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1354 swap

bigred4x4

Off-road enthusiast
Elite Explorer
Joined
October 6, 2008
Messages
753
Reaction score
84
Location
Va
City, State
chesapeake virginia
Year, Model & Trim Level
'96 xlt 4x4
OK so my t case (4405) over the years has had some issues it's grinded a few times when shifting to low range its now leaking and has play at the out put shaft, it flashes 4wd lights sometimes even though I override it with the BWM, it's jumped out of low range before and there is a small crack that's being filled in with JB weld which works but I'm afraid of I remove the drain plug it will crack again and start leaking, also I noticed that in 4hi and auto the power slips or doesn't engage all the way or at least not right away, it still works for now despite its quirks but sooner or later it's going to have to be replaced given the cost of rebuild I was thinking about going with a 1354m case in its place I already have the double cardan front drive shaft and my speed sensor is in the transfer case in my 96 so it should be a direct bolt-on but I wanted to go with a manual T case and I can't find a whole lot of information online on how to do it and which shift linkage to use, advance adapters seems to no longer make a kit and the shifter that's available that I've been able to find is the one where you have to crawl underneath the truck to switch the modes which I would much prefer to have a lever in side the cab. I know I can find an electronic shift 1354 then converted to manual as the manual case might be difficult to find does anybody have any pointers ideas? Or should I bite the bullet and tear apart the 4405 in the future and try to rebuild it but if that's the case I have looked at the cost of buying all the parts that I would want to replace during a rebuild and it gets very pricey pretty quick. Although I do like the features of the 4405 when it works correctly for my uses I would rather have just a simple mechanical engagement and not have to worry about all the electronic stuff and I never liked the idea of having a clutch being the only thing that drives the front axle.

All in all though because I installed the front axle disconnect mod so I can control it manually with a switch having to crawl under the truck to switch it into 4 wheel drive and then use the switch in the cab to control the front axle would be not so bad (I don't see any power to the front with open diff and passenger side axle disconnected seems like it would be like switching between 4wd and 2wd with that switch) unless I wanted to go into low range then I would have to crawl out again and back under the truck not a huge deal it definitely makes the process a lot easier and cheaper but I think it would be kind of a pain.

So what do you think?
Any other pointers?
 



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OK so my t case (4405) over the years has had some issues it's grinded a few times when shifting to low range its now leaking and has play at the out put shaft, it flashes 4wd lights sometimes even though I override it with the BWM, it's jumped out of low range before and there is a small crack that's being filled in with JB weld which works but I'm afraid of I remove the drain plug it will crack again and start leaking, also I noticed that in 4hi and auto the power slips or doesn't engage all the way or at least not right away, it still works for now despite its quirks but sooner or later it's going to have to be replaced given the cost of rebuild I was thinking about going with a 1354m case in its place I already have the double cardan front drive shaft and my speed sensor is in the transfer case in my 96 so it should be a direct bolt-on but I wanted to go with a manual T case and I can't find a whole lot of information online on how to do it and which shift linkage to use, advance adapters seems to no longer make a kit and the shifter that's available that I've been able to find is the one where you have to crawl underneath the truck to switch the modes which I would much prefer to have a lever in side the cab. I know I can find an electronic shift 1354 then converted to manual as the manual case might be difficult to find does anybody have any pointers ideas? Or should I bite the bullet and tear apart the 4405 in the future and try to rebuild it but if that's the case I have looked at the cost of buying all the parts that I would want to replace during a rebuild and it gets very pricey pretty quick. Although I do like the features of the 4405 when it works correctly for my uses I would rather have just a simple mechanical engagement and not have to worry about all the electronic stuff and I never liked the idea of having a clutch being the only thing that drives the front axle.

All in all though because I installed the front axle disconnect mod so I can control it manually with a switch having to crawl under the truck to switch it into 4 wheel drive and then use the switch in the cab to control the front axle would be not so bad (I don't see any power to the front with open diff and passenger side axle disconnected seems like it would be like switching between 4wd and 2wd with that switch) unless I wanted to go into low range then I would have to crawl out again and back under the truck not a huge deal it definitely makes the process a lot easier and cheaper but I think it would be kind of a pain.

So what do you think?
Any other pointers?
Probably go with the manual t case and swap in a 97 front axle and toss the vacuum engagement on your current axle. I'm new to my 95 and still figuring out the blinking lights before I do a hot 5A engagement wire but if it doesn't work out I'm going manual 1354 with a 97 axle!! Love they built 400k a year of these so the junkyards full of parts for penny's!
 












It is possible to do a 1354E swap using the electronics in the truck now. I followed AL's guide here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4405-to-1354-e-conversion.316510/
Unfortunately the pics are now blocked, they were very helpful!
I also did this to a sport and used a newer (2001) sport GEM and control module and had no issues with the swap. The 4 door GEM will need to be modified as outlined in the thread.
 






