1995 4.0 intermittent loss of power

[brownskee]

I will start this off with I have been searching every where with this issue and no one seems to have the same problem. This one has been manual swapped by the previous owner with the stock ecu and gem so it has every transmission code there can be which I cannot figure out if it has any relation to my issue or not. The real problem is I am driving and it will act like it's sputtering and heavily down on power like the flip of a switch, and usually last about 10 seconds and then goes back to normal, sometimes it lasts a second or 2 and then goes back to normal. If I turn the ignition off and back on the full power is back. This repeats every couple minutes. If anyone has had a similar issue on an OBD1 rig or even an OBD2 I would really appreciate any advice on this as I don't really want to just throw parts at it. It only has 141k miles. Thank you in advance.

 

[Pete Deering]

I will start this off with I have been searching every where with this issue and no one seems to have the same problem. This one has been manual swapped by the previous owner with the stock ecu and gem so it has every transmission code there can be which I cannot figure out if it has any relation to my issue or not. The real problem is I am driving and it will act like it's sputtering and heavily down on power like the flip of a switch, and usually last about 10 seconds and then goes back to normal, sometimes it lasts a second or 2 and then goes back to normal. If I turn the ignition off and back on the full power is back. This repeats every couple minutes. If anyone has had a similar issue on an OBD1 rig or even an OBD2 I would really appreciate any advice on this as I don't really want to just throw parts at it. It only has 141k miles. Thank you in advance.

I had a similar experience. It was my cam position sensor going bad; But it throws a code. The CEL will go on , then off when the engine goes back too normal.

 

[brownskee]

what sucks is there is only trans codes, mine almost acts like limp mode but I didn't think that a 95 had that, I also did a temp gun reading and it was 70-90 degrees colder at each cylinder on the driver's side so I know it's those cylinders

 

[Pete Deering]

what sucks is there is only trans codes, mine almost acts like limp mode but I didn't think that a 95 had that, I also did a temp gun reading and it was 70-90 degrees colder at each cylinder on the driver's side so I know it's those cylinders

Limp mode a cold default setting. Used on startup. Closed loop , is when its up too operating temp.
There is a connector on top of the tranny on pass side. My the transmission dip stick. Check that connector. Does the check engine light up, when you first turn the key to the on position?

it was 70-90 degrees colder at each cylinder on the driver's side so I know it's those cylinders.

1.Do a compressor check
2. Check and see if the spark plugs are firing
3. See if the injector are opening.

 

[Turdle]

Egr is on driver side iirc, you might check the egr valve is fully closing, or has a leaky diaphragm

 

[410Fortune]

You have 3 cylinders running 90 degrees cooler than the other side?

Any loss of coolant?

I would pull spark plugs and have a look see especially number 6 (rear most cyl)

I suspect bad head gasket letting coolant in

Otherwise the only difference between bank 2 (drivers side) and bank 1 is the egr as Jon pointed out
The fuel delivery and spark has no way to differentiate between bank 1 and 2

 

[brownskee]

so I do not have the dipstick anymore as it's been manual swapped but the check engine comes on with the key and then goes out once started, I swapped in new plugs and wires, they were all burning surprisingly clean and the same on all cylinders so I don't suspect head gasket as there is no coolant disappearing either.

as for the egr I will try that next, it's strange that it comes on like a flip of a switch and when it goes away on its own it just goes out like the flip of a switch back to full power or if I cycle the key it also goes away. it never lasts the same amount of time and it's not consistent with when it happens, it's just erratic.

I ordered a new computer out of a 95 4.0 manual ranger to try to get rid of the automatic engine codes so we will see if it is just the ecu taking a dump.

Thank you all for the responses, I will keep truckin on the issue.

 

[410Fortune]

Ranger ecu likely fix it
Make sure it has same amount of wiring pics at the pcm

95 ranger is half year some of them were actually obd2

 

[Turdle]

During tuning on my 347 truck, the tuner had the pcm code entered incorrectly. When I tried the tune it was like running on 4 cylinders. Went to correct vin code, and voila! Ran great. The issue in incorrect tune was egr being held open. Sounds like your description, which is why I suggest egr check.

For an experiment, might try disconnecting vacuum line from egr valve. Plug the vacuum line, and go for a drive. You'll get egr codes for sure, but if it runs ok without egr, it would be a clue.

 

[brownskee]

well hopefully the ecu works I didn't know that the 95 rangers had a 1/2 year deal, and I will try disconnecting the egr and see what happens