2000 X AWD 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust/cats installed

[Turdle]

Just for giggles
The large square connector against the firewall, dead center above intake manifold.

Loosen up the bolt,and pull connector. Look it over for anything bent or out if line, debris or heat damage. Then re connect, and tighten bolt.
Those connections are needed to start. That connector is often overlooked , disconnected during engine work

 

[Josh P]

Just for giggles
The large square connector against the firewall, dead center above intake manifold.

Loosen up the bolt,and pull connector. Look it over for anything bent or out if line, debris or heat damage. Then re connect, and tighten bolt.
Those connections are needed to start. That connector is often overlooked , disconnected during engine work

Remember a few years ago when I helped another forum member diagnose a no spark no start, it ended up being that connector.

 

[Stickman1966]

Just for giggles
The large square connector against the firewall, dead center above intake manifold.

Loosen up the bolt,and pull connector. Look it over for anything bent or out if line, debris or heat damage. Then re connect, and tighten bolt.
Those connections are needed to start. That connector is often overlooked , disconnected during engine work

Yeah Josh had mentioned that earlier + I'm going to get to that as soon as possible which should have been 2 hours ago but as it is with no vehicle you have to depend on other people and my other people are not dependable. I will check that out. and then I'll say just to save time, let's say it's not that connector and everything's fine on that connector what next? because the way it's been going that is going to be the next question I'm running out of the eliminators LOL

 

[Stickman1966]

I will do that as soon as possible thanks

okay fellas I have to lower my head and put my hands in my pockets and kick the ground a couple times + admit that I am getting a spark. Fortune was right when he watched the video of the engine bay while I was turning it over that there he did hear what he thought was a spark at the coil packs and I'm getting a spark all the way down to the spark plug. But truck still will not start. so we are back I'm guessing at fuel related when I turned it over when I am in the driver side and door open after I stop I get a strong smell of gas doesn't happen right away but I want to say 10 seconds 15 seconds after I turn the key to off. I've checked the fuel filter area and there's no signs of leaking and like I said the only pressure test I've done on the fuel rails was depressing the valve on top of the right Bank fuel rail I believe that's the right Bank. now I want to know what everybody thinks it could be I guess need input again. the PCM is new or refurbished but pre-came pre-flashed my lock and key guy made me new keys for the rig on his scanner everything checked out until he got to the vehicle condition and it said vehicle does not start now my buddy showed up with his snap-on scanner and he couldn't find anything wrong as far as there was one code that popped up and that was the p something 1116 code had to do with the coolant temperature sensor faulty or not enough voltage in the battery to read it or something like that anyway help.

 

[Josh P]

I'm curious why it didn't run on starting fluid if you have spark?

 

[410Fortune]

Check fuel pressure at the rail
Can rent a pressure tester
64 psi + /- is spec for a 2000
When you turn the key to run the fuel pump should prime and start to Build pressure.
Prime the key 2-3 times and it should easily reach 64 psi
If not then you need to sort out why

You can put your ear to the fuel filler neck while somebody turns the key, this will give you a good idea of the health of your fuel pump.

Starting fluid must be injected past the throttle body butterfly for the truck to want to start… careful I’ve seen more then one airbox explode on these rigs from not using starter fluid correctly lol lol

 

[Stickman1966]

Check fuel pressure at the rail
Can rent a pressure tester
64 psi + /- is spec for a 2000
When you turn the key to run the fuel pump should prime and start to Build pressure.
Prime the key 2-3 times and it should easily reach 64 psi
If not then you need to sort out why

You can put your ear to the fuel filler neck while somebody turns the key, this will give you a good idea of the health of your fuel pump.

Starting fluid must be injected past the throttle body butterfly for the truck to want to start… careful I’ve seen more then one airbox explode on these rigs from not using starter fluid correctly lol lol

That's what I'm gonna do today I'm going to pressure test at the fuel rail and go from there. Let's just say that I do have sufficient amount of pressure. If pressure is sufficient, what else could be causing no combustion? Understand also that after turning it over for a good 10 seconds the odor of fuel is abundant right at the driver's side mostly and the tailpipe also and I'm guessing that at the tailpipe is unused fuel draining that's what I was told anyway.

