How to: 1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

[bigdo182]

engine codes

dale, i got my engine out and the new one in but have some troubles,first i got a 301 and 304 engine miss code,installed new plugs and wires,changed coil pack,did not remove codes, i sprayed stater fluid around intakes and vac lines they seem ok,then the tensioner went nuts when the ac kicked on it hummed and banged,i changed tensioner and all is ok but now i have a knock sensor code that i believe was caused by the tensioner, in addition i now have a code for a coolant sensor.engine has 54 000 miles on it and it has great compression,runs great and you can not hear a miss at any speed,only thing it idles a bit bad when cold for about a minute.fuel pressure seems good and i changed the fuel filter.i think i will change the crank sensor,clean map sensor and cam sensor and coolant sensor.im kind of lost on this and would appreciate any advice you can give me,thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

Coolant temperature sensor

I suggest that you focus on clearing the engine coolant temperature sensor failure first. The PCM needs the engine coolant temperature to adjust the Air/Fuel ratio correctly in open loop. It is especially important in cold weather when increased richness is required. Once the PCM switches to closed loop (after the O2 sensors are warm) the PCM can probably compensate by using the O2 sensor outputs. Make sure the wire is not broken and the connector is on tight.

 

[bigdo182]

ok i will try that tomorrow,meanwhile the check engine light went out on its own and i scanned engine again and 1 and 4 missfire are gone,but i have the knock sensor ,coolant sensor,i will get on it tomorrow,thanks dale

 

[bigdo182]

success

dale,just a note to let you know explorer is running great,changed the coolant sensor and when i was in there found the knock sensor was not plugged in , i also replaced the idle control valve with one i had ,check engine light is out and it purrs like a kitten at idle and all speeds,thks very much for your help.

 

[2000StreetRod]

Congratulations!

I hope your Explorer provides many years of trouble free service.

 

[scdix50]

Thanks to 2000StreetRod and others for timing chain replace.

I want to say thanks to everyone whom has taken an interest in this forum. I finished my full timing chain replace yesterday. I have a 00 XLT SOHC 4.0L with 160,111 miles. All the chain guides were well worn, the only breakage was the tensioner for the balance shaft. All I found was the plastic ends & leaf spring. Timing for the balance shaft was off. I did front and rear crankshaft seals, sparkplug wires, powersteering pump w/all new hoses, replaced some heater hoses and lower radiator hose. I made one of the 11mm bolt tools, I call it the K2RD tool. I can in under $ 800.00 for parts, materials, shipping costs and local taxes. I do not count the cost of new tools against the job. By the way, I'LL be 61 May 20. Thanks again.

 

[Johnny Glenn]

Hello Dale -- You've been recently helping me w/ a timing chain diagnosis and repair process. I see you have extensive helpful threads on the 2nd gen -- and I imagine most things are closely related w/ the 3rd gen but do you have or know of any threads depicting 3rd gen engine removal / and is getting to the timing chains the same between the two models? Thanks

 

[2000StreetRod]

3rd gen engine removal

Hello Dale -- You've been recently helping me w/ a timing chain diagnosis and repair process. I see you have extensive helpful threads on the 2nd gen -- and I imagine most things are closely related w/ the 3rd gen but do you have or know of any threads depicting 3rd gen engine removal / and is getting to the timing chains the same between the two models? Thanks

I don't recall seeing any 3rd generation SOHC V6 step-by-step removal procedures but I don't pay much attention to that subforum. I believe that you have a one piece intake manifold so if it has to be removed to remove the valve covers it will be easier than on the 2nd generation.

You might search for "valve cover removal" or "intake manifold gasket replacement" or something similar.

 

[glockman]

Actually, I was able to remove the power steering pump without removing the pulley. However, I wasn't able to reinstall the pump with the pulley. It was really tough to loosen the pulley bolts with nothing to hold the pump in place. That's why I say in the procedure to remove the pulley.

I was able to remove the power steering pump and reservoir as a unit still attached to the mounting bracket for the A/C compressor. I did have to drain the fluid but it needed to be changed anyway. This method was very easy. There is a high pressure line behind the pulley that needs to be removed and then remove the line on the bottom of the reservoir. Hope this helps someone.

 

[tomj1102]

Rough running after engine change

Hi this is a great thread. I was hoping someone here could give me some advice as to where to look next. The story goes had chain rattle, removed engine fitted s/hand engine with no rattle. I fitted all my original wiring injectors etc to s/hand block. Started easly but rough high and low rpm. It also has a very bad dead spot. I rechecked inlet gaskets, all great. If I disconnect the egr vale it gets better but not right. I have unplugged the maf and nothing changes, how ever I tested the maf with a scanner and it seems to be fine so I am now very confused. I have also got 0171 & 0174 fault codes. Please can someone shed any light on this.
Thanks

 

[03lances]

So I had to sign up just to thank you for the detailed and thorough writeup you've done here. I do alot of mechanic work and this is the first timing chain ive done on an explorer before. I have followed your engine removal guide to the letter (had the laptop sitting in the shop and went step by step). Best guide I have ever used by far. Everything has went smooth thus far. Had a little trouble with the upper starter bolt and those darn upper trans bolts but I was able to get to the 4 upper bolts through the wheel wells using a ratchet wrench with only minor injuries lol.

