2000 X AWD 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust/cats installed | Page 8 | Ford Explorer Forums

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2000 X AWD 5.0 cranks but no start after new exhaust/cats installed

Red wire to injectors is powered by the pcm relay

Fuse 10 under the hood powers all the injectors when the ignition key is turned

The ignition key sends power to trigger the relay though fuse 19 interior fuse box and the power diode in the under hood fuse box

View attachment 463683

The red wire from that relay goes to many places including all 8 injectors

Through plug c115

View attachment 463684

View attachment 463685

View attachment 463686

Here is c115, pin 9 red

View attachment 463687

If you jumper pin 30 to pin 87 at the pcm relay you should have power at red wire
Right on man thanks again you have just shown me exactly what I've been looking for all day and have a hard time finding it. I will put this to good use.
The inertia switch cuts power to the fuel pump when it trips

The pats theft system does disable the injectors, the theft light will tell you if pat’s is happy or not

Going carbed you would need to limit fuel pressure to 6psi and add a distributor and some sort of ignition.

Rhe battery should have three grounds, one to the body at the radiator support, one to the frame and one to the engine
Also there should be a ground strap at the back of the intake drivers side head that connects to the firewall near the wiper motor

The injectors are powered at red wire with key on and then the pcm triggers or fires them with the ground wire

Sorry your truck is being a pita!!! Test fuel psi
It could be a fuel pressure issue that is still there because the rail is still not right?
Ladies and gentlemen I come before you with a humble mind and a retarded soul. I just have two words to say....... spark plugs........... I'm going to pause right now so everybody can get it out in laughter, expletives and just simple I ****ing told you so's............ 410 Fortune? are you done? I don't blame you if you're not. yes, I pulled one plug last night + was shocked at the ugliness of it so I then proceeded to pull all the plugs and they all look the same I'm attaching it a nice little picture of one so you can see what I'm talking about not that you couldn't see what all the other things that I've been talking about. every plug was not only fouled fubared, they all had a slight Bend to the left off center to the electrode. I'm standing right now adding up the money that I put into this rig to get it to fire + not counting the exhaust LOL I'm at about 450 bucks that includes the spark plugs by the way LOL. Yes I'm still able to laugh at myself. one of the positives of this whole thing is my introduction to you and a few of the boys. I'm not sure what else to say but I will take my lashings + you guys want a group post or community post my situation as to know what not to do that I'm fine with that and I will take my discipline and learn from it. but I'll just end it with this, I GOT MY MOTHER ****ING X TO START! obviously the first thing I did was hop in it and took it for a little drive and it's got some missing issues and I can only begin to guess LOL it is probably fuel related LOL but with my knowledge and experience that I've gained in the last 90 days I think I'll be able to figure it out. and I know, you don't have to say it, I'm grounded LOL.
The inertia switch cuts power to the fuel pump when it trips

The pats theft system does disable the injectors, the theft light will tell you if pat’s is happy or not

Going carbed you would need to limit fuel pressure to 6psi and add a distributor and some sort of ignition.

Rhe battery should have three grounds, one to the body at the radiator support, one to the frame and one to the engine
Also there should be a ground strap at the back of the intake drivers side head that connects to the firewall near the wiper motor

The injectors are powered at red wire with key on and then the pcm triggers or fires them with the ground wire

Sorry your truck is being a pita!!! Test fuel psi
It could be a fuel pressure issue that is still there because the rail is still not right?

The inertia switch cuts power to the fuel pump when it trips

The pats theft system does disable the injectors, the theft light will tell you if pat’s is happy or not

Going carbed you would need to limit fuel pressure to 6psi and add a distributor and some sort of ignition.

Rhe battery should have three grounds, one to the body at the radiator support, one to the frame and one to the engine
Also there should be a ground strap at the back of the intake drivers side head that connects to the firewall near the wiper motor

The injectors are powered at red wire with key on and then the pcm triggers or fires them with the ground wire

Sorry your truck is being a pita!!! Test fuel psi
It could be a fuel pressure issue that is still there because the rail is still not right?

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Now you need a proper fuel rail with proper regulator( damper in your case)

If you used the return style rail with regulator modified to returnless, it might be " regulating " return fuel pressure which is 43 psi or so. Your truck needs 60+ psi for the injectors to spray correctly. But you are on it. Good job
 






I'm glad you're on the right track and it's running again. No laughter from me, this is how many of us learn, nobody is perfect. You got it, that's what matters. Also explains why you had ignition spark and it wouldn't run on starting fluid. Amazing odds it decided to give up after getting the exhaust work done.
 