 

[410Fortune]

Stuck injector or injectors being held wide open by the computer (rare)

Way more common to have low fuel
Pressure cause a dribble from the injectors instead of atomization


Injectors should audibly click when trying to start and cranking

Does the oil smell like gas?

 

[Stickman1966]

Stuck injector or injectors being held wide open by the computer (rare)

Way more common to have low fuel
Pressure cause a dribble from the injectors instead of atomization


Injectors should audibly click when trying to start and cranking

Does the oil smell like gas?

So I did a fuel pressure test and from what I can gather I was getting 50 55 PSI at the fuel rail. Obviously fuel pump is working I did put my ear to the tank I heard it prime fuel filter also is not plugged. With that said and all of the electrical issues being back on board fuses being checked and cleared and no damage or broken fuses relays check out I am left with something is preventing the fuel injectors from atomizing fuel. When the new exhaust was welded in something Happened to my truck to not allow injectors to work. I have literally gone throughout this motor and checked everything sill no start. I tried the starting fluid straight in right at the butterfly on the intake wide open even trying to get a good angle of squirting it in past that 90 degree turn but from what I was told starting fluid needs a little bit of gasoline to aid its combustion Starting fluid didn't help. Something is preventing all the injectors to not operate turn on Springfield wherever you wanna say and I'm quickly getting to the point of losing faith and giving up. This is not funny anymore Anybody wants to throw me a bone would be a much appreciated.

 

[amj441]

double check that your wires are plugged into the correct coil/coil positions.

This point you might want to start checking compression.

Ive also attached a location diagram of wiring harnesses to maybe find something that isnt/is where its supposed to be

Spoiler: Engine Bay wiring routes

 

[Josh P]

Since it won't run on starting fluid that means 2 things, either there's an issue with the ignition system or there's an issue with the engine. Spark plug wires could have been messed with. You stated someone else has a remote. With the engine it's almost lottery odds something happened to the timing chain. Not impossible but almost unheard of.

 

[410Fortune]

50 Psi is not enough
60-68 psi is correct
It should run on starting fluid alone
Unless the plugs and cylinders are already flooded w gasoline

Compression test would be the next order of business

The injectors should make an audible
Click when cranking the engine

 

[Stickman1966]

double check that your wires are plugged into the correct coil/coil positions.
View attachment 463370

This point you might want to start checking compression.

Ive also attached a location diagram of wiring harnesses to maybe find something that isnt/is where its supposed to be

Spoiler: Engine Bay wiring routes

View attachment 463368

The spark plug wires are and have been in the correct firing order And thank you for the sensor Diagram

Since it won't run on starting fluid that means 2 things, either there's an issue with the ignition system or there's an issue with the engine. Spark plug wires could have been messed with. You stated someone else has a remote. With the engine it's almost lottery odds something happened to the timing chain. Not impossible but almost unheard of.

I was told that with starting fluid the gasoline motor starting fluid alone will not or most of the time will not cause combustion starting fluid needs a little bit of gasoline with it. And yes my ex-wife's lesbian as the keys but that does not matter anymore because the new preprogrammed PCM has been programmed for new keys so obsolete

 

[Stickman1966]

50 Psi is not enough
60-68 psi is correct
It should run on starting fluid alone
Unless the plugs and cylinders are already flooded w gasoline

Compression test would be the next order of business

The injectors should make an audible
Click when cranking the engine

Thanks fortune yeah I was trying to listen to that click yesterday and I thought I heard something but short of using a stethoscope I was relying on my hearing aids LOL true story I'm gonna bite the bullet and get ahold of Mechanic and talk about compression test s

 

[410Fortune]

You can feel the injectors click as well

 

[Josh P]

A gasoline engine will run on starting fluid without needing any gas mixed with the starting fluid. A compression test would be next on the things to check. Harbor freight has an inexpensive unit.

