- Joined
- October 6, 2008
- Messages
- 753
- Reaction score
- 84
- Location
- Va
- City, State
- chesapeake virginia
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- '96 xlt 4x4
OK so my t case (4405) over the years has had some issues it's grinded a few times when shifting to low range its now leaking and has play at the out put shaft, it flashes 4wd lights sometimes even though I override it with the BWM, it's jumped out of low range before and there is a small crack that's being filled in with JB weld which works but I'm afraid of I remove the drain plug it will crack again and start leaking, also I noticed that in 4hi and auto the power slips or doesn't engage all the way or at least not right away, it still works for now despite its quirks but sooner or later it's going to have to be replaced given the cost of rebuild I was thinking about going with a 1354m case in its place I already have the double cardan front drive shaft and my speed sensor is in the transfer case in my 96 so it should be a direct bolt-on but I wanted to go with a manual T case and I can't find a whole lot of information online on how to do it and which shift linkage to use, advance adapters seems to no longer make a kit and the shifter that's available that I've been able to find is the one where you have to crawl underneath the truck to switch the modes which I would much prefer to have a lever in side the cab. I know I can find an electronic shift 1354 then converted to manual as the manual case might be difficult to find does anybody have any pointers ideas? Or should I bite the bullet and tear apart the 4405 in the future and try to rebuild it but if that's the case I have looked at the cost of buying all the parts that I would want to replace during a rebuild and it gets very pricey pretty quick. Although I do like the features of the 4405 when it works correctly for my uses I would rather have just a simple mechanical engagement and not have to worry about all the electronic stuff and I never liked the idea of having a clutch being the only thing that drives the front axle.
All in all though because I installed the front axle disconnect mod so I can control it manually with a switch having to crawl under the truck to switch it into 4 wheel drive and then use the switch in the cab to control the front axle would be not so bad (I don't see any power to the front with open diff and passenger side axle disconnected seems like it would be like switching between 4wd and 2wd with that switch) unless I wanted to go into low range then I would have to crawl out again and back under the truck not a huge deal it definitely makes the process a lot easier and cheaper but I think it would be kind of a pain.
So what do you think?
Any other pointers?
All in all though because I installed the front axle disconnect mod so I can control it manually with a switch having to crawl under the truck to switch it into 4 wheel drive and then use the switch in the cab to control the front axle would be not so bad (I don't see any power to the front with open diff and passenger side axle disconnected seems like it would be like switching between 4wd and 2wd with that switch) unless I wanted to go into low range then I would have to crawl out again and back under the truck not a huge deal it definitely makes the process a lot easier and cheaper but I think it would be kind of a pain.
So what do you think?
Any other pointers?