How to: 1 SOHC V6 Engine Removal Procedure

[lsa0628]

Great write-up! I have a 2004 4wd with 110K miles. The vehicle overheated and lost compression on both sides. All the signs of blown head gasgets. I dont know the extent of any other damage yet until I get it apart. I read all the discussion on the plastic guides on the pre-2002 engines. Seems they improved the design on the 2002+ motors but I am thinking I should just replace them anyways since I will have the motor out. Anyone know how far the 2002+ ones go? Assuming regular oil changes? Once out I will post a pic of the condition.
Anyone have a link to torque specs once I reassemble?
Also, a good link to buying parts online?
Thanks,
Lorin

 

[2000StreetRod]

removing the heads

It is not necessary to pull the engine to remove the heads. Is there any variation in the compression between cylinders? Do you know the reason the engine overheated?

 

[rb142]

It is not necessary to pull the engine to remove the heads. Is there any variation in the compression between cylinders? Do you know the reason the engine overheated?

Maybe not, but it does make things easier. (If you are going that far in, it isn't much more work to get the engine out.) More importantly, it allows one to change out all of the timing hardware, which I would say would be a good idea in this instance.

OP: Check out 2kSR's many threads on the subject for torque specs, part numbers, and all the info you need for this job. You're going to need some special tools. And definitely resolve the cause of the original overheating problem first.

 

[Sedition]

Yank the heads first IMO

I would Pull the heads off first and check them for distortion. Pulling the engine after the heads are off is piss easy.

Because you have lost compression in both sides, when you get the heads off you want to check the mating surface for flatness (the tolerance is .003" with MLS head gaskets on a v6 usually). Also check that the ports are not warped and the valves are sealing correctly.

Also, if you have antifreeze in the combustion chambers you may also have a cracked ring or two.

If there isn't water leaking onto the floor then the Thermostat is usually the culprit.

Good Luck, Sir...:australia

 

[yankeesfan25]

Hey I am new here. Just happened to come across this thread. Doing an engine swap, with a remanufactured engine. Was wondering the best way to attack those torque converter bolts? 1/4" drive ratchet? Removing motor mount? Mine is a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD 4.0L. Thanks!

 

[jon_s_brady]

Done this a few times on a 2005...I'd recommend removing the radiator and then slide the engine out with the torque converter attached. It's much easier to remove the nuts once it's out. Putting it back in...well, it's a case of very carefully engaging the nuts on the threads by hand. Then if you have an air spanner it can do them up most of the way. Then you just need to torque them a small amount with the socket wrench/ torque wrench.

 

[mrb09c]

22 Torque converter/flexplate disconnect

Slowly rotate the engine clockwise using the crankshaft harmonic balancer retaining bolt (19mm) until a torque converter stud/flexplate nut (14mm) is visible thru the removed starter motor opening.

For clarification, when rotating the crankshaft clockwise, is this with respect to looking at the front of the engine? And is this always the direction to rotate this engine?

 

[Drewmcg]

Oh another top tip
Take the dirt plate off before refiiting the engine and do the following. Note which holes are for the locating dowels. Then take a blunt chisel or solid shaft flat screwdriver and put a dink on either side of the hole to close the hole slightly so it will grab the dowel. Then refit the dirtplate in the knowledge that whilst trying to line up the engine and tranny it wont keep falling out of position.

I wish I understood this instruction better--which I believe to be a good tip, but don't really understand. Is janolsson talking about "blunting" the actual dowel, or the holes that the dowels go into (in the block)? My dowels have stayed on the block on both 4.0 SOHC engine pulls I've done. I just check to make sure there's at least 10mm protrusion and leave 'em in the block. I used masking tape to tape the plate against the block so it wouldn't fall off on reinstall--but this does not work very well.

 

[Drewmcg]

For clarification, when rotating the crankshaft clockwise, is this with respect to looking at the front of the engine? And is this always the direction to rotate this engine?

Yes. However, when installing the special OTC tool on the crankshaft (with damper removed), you can rotate counterclockwise a couple of inches to rest the stop against the lower left block corner near where the timing cover bolts on, to correctly position the tool/TDC.

 

[Drewmcg]

Done this a few times on a 2005...I'd recommend removing the radiator and then slide the engine out with the torque converter attached. It's much easier to remove the nuts once it's out. Putting it back in...well, it's a case of very carefully engaging the nuts on the threads by hand. Then if you have an air spanner it can do them up most of the way. Then you just need to torque them a small amount with the socket wrench/ torque wrench.

While removing the radiator is a pain in the butt (at least on 3rd gens), I can confirm that I sure beat the heck our of the inside surface of my new replacement radiator when I installed it before re-installing the engine! The depth between the windshield cowling (?) and the front of the engine compartment is hair tight compared with the engine depth, especially if you set your pull chain to angle the front of the engine higher a bit to aid with disengagement/re-engagement with transmission.

So removing the radiator b/4 removing the 4.0 SOHC engine removal may save the radiator twice--upon removal and upon re-installation of the engine. If you leave the radiator in, it probably makes sense to remove the dampener before removal. But that dampener is far easier to remove with the engine out of the truck--so you may as well remove the radiator, instead.

However, I did not find it that hard to unbolt the TC through the starter hole b/4 hoisting the engine, and would worry about pump/stator damage by pulling them together....

 

[Drewmcg]

Hey I am new here. Just happened to come across this thread. Doing an engine swap, with a remanufactured engine. Was wondering the best way to attack those torque converter bolts? 1/4" drive ratchet? Removing motor mount? Mine is a 2006 Ford Explorer XLT 4WD 4.0L. Thanks!

For those tackling the job in the future, you can get the TC nuts off the bolts with a long 3/8 ratchet set of extensions from in front of the bumper/grill. This may be the preferred way on a 4x4 (did this once). It helps to have a good spot flashlight.

On RWD Explorers, there's enough room to remove the TC nuts working under the car with a short 3/8 ratchet extension.

 

[Drewmcg]

Yank the heads first IMO

I would Pull the heads off first and check them for distortion. Pulling the engine after the heads are off is piss easy.

Because you have lost compression in both sides, when you get the heads off you want to check the mating surface for flatness (the tolerance is .003" with MLS head gaskets on a v6 usually). Also check that the ports are not warped and the valves are sealing correctly.

Also, if you have antifreeze in the combustion chambers you may also have a cracked ring or two.

If there isn't water leaking onto the floor then the Thermostat is usually the culprit.

Good Luck, Sir...:australia

Wish I'd seen this suggestion before pulling my first 4.0 SOHC--when I knew beforehand I'd be sending the heads to the machine shop--though getting that right head off in the truck looks like it might be a bit dicey....

 

[zombienerd]

I'll be doing this job next week, and I am VERY thankful for this post.

Our '04 Sport Trac was in a rollover, and I was able to find a near-mint '02 with a bad timing chain for only $250. The '04's motor is still good, so into the '02 it goes!

 

[donalds]

Thanks I used this post I even printed it out

 

[donalds]

Thought I would show the candy

 

[donalds]

After install

 

[donalds]

and I reinstalled the pre oiler to

 

[2000StreetRod]

Nice installation! Are you located in Stem, NC?

 

[donalds]

Yep we don't even have a red light just a flashing one lol

 

[donalds]

The new engine has 952 miles having problems with my fuel pump I think
I posted a thread no answers yet but I'm sure ill get it

Is my fuel pump bad 1999 ford explorer shoc 4.0