more about that.

I didn't know there was a difference in filters between the 2wd and 4wd, guess the 2wd filter is shallower?

The 4X4 looks the same except it has a big tube like pc on the bottom to get to the oil.