I'm glad you're on the right track and it's running again. No laughter from me, this is how many of us learn, nobody is perfect. You got it, that's what matters. Also explains why you had ignition spark and it wouldn't run on starting fluid. Amazing odds it decided to give up after getting the exhaust work done.
Yeah but the downside of it is it's it's running like crap right now I went back to the right in the original fuel rail that I had welded + it's spraying some fuel out of that weld and since it's a tad bit shorter on that right Bank it doesn't want a seat on the number one injector good enough so it leaks out of there also. I'm going to get a new fuel rail I'm going to end up getting a EGR put that back in I'm going to change out the injectors + it should be good to go after that because right now as it is I am driving a ****ing snail of a rig and it's fouling plugs like lickety split so tell me fellas is there a way I can blow out the burnt feel that's in the cylinders? remove all the plugs and just crank it that should blow things out good enough yes? let me know if that's a crazy idea or not or let me know also is there something I can put an additive or something in the motor that will help that out thanks again guys
 






She’s running!!!! Nice

I’ll ship you a fuel proper fuel rail!!

So were they the wrong plugs? Or just get damaged during install?

What a relief. Now just gotta get the fuel system correct and I bet she’s back to her old self

You have learned a lot about your v8 rig! Sometimes the world works in strange ways, but patience pays off!!!
 






She’s running!!!! Nice

I’ll ship you a fuel proper fuel rail!!

So were they the wrong plugs? Or just get damaged during install?

What a relief. Now just gotta get the fuel system correct and I bet she’s back to her old self

You have learned a lot about your v8 rig! Sometimes the world works in strange ways, but patience pays off!!!
Yes you are correct sir. I have learned a lot about my rig and she's running but rough. what I did was I after I got her running took her for a little spin it wasn't good. when I got back I pulled the plugs and they were fouled the new plugs. so it was showing me signs of just a real Rich mix so I wire brushed all the plugs put them back in took the fuel rail off again the one I got did some more welding on the other one put it back in + had a couple leaks at the weld + since it was a tad bit shorter on the right Bank it wasn't wanting to seat on the number one injector. so it was leaking there also. took it for another drive and it was worse so where I'm at now is first of all I want to remove all the plugs and crank that motor and try and blow out soot burn fuel I mean that's what's in there I believe now please tell me if I'm wrong in doing that because I might **** something up or what have you but I asked some of the other guys if they know of an additive or something that I can clean everything out with anyway I am going to take you up on that fuel rail and I will pay what I got to pay as far as shipping and what not I just need to have you send it to another address because I'm not at that one address that I gave you anymore. and then I'm going to clean the plugs again I'm going to reinstall EGR, vacuum lines I'm going to buy a new mfs install that and then I'm going to get new injectors also, the correct ones. I will get you the address that I need you to send that to here in the next hour. and listen my man, I lost my best friend of 50 years during all of this and that was really hard to take. he was a car guy new Chevy motors in and out taught me everything I know about wrenching on rigs so when I found out the next day after we ordered the PCM that he had passed that was a big blow and I'm still trying to wrap my head around it, but you stepped in + you played his role, brother. my friend Jeff would always tell me what I needed to hear not what I wanted to hear. well, Fortune, you took his place you stepped in and you told me what I needed to hear definitely not what I wanted to hear lol. I appreciate you immensely. +I hope we get a meet someday. I like surrounding myself with people of knowledge people that are real and they're not going to bullshit you + you epitomize that + to all the rest of the guys that put in their two cents, Josh p turtle and the other dude with all his ex's I thank you guys for your input and yes, Fortunes right, I learned a lot. even patience believe it or not LOL I only had to go out in the street a couple times to get tools that I somehow let go of in a throwing motion. 😐 I could literally rebuild my entire motor on this rig now so maybe it was meant to be. last thing I want to say is, "Its a ****ing Crankshaft Sensor, not a Crankshaft Positioning sensor you dumb *************!!!" "All you're doing is confusing the parts guy." let's be honest, at your local O'Reilly's AutoZone what not, those parts guys are already ****ing confused.😉😎🛠️🏁🇺🇸

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Exactly, they are already just keyboard Jockies, can only find parts if the computer says what to grab

Yes you can pull the plugs, pull the fuel pump
Relay and crank away to clear the cylinders

I drive through Wyoming all the time
We are Colorado natives that moved to north Idaho in 2017

I will gather some parts and send you a fuel rail, I have an extra or two…

Good plan to fix the fuel rail,
Re install the egr and get the vacuum all sorted
Your injectors are likely fine, but a good reman set is also cheap enough
You want 98-01 5.0 Explorer
Make sure you pick a seller with good reviews, I have had two injectors bad right out of the box from eBay reman dudes
Email me the correct shipping address

I’m so happy she is on the mend! I do this to give back for all the help I have gotten over the years and to try and save these trucks… my fords have always been there to get me through some tough ****.. when you need them the most

