2000 AWD Xploder from Turbo back to NA

[BrianDye]

I'm scared to call a shop and ask lol

 

[willzilla]

I'm scared to call a shop and ask lol

For cost of install?

I'm hoping removal of my old manifold (which will be a little harder due to damaged bolt, ugh), install of headers, and exhaust piping... is $500 or less... HOPING lol.

 

[willzilla]

Unless anyone in or near TN wants to come help me out with the install? FREE unlimited beer and food and some cash as well LOL

 

[willzilla]

Anyone have a suggestion on if I should use my copper gaskets or the TMH included ones? Also, should I use my stage 8 bolts or the TMH included ones??

Thank you!

 

[BrianDye]

Cant say much, but I remember reading members saying get a nice quality set of aftermarket gaskets to use instead.

 

[willzilla]

Cant say much, but I remember reading members saying get a nice quality set of aftermarket gaskets to use instead.

Yeah.. I remember reading that as well, then I remember reading that TMH's started using better gaskets, but... The copper ones I was given when I bought the truck along with the FMS headers seem considerably better still than the current TMH gasket set... So, I am leaning towards just using the copper ones

 

[rocket 5979]

So, I am leaning towards just using the copper ones

This. And use the Stage 8's as long as they are the same length as the ones from TMH.

 

[celly]

Anyone have a suggestion on if I should use my copper gaskets or the TMH included ones?

Be wary of the copper gaskets. Turdle tried them with mine and they just wouldn't seal up. We just couldn't get them to mash down. Multiple exhaust leaks after several tries. We went with the TMH provided gaskets and they've held out so far (two years later).

I scored a set of Percy's gaskets as a backup, but they're still sitting in the garage in their packaging. They look like they'd mash down MUCH better than copper. In retrospect, I wish we tried those instead of the coppers.

I'm hoping removal of my old manifold (which will be a little harder due to damaged bolt, ugh), install of headers, and exhaust piping... is $500 or less... HOPING lol.

Wow, your shop much charge next to nothing for labour. Good luck getting all that for $500.

 

[willzilla]

Be wary of the copper gaskets. Turdle tried them with mine and they just wouldn't seal up. We just couldn't get them to mash down. Multiple exhaust leaks after several tries. We went with the TMH provided gaskets and they've held out so far (two years later).

I scored a set of Percy's gaskets as a backup, but they're still sitting in the garage in their packaging. They look like they'd mash down MUCH better than copper. In retrospect, I wish we tried those instead of the coppers.

Wow, your shop much charge next to nothing for labour. Good luck getting all that for $500.

Haha ya $500 was prayer guess lol.. Tho a guy goes to my gym who owns his own exhaust shop and is good friends with a guy I lift with sooooo going to try to work that angle! Lol.

So, perhaps I should think on scoring some Percy's gaskets? Rather have the best on when I drop the money down for the work to be done so it's done and over with the first time lol.

 

[rocket 5979]

Be wary of the copper gaskets. Turdle tried them with mine and they just wouldn't seal up. We just couldn't get them to mash down. Multiple exhaust leaks after several tries. We went with the TMH provided gaskets and they've held out so far (two years later).

I scored a set of Percy's gaskets as a backup, but they're still sitting in the garage in their packaging. They look like they'd mash down MUCH better than copper. In retrospect, I wish we tried those instead of the coppers.



Wow, your shop much charge next to nothing for labour. Good luck getting all that for $500.

The coppers are fine as long as the header flange is dead straight. It is more critical to retorque the header bolts after a heat cycle with the coppers as well.

 

[willzilla]

The coppers are fine as long as the header flange is dead straight. It is more critical to retorque the header bolts after a heat cycle with the coppers as well.

Ahh... Good point, thank you

 

[celly]

Ahh... Good point, thank you

Good luck with that.

Turdle had done many TMH installs before he did mine and did not like the results with the copper gaskets. He felt bad because he recommended them as an upgrade for my install.

 

[rocket 5979]

Good luck with that.

Turdle had done many TMH installs before he did mine and did not like the results with the copper gaskets. He felt bad because he recommended them as an upgrade for my install.

