1997 Mountaineer 5.0 egr part ?

[monty98]

Hi, the mountaineer 5.0 just purchased 131k manufactured 10/96 has the tap tap tap on load. CEL shows P0153 O2 Circuit Slow Response Bank 2, Sensor 1. Know leaking anywhere can cause these types codes so not rushing out to replace the suggested oxygen sensor. Have isolated leak to the metal tube connecting to passenger side manifold & other end to the valve

? Mechanic suggested getting the tube & replacing the valve at the same time. My question is what parts to order for this?

My part number (also same on my 1998) is f55e-90475-a4a When look up parts on Ford website by Vin it gives EGR Valve f6p2-9h473-aa & vacuum regulator f63z-9j459-aa (no pictures) & if search for part number says none exists.

This closest could find suggested for 1997 is amazon motorcraft cx1742 EGR valve & recommended dorman tube598-111. Not sure if links allowed.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-C...m=1997:mercury:mountaineer&keywords=egr+valve

Should I just get the tube for now as that what leaking & see if continue codes? Is that motorcraft & dorman part the correct one? Or should the other components be done at this time. Seems there is position sensor, egr feedback sensor... It seems most are fairly easy to get to unless some complication not visible. Will be having a local mechanic put the tube & other parts in (he recommended replacing egr valve same time) so want get what necessary.

I'm planning to get a scan tool to use with forscan & some other software for my chevy truck so that will hopefully help going forward.

Any advise/input greatly appreciated as want get this fixed soon as possible as very loud & truck lacks energy up hill.

 

[Turdle]

Your early made tubular headers will crack before the egr tube lets go. In fact I would almost bet it is already cracked under the heat sheilds where it is not visible.

The nuts on either end of the egr tube are very unpredictable. Might let go, or, you might break your vice trying like I did once using a 6 foot cheater pipe in an attempt to win.

I would order a 99 up exhaust manifold,bolts for it, new manifold to down pipe bolts, egr tube and new egr valve, plus an EGR valve gasket. Plan a weekend for this, get some friends to come help. Cut the manifold to downpipe bolts for easy dis assembly. Be very careful extracting the header bolts from the head. You will find if you remove the driver side front wheel, and remove the inner splash sheild a whole warehouse of working room is opened up by working thru the wheel well.
Just be sure to support the truck on a good level surface using good jack stands.

The newer 99 up style cast manifolds do not crack as easily, and flow a bit better. They do use different length bolts however.

Oh, you might also check the 2 EGR tube to DPFE sensor rubber hoses. They often split out near the connections toward the rear where you cannot see--

 

[410Fortune]

very helpful Jon
that is the correct part
You can get manifolds on Ebay for like $90 a set....I just used some on a 5.0L conversion I am doing....The new/ebay cast manifolds are the way to go and the gaskets they sent with the kit are not bad (crushed layered aluminum style)

 

[monty98]

Used Dorman on my 98 & lasted over 100k miles so that not bad. I see Rock auto sells ATP is that any better/worse than Dorman?

We stethoscope for any sound from manifold & none totally isolated to tube. Mechanic has dx prior leaks not visible so trusting ok. Just hope good doses pblaster makes that tube bust loose without issues.

He going to do thermostat same time as no heat; either locked open or they put low temp one in as it not letting engine get hot enough. I did coolant flush & replaced heater control valve & now hear activator/door trying work still no heat! Both my vehicles without heat (mouse nest eviction necessary in pu) & it is getting cold out there.

Tempted get manifold ordered local store in event things bust up & if not can return it. Discounts get it pretty close ebay prices.

no time do things myself as building a cabin & no place out of the weather.

Thanks for input. This forum very helpful.

ps Forscan found abs wheel speed sensor code so replacing that. Should probably ask another place but is it best to replace in pairs or ok just one. Problem is right front. Also, is it best to stick with Ford or are cheap aftermarket ok? Do these also provide info for transfer case & potential problems there?

 

[410Fortune]

you can replace just one
If you are replacing just the sensor then you can use any brand
If you replace the entire wheel bearing stick with Timken or Spicer or Ford

You should consider a back flush for your heater core if you determine the blend door is working and the heater control valve is also working
I very much doubt the thermostat is the cause of no heat especially if you see normal operating range of the water temp on your dash