Good things happen to good people
Sorry about your buddy
I don’t look forward to losing friends as we get older it happens!! A bunch of my
Closest friends here in Idaho are 20 years my senior!! Not easy to get old
 






Exactly, they are already just keyboard Jockies, can only find parts if the computer says what to grab

Yes you can pull the plugs, pull the fuel pump
Relay and crank away to clear the cylinders

I drive through Wyoming all the time
We are Colorado natives that moved to north Idaho in 2017

I will gather some parts and send you a fuel rail, I have an extra or two…

Good plan to fix the fuel rail,
Re install the egr and get the vacuum all sorted
Your injectors are likely fine, but a good reman set is also cheap enough
You want 98-01 5.0 Explorer
Make sure you pick a seller with good reviews, I have had two injectors bad right out of the box from eBay reman dudes
Email me the correct shipping address

I’m so happy she is on the mend! I do this to give back for all the help I have gotten over the years and to try and save these trucks… my fords have always been there to get me through some tough ****.. when you need them the most

Good things happen to good people
Sorry about your buddy
I don’t look forward to losing friends as we get older it happens!! A bunch of my
Closest friends here in Idaho are 20 years my senior!! Not easy to get old
hey Fortune, I'm going to give you my address right now + that would be 2844 Summers Lane Klamath Falls Oregon 97603 and I'd be willing to ship back that return fuel rail that I picked up at the wreckers it's fully intact in great shape I don't know if you could use it or not but might as well replace what you're giving me with something close anyway. again thanks a lot and thank you for the information on clearing the cylinders and let me know if you want that fuel return fuel rail. thanks again.
 






So this truck is starting and running but not running well

The pcm has thrown about 100 codes

I searched my inventory and even though I have 6 spare 5.0 fuel rails… they are all for return fuel!!! So I was unable to send him a good fuel rail

Last I hear he was going to try his old pcm
I told him to make sure it matches with the current key and pats module

Have not heard anything in a week or so I figured I would bump this thread


This could be a fuel issue this whole time
He needs a returnless fuel rail to match the pump in his tank and this would also give him a pressure port for proper testing of the returnless system and the required 64 psi

Fun times

Happy Easter! Go avalanche
that is all

IMG_4977.jpeg
 






P1747 = Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit

The P0750 code indicates a problem with the shift solenoid "A" circuit in an automatic transmission

P0755 is same for shift solenoid b
P0743 is tcc Solenoid circuit issue

1451 is evap system code not worried as this is a 5.0 pcm in a ranger

The P0135 code in a Ford indicates a problem with the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heater circuit for Bank 1, Sensor 1

The P0141 code in a Ford indicates an O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction for Bank 1, Sensor 2

The P0155 code in a Ford vehicle indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor heater circuit on Bank 2, Sensor 1.

The P0161 code indicates a malfunction in the heater circuit of the oxygen sensor located downstream (after the catalytic converter) on Bank 2, Sensor 2


To me it looks like your engine to transmission harness is not plugged in
All trans and 02 sensor codes so far

All of those wires travel through the same square plug c116. On a 5.0 explorer it’s mounted side of the trans near the dtrs
 






P1747 = Pressure Control Solenoid A Short Circuit

The P0750 code indicates a problem with the shift solenoid "A" circuit in an automatic transmission

P0755 is same for shift solenoid b
P0743 is tcc Solenoid circuit issue

1451 is evap system code not worried as this is a 5.0 pcm in a ranger

The P0135 code in a Ford indicates a problem with the heated oxygen sensor (HO2S) heater circuit for Bank 1, Sensor 1

The P0141 code in a Ford indicates an O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction for Bank 1, Sensor 2

The P0155 code in a Ford vehicle indicates a problem with the oxygen sensor heater circuit on Bank 2, Sensor 1.

The P0161 code indicates a malfunction in the heater circuit of the oxygen sensor located downstream (after the catalytic converter) on Bank 2, Sensor 2


To me it looks like your engine to transmission harness is not plugged in
All trans and 02 sensor codes so far

All of those wires travel through the same square plug c116. On a 5.0 explorer it’s mounted side of the trans near the dtrs
some grade A troubleshooting here...
 