Nothing against Jons skills but I doubt it was the gaskets fault. Coppers have been getting used by many a performance enthusiast for years with good results. The coppers are more temperamental when installing because they don't crush as much; but if you follow the right procedure (surface preps, torque sequence, torque amount, heat cycle, retorque) then there should not be any issues as long as you don't have the wrong gasket. If you really want to make sure a perfect seal is achieved then apply just a hint of high temp copper RTV to header flange primary flange surface after you have verified it is smooth and flat. This will ensure that any minute surface irregularities are taken care of. The only reason a copper gasket should not work right is if the header flange is warped or have allot of irregularities.

If you want ease of install then go with the TM supplied ones, if you want strength and longevity then go with the coppers. If it were me I would go with the coppers and take a little extra time/effort to make sure I do it right. But that is just me. If you want to keep things simple and safe then that is fine too.

 

[willzilla]

Have been busy past month or two.. Wife giving birth to our son soon so spending time building all the stuff for his room.. Hope to get headers on and exhaust installed end of the year or jan tho!!

 

[justin146]

Are those the copper gaskets I gave you? I dont remember what brand they are, but they were pretty expensive if I remember. They are two layers of copper with a "crush" type stuff sandwiched in them. They arent supposed to leak.

Did you find where the oil line was? There is a pipe thread T at the oil sending unit and an AN adapter on it for the oil line I believe. You should be able to get to it if you remove the drivers side inner fender.


EDIT: I went back through my Photobucket and found this:

 

[willzilla]

Hey man.. Thanks for the info... Yes, the gaskets are the ones u gave me and I do intend to use them for the install. I found a guy at my gym who owns an exhaust shop and has built headers/exhaust setups for everything up thru drag cars for 30+ years so am going to have him do my install :-D

Yeah.. I had found that oil line and man... What a tight fit lol... Can hardly get a hand to it lol... Been busy (just had my son born) but hopefully will get that line removed soon!

Thanks!

 

[willzilla]

Sprained my lower back a few weeks ago deadlifting which has put a dent on getting any work done on the Xploder but I should be ordering the muffler and tips next week and get the headers installed and exhaust work done in a few weeks as well!! I may just end up going 2.5" from headers to X pipe muffler then 2.5" duals out back into 3" dual tips for simplicity. We shall see!!

 

[willzilla]

Yeah.. decided for simplicity of the install (and ease of the shop in running the pipes)... I decided on a dual setup with 2.5" pipes from the torque monster headers into a 2.5" dual in/2.5" dual out Full Boar Max Flow SS Muffler (5x8x18" Body/24" Overall) [ http://www.mandrelbendingsolutions.com/servlet/the-849/Full-Boar-Exhaust/Detail ] then dual 2.5" pipes off the muffler's dual output and exit out the passenger side rear at a bit of an angle with the tailpipes next to each other. I was going to go with 409SS piping to prevent any rust-thru and don't need the sexiness of 304SS so 409SS seems a nice middle ground (and matches the muffler grade).

Question for anyone... I believe the stock exhaust has 4 o2 sensors and 4 cats... My plan is NO cats and I want to replace all the exhaust piping as what is on the truck is pretty ****ty looking and falling apart lol. Do I need to KEEP all 4 o2 sensors (or 2 of them? Or none?) as I will have the car re-tuned for the new setup and such.

Thank you!!

 

[brewdan23]

i would stay at 2.5 run a x pipe to dual 40's and side exits just before the rear tires also it looks pretty nice if you can do dual tips on each side at an angle bout a 45degree

 

[willzilla]

i would stay at 2.5 run a x pipe to dual 40's and side exits just before the rear tires also it looks pretty nice if you can do dual tips on each side at an angle bout a 45degree

I already have the muffler (the one linked above) which is a dual in/dual out (kind of like an X pipe I suppose)... Was going to dual them out next to each other out the rear passenger side as it seems every dual exhaust truck around here has duals going one out each side, so, was looking for a more laid back stealthy approach haha.