 

[Stickman1966]

A gasoline engine will run on starting fluid without needing any gas mixed with the starting fluid. A compression test would be next on the things to check. Harbor freight has an inexpensive unit.

well this is the crank no start guy checking in + basically just giving a rundown on the new parts I have purchased in my effort of shooting a shotgun full of birdshot hoping to kill the Black widow spider it's just the birdshot is not actual birdshot it's full of parts for a 2000 Explorer limited 5.0 non-starting motor. and the Black widow spider is said truck so my latest ammo that I have fired at this truck would be a fuel pump and fuel filter. I said **** dropping that tank all the way so I cut an access hole on the floorboard of my truck and now I will pause while everybody laughs.............. okay now we got that out of the way, my truck still didn't start. took the fuel line loose from the fuel rails at the quick disconnect or shall I say, whoever calls it a quick disconnect or a quick connect should be ****ing donkey punched because there's nothing quick about it. anyway 3 days later I got it off, that's an exaggeration by the way, and crank the motor and I was getting no fuel in between the upstream of the fuel filter and the fuel rail I was getting fuel from the tank to the fuel filter because I took the line off on the quick connect, again, nothing quick about it, but crank the motor and fuel was shooting out of the exit side of the fuel filter. but no fuel coming up to the fuel rails so I came to the conclusion that that part of the fuel line was blocked. oh I forgot to mention that running a pressure test I thought that you were supposed to hook up the gauge to the the valve on the fuel rail. I tried to hook it up and it was too small wouldn't fit so that valve sitting on a hexagon what looked to be protecter cap of somewhat thinking that it was to be removed and expose the bigger threaded valve. now I know what you're asking yourself, why would they put a smaller valve on top of a larger valve.? Yeah well I don't know why but I went to remove it and I..... well you know what happened next. so having that 1/4-in hole in my fuel rail I put the hose fuel hose back on the fuel rail with the quick connect because that is a quick connect it connects quick yeah, and then I used a air broom a blow gun for my air compressor and I stuck it in that quarter-in hole that was now in my fuel rail and I blew 120 PSI and blew that line out. But nothing came out the back end so I used my quick unconnect mother ****er tool to unconnect the fuel line of the fuel rail and I blew out the fuel rails and then I stuck a blow gun in the coach + couldn't get it to blow out so that hose right there was ****ed it's blocked. So I'm thinking to myself I think I found the problem I have actually said that to myself I think 20 ****ing times at least. like I said I think I found the problem. so I bought some fuel hose and I ran my own ****ing fuel line from the fuel filter with a hose clamp on up to the fuel rails well actually to the braided line that goes to the fuel rails with another hose clamp onto the quick connect quick disconnect whatever the **** that's called and it shouldn't be called a ****ing quick nothing. got that hooked up crank the motor and I was getting fuel shooting through that little quarter in hole that I had in my fuel rail. so I tried to patch the fuel rail with rubber hose which I sliced lengthwise the hose itself was about inch and a half long and I clamped it on each side and obviously it didn't work for **** and I don't know why I thought it would because nothing has yet, right? so I cut that fuel rail Right there where that hole was and I pulled the intake up and off got to the fuel rail pulled it off blew it out and I welded that mother ****er together. now I know what you're asking yourself, why don't you just buy another fuel rail well I would if this town had one but O'Reilly's and AutoZone are all aftermarket and ordering and into the buck and a half $2 range so my next obvious choice was wrecking yard and my U-Pull-It all their explorers and what not have been raped clean so I welded it and I did a pressure test on it my pressure test had to do with plugging all of the injector holes and that vacuum line hose and I blew in it and I could not get any air to come through so I'm calling it goodwel and I installed that on and I got the upper intake on + got rained on like a mother ****er + dark and here we are. so that concludes my update and I just want to say also that I still appreciate each and every one of you guys that have given me your $0.02 and have tried to figure out what the deal is but when I get this thing put the bag together and I crank it and it doesn't start I know it's not fuel and I already knew it's not spark so I guess the only thing I have to go with is compression and why would it be Dad I don't know. Why isn't it starting after I had the exhaust put in? I don't know I do know I am minutes away of locating some c4 or Dynamite I don't know something that'll just obliterate my truck I'm going to get a hold of MythBusters those ************* blew up a concrete truck one time they loaded it with c4 I'm pretty sure. I will keep you updated

 

[allmyEXes]

Before you do anything rash, make sure that you have full coverage insurance.

 

[Josh P]

I've come to the conclusion that the Looney Tunes was created based on real life experiences. The compression test will reveal any issue with the motor.

 

[Josh P]

I've about come to the conclusion that there is some "leg pulling" going on.

If that was the case, I'd have to give credit for how well written it is describing the frustration. I would like to see pictures of the modified fuel rail.