jebexploder
New Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2009
- Messages
- 3
- Reaction score
- 0
- City, State
- North Carolina
- Year, Model & Trim Level
- 92, XLT
fixed a real problem for me cudos to the first post-er
This thread is an accurate post and awesome; this will be a timeless one for sure as the clackity clack clack of a window that won't go down does nothing but incite anger 
.
Still able to get the regulator buttons at autozone $7.99 per kit ( 3 each ), so for $ 32 you got winodws that work. Mine fit in easily after giving a light coat of bearing grease and putting them in at an angle . . . put the first one in then the other two , one end has a different bevel than the other so the more beveled end goes in first.
I didnt pull the dust cover off like above I just cut and "x" in them and resealed with the thin plastic silver "duct tape".
Two other things I almost forgot.
I cleaned out the button debris by placing a few ounces of Kleen Strip, "Prep all" in a coffee can and after placing the big plastic gear and the metal pinon in there and swishing that around, removing them and then using a blast of air from compressor hose with a blast nozzle. That saves a lot of time picking out the grunk from the inside of the gears. Compressed air blows it right out . . . just be sure and use common sense so you don't have to to to the ER to get stuff taken out of your eye ( I used a face sheild, after reading the one post about the guy that almost got his thumb cut off on the front window scissor I didn't take any chances on anything, even taped the windos in the up position). Be sure and blow out the debris from either side of the worm gear as that stuff packs down into the cavity that gear is in and that may be why some guys were having problems with the windows still after replacing the buttons . . .don't know for sure but that is why I made sure and blasted all the debris from the worm gear too.
I put marks on the cover plate denoting the position of the drive gear teeth so that when installing them it made the insertion into the female part of the regulator much easier. The rear windows have cable type regulators and there is a plate on the outboard side of this part that not only accepts the screw end that attaches the motor but also has a hole that the gear shaft end has to line up with and enter. If you can get the motor off the regulaotr without taking that plate off it will have a lot o time and aggravation on the repositioning after you overhaul the gear/button apparatus.
If I figure out how to include pictures I'll add some that aren't in the other threads.
This Web Site rocks
This thread is an accurate post and awesome; this will be a timeless one for sure as the clackity clack clack of a window that won't go down does nothing but incite anger . Still able to get the regulator buttons at autozone $7.99 per kit ( 3 each ), so for $ 32 you got winodws that work. Mine fit in easily after giving a light coat of bearing grease and putting them in at an angle . . . put the first one in then the other two , one end has a different bevel than the other so the more beveled end goes in first.
I didnt pull the dust cover off like above I just cut and "x" in them and resealed with the thin plastic silver "duct tape".
Two other things I almost forgot.
I cleaned out the button debris by placing a few ounces of Kleen Strip, "Prep all" in a coffee can and after placing the big plastic gear and the metal pinon in there and swishing that around, removing them and then using a blast of air from compressor hose with a blast nozzle. That saves a lot of time picking out the grunk from the inside of the gears. Compressed air blows it right out . . . just be sure and use common sense so you don't have to to to the ER to get stuff taken out of your eye ( I used a face sheild, after reading the one post about the guy that almost got his thumb cut off on the front window scissor I didn't take any chances on anything, even taped the windos in the up position). Be sure and blow out the debris from either side of the worm gear as that stuff packs down into the cavity that gear is in and that may be why some guys were having problems with the windows still after replacing the buttons . . .don't know for sure but that is why I made sure and blasted all the debris from the worm gear too.
I put marks on the cover plate denoting the position of the drive gear teeth so that when installing them it made the insertion into the female part of the regulator much easier. The rear windows have cable type regulators and there is a plate on the outboard side of this part that not only accepts the screw end that attaches the motor but also has a hole that the gear shaft end has to line up with and enter. If you can get the motor off the regulaotr without taking that plate off it will have a lot o time and aggravation on the repositioning after you overhaul the gear/button apparatus.
If I figure out how to include pictures I'll add some that aren't in the other threads.
This Web Site rocks
