1998 Explorer 5.0 “Restoration2021” project

[EB4X]

You never had the heads off this one correct? As you know could be some significant carbon buildup on piston heads, had this problem with prior Ranger, "steamed cleaned" them by sucking in spaced out "sips" of distilled water through vacuum intake hose.... can get even better results with sea foam or other engine cleaners. After 3 minute treatment no more pinging for at least 14 months..... then repeat. Change oil after treatment.

 

[SuperGordo]

You never had the heads off this one correct? As you know could be some significant carbon buildup on piston heads, had this problem with prior Ranger, "steamed cleaned" them by sucking in spaced out "sips" of distilled water through vacuum intake hose.... can get even better results with sea foam or other engine cleaners. After 3 minute treatment no more pinging for at least 14 months..... then repeat. Change oil after treatment.

No I didn't pull the heads. I did stick a bore scope in the spark plug holes and things looked clean. But steam cleaning couldn't hurt. I'll give that a go.

 

[SuperGordo]

Been super busy this week. So since I first drove it I haven't been able to do much with it. But yesterday I cleaned the MAF and took it for a drive. That improved the spark knock but did not eliminate it. But I was able to drive it more aggressive than the first trip. The engine has good power. I have no leaks other than the recovery tank is letting as couple drips out where the hose attaches to it. The tank has a lifetime warranty. Just gonna swap it for a clean one.
I've gotten a pending code for p0141. O2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. So I need to check that.
Main concern so far is this. At first start when it is cold. It will start then immediately die. Then crank it again it will start then struggle, but then recover and run. Then while it is in high idle warming up the idle will fluctuate 100-150 rpm up and down. Not sure if I have a crappy IACV, or a vacuum leak. But this is something I need to sort out.

 

[SuperGordo]

I put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail this morning. PSI went to 30 then started to decline. Once it starts it's running at 24psi. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Ford specs should have the fuel pump at 35psi when you key it on. I'm gonna try and drop the tank tomorrow and replace it and the filter and see what happens.

 

[allmyEXes]

I would guess about 35 psi minimum on the fuel pressure. No return style may be different poundage, but we know yours has the fuel return set-up.
What year is your truck, and could you look on the door info and see what the paint code is? If I were to find a hatch before mid-fall, I could get it to you a far as Phoenix @Josh P, if Josh would tote it on his return trip.
Glad to hear it is going well except for the bugs. This past April, I repaired several things to the wife's '97 4.0 SOHC truck including installing a steering rack & pinion on it. I created a bug when the sending unit connector for the gauge crumbled. At least the PCM temp sensor is working. The intake has to come back off to fix that and I would like to fix the AC. I'm not sure which direction to go on it considering that there is no refrigerant pressure on the system at all. Look for leaking connections first? Shoot at least two cans of refrigerant in to see if it will work? Sounds like I may have to throw a few parts at it.
Let me know on the year and paint code.

 

[Josh P]

I could put in the truck or trailer and bring it west

 

[CDW6212R]

I put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail this morning. PSI went to 30 then started to decline. Once it starts it's running at 24psi. Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I believe Ford specs should have the fuel pump at 35psi when you key it on. I'm gonna try and drop the tank tomorrow and replace it and the filter and see what happens.

That's too low for the fuel pressure, sorry to hear that about a relatively new pump. The Ford return style systems need about 35psi running minimum, if it drops into the 32 and below range it's too weak. The vacuum(pulled) should push it up to the 42psi level, this all for a 1998 of course.

My 99 with the V6 did that slowly over a year or more, it finally fell below 60psi to about 52-55psi running. That gave me a lean code, but it was the pump rubber hose(split), not the pump.

 

[410Fortune]

36 psi is spec
24 way tooo low

Good job checking the fuel rail
Pressure!

 

[SuperGordo]

I would guess about 35 psi minimum on the fuel pressure. No return style may be different poundage, but we know yours has the fuel return set-up.
What year is your truck, and could you look on the door info and see what the paint code is? If I were to find a hatch before mid-fall, I could get it to you a far as Phoenix @Josh P, if Josh would tote it on his return trip.
Glad to hear it is going well except for the bugs. This past April, I repaired several things to the wife's '97 4.0 SOHC truck including installing a steering rack & pinion on it. I created a bug when the sending unit connector for the gauge crumbled. At least the PCM temp sensor is working. The intake has to come back off to fix that and I would like to fix the AC. I'm not sure which direction to go on it considering that there is no refrigerant pressure on the system at all. Look for leaking connections first? Shoot at least two cans of refrigerant in to see if it will work? Sounds like I may have to throw a few parts at it.
Let me know on the year and paint code.

Model year is 1998 paint code is RC. Which I believe is medium Platinum metallic.
My brother lives in Phoenix, so if you do find a nice tailgate dropping it there is fine.

If your AC has no pressure and you aren't sure where to start. Replace the schrader valves and run a vacuum pump and see if it holds any vacuum. Also look for any visible refrigerant oil on the compressor, condenser, and connections. When you have a leak the freon takes oil with it from the system, very often it leaves in behind where the leak is.