The funnest part of the 1354 manual swap is having a 3" body lift and a full length console. I put one in my buddies 01 4dr a few months back. We had to extend it and bend it to clear the console and work right.
 






I have both a 3 inch body lift and the full length console haha. The Ebay link I posted for that shifter seems to be by far the easiest way to do it maybe I could start with that and then if that just becomes unacceptable then I can work on getting one in the cab in the future. Hey boomin didn't you buy the truck that someone did the swap on on here and had the shift adapter installed? That one seems to be the easiest one to install in the cab. But I wonder if it came with enough cable for a body lift, also it doesn't seem to be available anymore. Kind of sucks as these trucks get older what little aftermarket support they had is fading away.
 






I know I can find a 1354e all day but if I wanted to locate a 1354 M with the linkage and shifter what years/ vehicles should I be looking for in the junkyard.
 






Yeah I bought a sport with the manual shift conversion on the 1354E but sold the cable setup long time ago. To be honest I still have the 1354E laying around the shop.

91+ explorer or ranger is where you need to look.
 






It is possible to do a 1354E swap using the electronics in the truck now. I followed AL's guide here:
http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/index.php?threads/4405-to-1354-e-conversion.316510/
Unfortunately the pics are now blocked, they were very helpful!
I also did this to a sport and used a newer (2001) sport GEM and control module and had no issues with the swap. The 4 door GEM will need to be modified as outlined in the thread.

Try that thread again, tell me if the pictures are fixed.
 






I think I'll go with the 1354 e put that $68 shifter on it to minimize down time I could have all that done in a couple hours, then I could figure something out for the future the electronic swap doesn't seem so bad until you start getting into the door switches and rear window defrost can the electronic 1354 accept the stock manual shift lever? Also is there any problems with the 1354 i should look out for when selecting one.
 






@Turdle the pictures still don't seem to work.
 






Probably go with the manual t case and swap in a 97 front axle and toss the vacuum engagement on your current axle. I'm new to my 95 and still figuring out the blinking lights before I do a hot 5A engagement wire but if it doesn't work out I'm going manual 1354 with a 97 axle!! Love they built 400k a year of these so the junkyards full of parts for penny's!

The solenoids are controlled by switching grounds they get a constant supply of voltage I would look into doing the manual control mod it's easy,cheap, and is nice to have helps you further override the gem and if you have a auto locker then you could use your switch to kinda control the front diff similar to a selectable locker plus it creates less drag and wear and tear on the front diff with keeping the disconnect. That's why I prefer to keep it as some people swap these in to gain these features.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ol-over-95-96-vacuum-disco-front-axles.88718/
 






The solenoids are controlled by switching grounds they get a constant supply of voltage I would look into doing the manual control mod it's easy,cheap, and is nice to have helps you further override the gem and if you have a auto locker then you could use your switch to kinda control the front diff similar to a selectable locker plus it creates less drag and wear and tear on the front diff with keeping the disconnect. That's why I prefer to keep it as some people swap these in to gain these features.

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums...ol-over-95-96-vacuum-disco-front-axles.88718/
That's why I joined this group. Thanks for the input!
 






try behemoth drivetrain he makes a kit to shift electric to manual in the cab. I have an electric i'm going to see if you machine the shift hole that is roughed in and put all the manual shift in and plug hole out the rear.
roscoe
 






try behemoth drivetrain he makes a kit to shift electric to manual in the cab. I have an electric i'm going to see if you machine the shift hole that is roughed in and put all the manual shift in and plug hole out the rear.
roscoe

I checked them out they have some cool stuff I like the granny box lol and prices aren't too bad but I think I'd have a hard time with getting that shifter (twin stick)to work/fit . It also requires some kinda heavy modifications to the tcase for it to work and it doesn't seem to come with the actual shifter or boot, pretty much just the linkage. Good site though for the more extreme rigs I'm sure some EF members will find some goodies on there.
 






I wish the shifster 2 was still available. So far that seems like the best/easiest option by a long shot.
 






I think the best/easiest option is to find a manual case. Sure, they aren't as common as the elecs, but they are out there.
 






Yea your right ultimately I would like the stock style shifter over even the shifster 2 but i know going that route is going to be some what of a doozy finding the parts and modify the set up to work with my rig. I should start looking now instead of waiting for the 4405 to keel over.
 






Here's a pic of a manual shift I put in an 01 with full length console. We ended up extending it 4" and bending it toward the drivers side to get it to clear the console. He also has a 3" body lift which made it extra fun.

2017052895144850.jpg
 



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Looks good though, and all that came from the donor truck? Extending and bending really isn't all that big a deal how did you extend it ?
 






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