I still have the engine in at this point all I have to do is unbolt the engine mounts and yank it out the crane is attached and ready to go. The next writup of yours I will be using is the timing chain guide. I will be changing the front and back cassettes. The ford timing tool kit arrived today along with the gaskets. The cassettes will be here early next week. I was exceptionally excited to see the heads in fact do not have to be pulled to change that rear chain which is stated must be done in another writeup I found (not on this site).

Thanks again for the hard work and detail you put into this guide to help people like myself who will be a diy guy to the end.

 

[scdix50]

One added note. Replace the harmonic balancer if you have not already done so. It will save you some extra work down the road. I did not change mine, 6 mos later I had to.

 

[derek_redneck91]

My engine has 255K on it and is now rattling like something farce. It has been getting worse for the last 2 months. I highly suspect timing chain issues in both the front and rear of the engine so I have been babying the engine as best as I can. I plan on buying a used motor from a scrap yard and swapping it. I have removed a few engines from vehicles before but that was for scrapping the vehicle. What I would like to know is what I have to do with the new engine so that it installs to the transmission without any issues. Do I have to mark anything on the flywheel and spacer plate or what? This is definitely my last resort option but hell for the money I'm gonna spend to replace all the timing chain parts i might as well throw a new engine into it. I can get a newer engine for about 800. I have already upgraded my exhaust and I plan on doing plugs and wires on the new engine, and maybe putting in a CAI. Trying to get the most fuel mileage as I can. Any tips and suggesitons are muchly appreciated

 

[2000StreetRod]

engine with flexplate?

If your replacement engine comes with a good flexplate then you probably should install it as attached to maintain balance. If the replacement engine has no flexplate then don't worry about balance. A 2002 or later long block should have all of the timing chain related improvements. I suspect that an Amsoil low restriction dropin replacement air filter will provide better fuel economy than a cone filter then pulls air from the engine compartment but can't prove it yet.

 

[derek_redneck91]

Will the later engines (02 and up) still use the same engine mounts, PCM connection and PCM? If so then excellent I'll try and look for one. I have tracked down the exact same motor as mine and it has half the mileage so I'm optimistic. I'm sure not every engine out there fails thanks to the timing parts it just happens to be my luck that the vehicle I buy is a damned lemon. I plan on putting new tensioners into it when I buy the new engine. Oh and is there any specific positioning of the flywheel that I should be concerned about or is it ok as long as I'm at TDC

 

[2000StreetRod]

wrecked vehicle?

For the SOHC V6 Explorers I suspect the most common reasons a vehicle ends up in a salvage yard are: wrecked, bad timing chains, bad 5R55E or later transmission. I would look for an engine out of a wreck. For which ever year engine you purchase you'll have to make it look like your 1999 version. You use your current engine wiring harness, intake manifolds and peripherals (water pump, alternator, power steering pump, A/C compressor, exhaust manifolds, EGR tube, etc.) unless the replacement engine has identical ones. That's why I said purchase a long block (engine block with internals plus heads). One forum member experienced timing chain failure as early as 40,000 miles. You don't need to worry about crankshaft position of the replacement engine.

 

[derek_redneck91]

Yeah most of the vehicles I have seen at the wreckers I go to are usually because of car accidents. The engine I am looking at is from a 99 explorer sport 4x4 engine vin code E. Which is the exact same vehicle as mine. Everything on this engine should be the same but I will obviously make sure. Thanks for the help threads you have posted and the tips you have given me. I'm just doing some research to make sure I know what I'm getting myself into if I'm able to swap my motor this summer along with another bunch of musts such as add-a-leafs exhaust tips, cai and hopefully some body work. If I can do it I'll be sure to add any commens to your steps and take picutres along the way.

 

[LIFTEDXPLODER96]

this will be very useful!

 

[03lances]

Just thought I would post back. Finshed the engine in that 97 two months ago. The guy I did the work for is very very happy with it the car just runs awesome!!! Not only that I have done another since then an '02 for my bro in law. Pulled out a bad engine and he bought a wrecked explorer with a good engine. We pulled the good engine and stripped it down to check heads pistons etc. put all new gaskets in and slapped it in and it also runs flawless. Thanks again.

 

[derek_redneck91]

Ok. So I'm going to get the new engine some time this week and attempt to do the swap next week while I still have a week off. I just want to make sure I have all the details of the engine removal process right.
1) If the new engine comes with a good flexplate, use it. If not, the one from the old engine should work because they are independantly balanced.
2) I don't have to worry about the new engine being at tdc when I install it.
Now, when I'm installing the new motor I just follow the steps backwards obviously. Does anyone have some tips on seating the engine to the tranny properly? I just want this thing to work right once I'm done!