 

[SuperGordo]

Thanks for the tips guys! At least the pump is free and dropping the tank isn't too hard. And as we already know, there isn't much fuel in there right now. Once I get the pump in I'll retest pressure, then check everything again.

 

[SuperGordo]

Ok, Here is what I did today. Replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. Replaced the MAF. Swapped in a used rear O2 sensor. Swapping the o2 sensor fixed the P0141 code.
The new fuel pump sounds better than the old one. Fuel filter was pretty clean. Did not get a load of black crap out of it.
After the fuel pump the fuel pressure readings are still about the same. Which leads me to think I need to double check with a different test gauge. I have two others that fit GM size and no Ford adapters handy. So I will come back to that.
Drove it around a bunch again. Took it on the highway. Still getting some spark knock on acceleration. So I have to consider how to fix that. But it drives well. Power is good. Engine temp sits at 199. No leaks.

Need to sort out these last little things and send it home by this coming weekend. Also need to find a donor cluster to grab a factory oil pressure gauge from.

 

[SuperGordo]

I tried swapping a Duralast IACV in place of the Hitachi one that I currently have. The problem got worse. Started poorly, took several tries to get it to start and then it didn't really normalize the Idle. So I swapped the original back on and it was immediately better. Years ago I did a whole bunch of work on a Thunderbird Supercoupe. All was well but it had a strange idle issue despite all the best efforts and work. Turned out that the throttle shaft was worn a bit and caused a vacuum leak. Replaced the TB with another and the car was great. I'm starting to wonder if at 271k miles I need to find a different TB. I also had the EX on my Snap on Solus scanner today and definitely getting a misfire in cylinder 7. Might bite the bullet and just get new plugs. Weren't a ton of miles on these, but who knows right?

Otherwise, no leaks from anywhere. Still good engine temps, good oil pressure.
Question for the group. The bracket for the ignition coils doesn't need to ground to the engine correct? Currently I just have it sitting there, haven't bolted it down yet.

Just need to get this starting/idle thing worked out and it can go back to duty!

 

[CDW6212R]

The coil bracket has the ballast bolted to it on one coil bolt, that grounds through the bracket. I'd run one bolt in at least for that.

 

[Turdle]

The coils ground is the bolt holes, the bracket should be grounded for sure.
Depending on your intake manifold, you'll probably need to bend or remove a bolt ear or 2 from the bracket. Try to get at least one stud to hold it.

 

[CDW6212R]

The coils ground is the bolt holes, the bracket should be grounded for sure.
Depending on your intake manifold, you'll probably need to bend or remove a bolt ear or 2 from the bracket. Try to get at least one stud to hold it.

That too, obvious and I thought it was a trick question.

 

[SuperGordo]

Thanks guys. I do have the correct studded bolts there. But because I'm not quite done with everything i haven't bolted it down. The bracket is sitting on the studs. I'll get that done asap. Thanks for the info. That's what I was looking for.

 

[SuperGordo]

Question. Does anyone have an extra 5.0 throttle body they might want to sell?

So I had a long work day today and I wasn't able to try anything on the EX at all. Yesterday I moved it from the street behind my gate on my property. Now I live in las Vegas and the outside temperature is suddenly hot. So I got home a few minutes ago. I started the EX and it started perfect and ran perfect. The issue I am after with the hard start only happens when it is a little "colder". So now that it is 90 degrees in the dark at 8pm It starts great. After thinking about this for a bit it did do this before the new engine. So I don't believe that it is the actual engine. So I need to look at what few items where on this EX when I bought it in October 2021. The throttle body is one of those parts... Guess I need to break out the smoke machine..

Let me know if you have any thoughts. Thanks everyone!

 

[410Fortune]

Engine coolant temp sensor is suspect

If your hard start condition changes with the temp outside then the ect is suspect as is, of course, the fuel system/pump

 

[SuperGordo]

Engine coolant temp sensor is suspect

If your hard start condition changes with the temp outside then the ect is suspect as is, of course, the fuel system/pump

For the record I did replace the temp sensor last year when I pulled the intake on the first motor. I reused the coolant tube that has the sensor in it for the PCM. I'll take a live data reading the next time I start it.
And as you already know I changed the pump and filter and everything is the same.

 

[SuperGordo]

So I went out and did the first start of the day.
I plugged in the scanner and it showed 75 degrees at the ECT. I grabbed a laser thermometer. The coolant in the radiator was 78 degree, everything else on the engine was 78-80 degrees. Outside temps at 845am 80 degrees. All seems normal. Did the cold start and it struggled. Stalled at first. chugged on second start and eventually got itself together and idled.

I grabbed my Snap on Solus. It has a function that lets you control the IACV. When you start that function it shows the IAC at a setting of 40. it allows you to raise or lower the idle in increments of 10. Interestingly enough the car won't stall even if you take it down to zero.

I have a bunch of other stuff to get done today, so I won't get to deal with this now. I will try the test again later tonight when it's hotter out. We shall compare then. I'm gonna see if I can get another throttle body at the junkyard to compare with.