So this truck is starting and running but not running well

The pcm has thrown about 100 codes

I searched my inventory and even though I have 6 spare 5.0 fuel rails… they are all for return fuel!!! So I was unable to send him a good fuel rail

Last I hear he was going to try his old pcm
I told him to make sure it matches with the current key and pats module

Have not heard anything in a week or so I figured I would bump this thread


This could be a fuel issue this whole time
He needs a returnless fuel rail to match the pump in his tank and this would also give him a pressure port for proper testing of the returnless system and the required 64 psi

Fun times

Happy Easter! Go avalanche
that is all

View attachment 464022
I'm here I'm back I'm sitting in my Explorer right now and it's idling kind of idling a little bit high but it's not missing. I have found out that the O2 sensor for the right Bank was grounding out on the exhaust. I'm not going to get into who's at fault on that one I'm just going to continue on. now the problem I got now is an idle spine starts right up I totally welded that fuel rail airtight not leaking any fuel obviously I'm getting fuel and getting the right amount of fuel I did a noid test on my injector connectors and they all checked out good I started it up once I got **** put back together + pretty much a couple turns started right up + didn't have that missing sound that tick or anything like that so I thought well this is a good sign it was idling high put it in reverse backed out fine went to go put it and drive and then it tried to stall on me it doesn't want to doesn't want to go forward doesn't want to accelerate at all so I brought it back into my driveway + I pulled a couple sensors the mass fuel or the mass the ma whatever that ****ing mass air sensor whatever pulled that and the truck started to run bad plugged it back in so I pulled the the air assist or that whatever that sensor is on top of the intake for conducting the flow of air anyway I pulled that sensor started to run bad plugged it back in grands I went ahead and pulled the throttle positioning sensor and I had no change in idle or what not now granted I wasn't driving when I pulled that was the first part that I changed out when my truck started to run bad could it be a bad throttle positioning sensor would that have an effect at idle. I'm not going to stop until this thing is running like it was and I know and it can again. anyway that's where I'm at I got a problem with going forward in drive throttle it's just really sluggish like extremely sluggish and wants to die joe ernie words of wisdom would be appreciated. and Jamie, I'm not sure if those codes were were being thrown up from the old rig that that computer was in because it's a rebuilt computer or refurbished computer joe I'm not so sure about those codes but anyway here I am and here I sit I appreciate you guys wholeheartedly that's no ****. 😎
 






I'm here I'm back I'm sitting in my Explorer right now and it's idling kind of idling a little bit high but it's not missing. I have found out that the O2 sensor for the right Bank was grounding out on the exhaust. I'm not going to get into who's at fault on that one I'm just going to continue on. now the problem I got now is an idle spine starts right up I totally welded that fuel rail airtight not leaking any fuel obviously I'm getting fuel and getting the right amount of fuel I did a noid test on my injector connectors and they all checked out good I started it up once I got **** put back together + pretty much a couple turns started right up + didn't have that missing sound that tick or anything like that so I thought well this is a good sign it was idling high put it in reverse backed out fine went to go put it and drive and then it tried to stall on me it doesn't want to doesn't want to go forward doesn't want to accelerate at all so I brought it back into my driveway + I pulled a couple sensors the mass fuel or the mass the ma whatever that ****ing mass air sensor whatever pulled that and the truck started to run bad plugged it back in so I pulled the the air assist or that whatever that sensor is on top of the intake for conducting the flow of air anyway I pulled that sensor started to run bad plugged it back in grands I went ahead and pulled the throttle positioning sensor and I had no change in idle or what not now granted I wasn't driving when I pulled that was the first part that I changed out when my truck started to run bad could it be a bad throttle positioning sensor would that have an effect at idle. I'm not going to stop until this thing is running like it was and I know and it can again. anyway that's where I'm at I got a problem with going forward in drive throttle it's just really sluggish like extremely sluggish and wants to die joe ernie words of wisdom would be appreciated. and Jamie, I'm not sure if those codes were were being thrown up from the old rig that that computer was in because it's a rebuilt computer or refurbished computer joe I'm not so sure about those codes but anyway here I am and here I sit I appreciate you guys wholeheartedly that's no ****. 😎
well I tried to put it in drive again and did the same thing and then I parked it and revved the throttle a couple times and turned it off and turned it back on and it started but then it had to kind of had that missing sound like it's fouling plugs again is what it is. went to the power distribution box pulled that fuse and it was blown again I ****ing don't ****ing know I just know that I am so ****ing over this......
 






well I tried to put it in drive again and did the same thing and then I parked it and revved the throttle a couple times and turned it off and turned it back on and it started but then it had to kind of had that missing sound like it's fouling plugs again is what it is. went to the power distribution box pulled that fuse and it was blown again I ****ing don't ****ing know I just know that I am so ****ing over this......
I am going to end this thread and I am going to start a new one and take it from my latest problem. Thanks for all the help I'll see you guys on the other side. A new adventure awaits........This is me trying to hold it together:confused:
 






You can do it! Looking forward to new thread ….
Scared a little… but still I love a challenge
 






@410Fortune Is he having a fuel pressure issue that goes along with what mine and your latest topic is related too?
 






Maybe!
Fuel rail and injectors
Must be correct for your fuel system
 






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